All this audio talk but no forscan info

[Guy]

I’m running a 300w Kicker sub in a dynamat wrapped factory enclosure, so I’ve got bass. All 3 mirror vibrating bass. With the speakers Guy recommended, the sound is much improved. I think we could safely take ~50w rms through the new speakers with the right amp, but having factory nav, I am not trying to create more headaches than I solve.

I'm kinda like you here... I'm reading this and my interest is generated.... but without a step by step how-to of someone who did it...

Removing the clipping to a flat unadulterated signal that can be amplified is obviously the best way to go, but i need my nav to work and see this proof of concept in action.

what I am hoping for honestly.... is an aftermarket head unit that retains the stock features and has a quality head unit. alpine does these quite a bit albeit expensive...

 

[smurfslayer]

I would like to find some time to dig into this a little more though.

Think about it- If we were able to update with forscan and put in an aftermarket amp, we could push the <ahem> higher quality speakers to more than half their rating - I think the lowest RMS rating of the speakers for the pioneer a series was ... 50w? that’s double what the factory system would deliver, so we would be pushing more sound, purer sound and the volume would be linear, rather than altered.

OTOH... I’m going to end up with so many power cables running to the battery I’m probably going to have to add a junction box !

if we can splice, leave the factory amp for nav, add an aftermarket amp in for power and signal purity, we would be liking the results.

 

[DrumReaper]

Ok you guys got me a little confused. The signal coming of the factory amp has both NAV + radio?... correct?

Then why wouldn't those wires spliced together and sent to a signal processor work, bypassing the factory amp?

 

[jakeO]

This is info from Dan's link Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades

NAV IS RETAINED


These are on the Sony DSP Harness (Twisted Pair CAT5, should be easy to spot):
Front Left: Yellow (+), Blue (-) (Sony DSP: 7, 17)
Front Right: Violet (+), Brown/Yellow (-) (Sony DSP: 9, 19)
Rear Left: Orange (+), White (-) (Sony DSP: 2, 12)
Rear Right: Green (+), Gray (-) (Sony DSP: 4, 14)

Amp Remote Turn On: Red (Sony DSP - Pin 3)
Note: this remote turn on wire is NOT 12 volts (approx 6 volts)... some amplifiers may require a 12 volt input and may need to convert this output with a third party device. Some sound processors, such as the JBL MS-8, support 4 Volts and higher as a remote turn on voltage so this is not an issue.

UPDATE:
Better remote turn on wire for Push to Start Vehicles:
Connector C3501 - Pin 5 - Brown/Yellow (22 Gauge) - 12 Volt w/ Delayed Accessory Feature
- This wire is going into the 150 Watt AC/DC Power Inverter


For Vehicles With Factory Sony DSP/Amplifier Only:

Needed Wiring Terminal Inserts: Order from FordParts.com, local dealer, etc...
Part Number: DU2Z-14474-CA

I added and soldered two wires to the ACM and APIM Harnesses... These two mono out wires are required if you are disconnecting the Sony Amplifier, previously in use, to use your own amplifiers to the speakers/subwoofer without a Line Output Converter. These two wires reroute the Sync Voice from the APIM, back into the ACM, and out your aftermarket speakers.

Without adding these two wires, there will be no voice on navigation directions and voice commands will not have any feedback to confirm prompts.

It is accomplished by adding two wire terminals to the ACM Harness (Pins 8,21) and soldering them to the Sync wires on the APIM Harness (Pins 3,4).

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 PM ----------

I'm kinda like you here... I'm reading this and my interest is generated.... but without a step by step how-to of someone who did it...

Removing the clipping to a flat unadulterated signal that can be amplified is obviously the best way to go, but i need my nav to work and see this proof of concept in action.

what I am hoping for honestly.... is an aftermarket head unit that retains the stock features and has a quality head unit. alpine does these quite a bit albeit expensive...

You could not do a after market. you would lose too much control of the truck. I have had plenty of people with brand new Kenwoods / alpine. and they all said they wish their HU worked as nice as mine.

 

[smurfslayer]

I haven’t had a chance to read the link, but this is becoming more intriguing.

Guy, what do you reckon for an amp - I would think between 40-50w rms?
Darn... this could end up being another project...

 

[jakeO]

On the cheap GM-D9605 - Pioneer 5-Channel 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier
4 ohms: 75 watts x 4 channels and 350 watts x 1 channel

16-PRX5.550 - Memphis 5-Channel 600W RMS
RMS 4Ω (Watts): 50 x 4 / 200 x 1

PDR-V75 - Alpine 5-Channel 750W RMS Amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4 + 250 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms

 

[khahn73]

(Sorry for posting this question in two threads)

I have the standard Sync3 system that comes with the 801A package and no subwoofer...therefore no Sony amp. I'm doing a pretty serious upgraded system replacing all elements except the factory head unit. I have a Audison Bit Ten DSP, and the plan was to run speaker wire inputs to it. However, I'm worried about the bass roll-off, and don't have a way to compensate for it.

My question is, will this FORScan option help me in any way. Can I get any kind of flat, non-attenuated line level signal from my factory unit without the Sony amp?

 

[jakeO]

Yes by doing this you will have a flat / no bass roll off signal.
look at this link Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades