GEN 2 anyone running a 170 thermostat?

[Skubik]

Good stuff, in the process of switching oem radiator to an all aluminum 3row unit. Doing a complete flush, replacing hoses and going with 160 thermostat.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

Good stuff, in the process of switching oem radiator to an all aluminum 3row unit. Doing a complete flush, replacing hoses and going with 160 thermostat.

160 is to cold.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

@Old-Raptor-guy,

You probably knowing better than most, where is the point of diminishing returns on this system? Seems ICE are being designed to run hotter and hotter for emissions I assume. However, I mean once the stat is completely open, well, it's open. I have a 180 degree stat that I never installed.

I'd pick the brain of @FordTechOne on the subject of this engine as well.

 

[Skubik]

Hello all! So I didn't update my comment above on the thermostat.
Actually after much research on thermostats and their function I decided to stick with what was already installed in my truck which was a 192 degree. I went with a gates 192 since A: I had no reason to change that, I hadn't had any issues thermostat related, my factory radiator basically took a dive. I saw some videos, read comments, researched a bit and the information on lowering the thermostat temp was all over the place. Basically it could or it may never give you problems going with a lower temp thermostat, not worth messing with in my opinion, seemed like one of those things people do just to do something.
If you do decide to go lower temp it appeared getting the fan setting adjusted to the new thermostat temp was highly advised so they can come on at the new temp.
Got my new hoses in, new Mishimoto 3 row which I hope does better for me than it did for some folks on this forum. Flushed coolant out with distilled water and gonna run it like this for a week or so before draining again and adding the 50/50 mix, it is still mildly orange in there and the distilled water won't cause any issues in fact I think it's running cooler with it. One thing I would like to note is that it took a long time to get all the air out of the system, I mean hours, I didn't put the radiator cap on until absolutely no bubbles were coming up none. Patiently started the truck several times and ran it for 20-30 minutes with the heater at full blast etc..i knew I was good when all the fluid stayed in the radiator and I could take the funnel off and just sit there with the cap off. Truck ran like a dream (I also replaced the entire trans valve body, trans harness, computer, and ofcourse added fresh fluid) seems all my issues are gone now thankfully.
So going back to the radiator stuff, I wonder if some of the issues I read on here were due to not fully purging the system of all air. I read someone was saying their upper radiator hose would get super hard, well I'm no expert but that sounds like pressure buildup. As long as the fluid is coming back up into the funnel and there's any bubbles still coming up there's air and hence pressure will build causing issues with improper cooling and shortening the life of your radiator, hoses, and all other components etc..is my humble non expert opinion. We'll see...like I said I have several Mishimoto radiators in other boosted cars for many years without issues.
Oh And stick to your factory temp thermostat or lower just a tiny bit if you must, in my case I just went from 195 factory to the 192 but my truck is boosted and was tuned with it so I'm just leaving it alone. Want to run cooler? Upgrade to spal fans, aluminum radiator, add fans to your heat exchanger etc..
now the only problem is I'm stuck with a 160 and a 180 thermostat I'll never use ‍

 

[nikhsub1]

...it is still mildly orange in there and the distilled water won't cause any issues in fact I think it's running cooler with it.

The only issue would be corrosion, but a week or so won't be an issue. And yes, cooling systems always run better with pure water, water is one of the best liquids there is for cooling. Coolant has terrible thermal properties, it is used for anti corrosion and to lower the freezing temp, that is it.

 

[Sunchild714]

160 is to cold.

Not sure where you live but good call on not changing the thermostat. I went 170 because I live in the desert and was experiencing overheating in baja in the middle of summer. The 170 solved my problem.

 

[Skubik]

That would make plenty of sense lol
I'm in the DFW area. Hot but not desert hot.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

@Old-Raptor-guy,

You probably knowing better than most, where is the point of diminishing returns on this system? Seems ICE are being designed to run hotter and hotter for emissions I assume. However, I mean once the stat is completely open, well, it's open. I have a 180 degree stat that I never installed.

I'd pick the brain of @FordTechOne on the subject of this engine as well.

Years (like 35) ago I saw a chart that showed. Metal wear vs temp and as the Temp went up the wear went down. It was a curve and started at something like -40 and went up but honestly can't remember how high, 250 or more. It was a chart specifically geared towards engine temp. Anyway after around 200 there was diminished returns on temp vs wear. (this was raw metal on raw metal no oil, piston ring type situation (top two piston rings get very very little oil if bottom ring is doing its job))

So taking thermostat our entirely is a no go (was something I saw a lot 30 years ago)

The biggest issue I know of with running to much temp is aluminum expands more than iron so when I take an engine apart that has been over heated normally there are huge vertical "scuff" marks in the cylinders were the piston has touched the cylinder wall. This to me is because the piston expanded more than the iron block/liner.

And yes engine temps have gotten a lot higher the last 30 years for emissions purposes. (the temps they run 6.7 PSD at are nuts to most people)

The temp listed on a thermostat is when it starts to crack open. Full open is usually 7-8 degrees more. Which makes the factory t-stat full flow about 200.

180 could probably help some who are right on the edge.

160 is told cold for 2 reasons, without tuner check engine light is extremely probable in any ambient air temps. Also heater performance in winter will suffer.

170 seems to be sweet spot but to my knowledge only one company makes the 170 t-stat.

Generally in my honest opinion Ford's have the best HVAC systems. 0 degree day and after 15 minutes the heater can be turned way down, same with A/C on 100 degree day. Same is NOT true with Toyota or Honda. With that any slight performance loss on heater with 170 t-stat will probably not be noticeable by most.

 

[Skubik]

Thank you, that's good information. I remember when people removed thermostats altogether lol, cars were less picky back then I guess.

 

[Old-Raptor-guy]

I will add this
6.7 powerstroke diesel went to steel pistons in 2017. Partly because of power but I believe a lot was due to temps required to meet emissions (they run 30ish degrees hotter that 20 years prior). It is a extremely skeletonized design that only weights a few grams more than previous aluminum piston which again leads me to believe strength wasn't the main issue with aluminum pistons.