Electrical Drain

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AbnMP13

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I know you said your not electrically inclined, however, an EASY test to check a battery drain is to take a DVOM and set it to AMPs and attach one side to your battery ground and one side to your vehicle ground, then disconnect the ground from the battery and monitor the amperage. Anything over .030 amps is a giveaway to a parasitic drain.

Then you simply pull fuses until the amperage comes down, the fuse you pull that lowers the amperage is the circuit with your problem. Then just inspect that circuit.


Where is the connector when you disconnect the ground from the battery?


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Rear camera connector (near spare tire underneath): make sure no water in connector
Rear camera: do you see dirt/water or dried water spots in the camera lens?
brake shift interlock: do you hear a quiet click when pressing the brake pedal engine off?
park detect: does the 'P' in the instrument cluster illuminate EVERY time it is shifted in park?
Ignition cylinder/key in circuit: when the key is inserted and wiggled, do the cluster lights flicker?

Those are the few that come to mind that I have ran across at work.
 
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ESRaptor

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"Where is the connector when you disconnect the ground from the battery?"

Are you asking where is the negative post connector when unhooked?

Rear camera connector (near spare tire underneath): make sure no water in connector
Rear camera: do you see dirt/water or dried water spots in the camera lens?
brake shift interlock: do you hear a quiet click when pressing the brake pedal engine off?
park detect: does the 'P' in the instrument cluster illuminate EVERY time it is shifted in park?
Ignition cylinder/key in circuit: when the key is inserted and wiggled, do the cluster lights flicker?

Those are the few that come to mind that I have ran across at work.



Thanks for the suggestions. I am hoping that a faulty PCM is the issue, but who knows. I didn't get to actually talk to them about what they did, hoping to do that today.
 

AbnMP13

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"Where is the connector when you disconnect the ground from the battery?"

Are you asking where is the negative post connector when unhooked?

.


Yes, I understand you keep one of the test leads on the chassis ground but what about the other?


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Taxman

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Electrical problems are the worst. I had a parasitic drain on my previous Jeep and after a few hours of testing different circuits, I discovered it was the air compressor from my on-board air system. I pulled the fuse and kept it in my glove box. Every time I needed air, I would put the fuse in and use the OBA system. After I was done, I'd put it away again. Never had an issue after that.

I hope you find the culprit here. It could be anything, but the best recommendation here is speed45's "pulling the fuses" test on each circuit. Using a multi-meter is very easy and the instructions are usually very easy to understand, even for non-electrical or non-techy folks.

Good luck.
 

FordService

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Update - They left me a message saying that it took the entire week to figure it out and that it appears to be the PCM. New one will be here on Monday. To be continued...

I'm glad things are progressing, ESRaptor; keep us posted on how the repair goes. If you need me to step in and assist, just give me a shout via PM.

Crystal
 
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ESRaptor

ESRaptor

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Yes, I understand you keep one of the test leads on the chassis ground but what about the other?


Has to be on the positive side. Your meter is put in the loop of current and should be able to see if there is anything drawing by the milliamps reading. My un-professional explanation. Somebody chime in if this is incorrect, please.

Electrical problems are the worst. I had a parasitic drain on my previous Jeep and after a few hours of testing different circuits, I discovered it was the air compressor from my on-board air system. I pulled the fuse and kept it in my glove box. Every time I needed air, I would put the fuse in and use the OBA system. After I was done, I'd put it away again. Never had an issue after that.

I hope you find the culprit here. It could be anything, but the best recommendation here is speed45's "pulling the fuses" test on each circuit. Using a multi-meter is very easy and the instructions are usually very easy to understand, even for non-electrical or non-techy folks.

Good luck.


Yep. PITA. 'Nuff said! Ford is going to have to figure it out.

I'm glad things are progressing, ESRaptor; keep us posted on how the repair goes. If you need me to step in and assist, just give me a shout via PM.

Crystal


Thanks, Crystal!
 

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Battery drain ...
 
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ESRaptor

ESRaptor

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Battery drain ...

Thanks, gDMJoe
 
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ESRaptor

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Found out yesterday it was the BCM, not PCM that was replaced. Hope to be able to go get it this morning.
 

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