Eibach Pro-lift springs installed with pics and comments

[Ski4Ever]

Just gotta figure out the whole lower bolt issue as well.

I haven't heard anything about the lower shock bolt needing to be replaced...maybe you misunderstood, and the person you talked to was actually talking about changing out the lower control arm (LCA) bolts for an adjustable cam bolt kit? Having that kit installed allows the castor/camber to be more easily adjusted when the alignment is done.

If that's not what they were talking about, and they're actually talking about the lower shock bolt, that's a new one to me and I'd be interested in hearing more about that.

 

[FrenchRaptor]

I have not heard of the lower shock bolt needing to be replaced either. Had my Eibachs installed with no issues. You may want to verify that they weren’t talking about the cam bolts like “Ski4ever” stated. Good luck

 

[BALLYWOOD007]

Okay sounds good. I've read almost every post and reply and did not come across any mentioning of a lower shock/strut bolt that was required.

I'll call back and ask again specifically what part number was required.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

Just got our hands on a limited amount of Eibach springs!

Eibach Pro Lift Springs 2017-2020 Raptor

 

[Ski4Ever]

For those that have done it before, what is the size of the nut on the lower shock bolt? Is it 1 1/8"? Or is it metric (28mm, maybe)? I don't have the right size socket, and am wondering what I need to buy before I just guess and (inevitably) buy the wrong one!

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

For those that have done it before, what is the size of the nut on the lower shock bolt? Is it 1 1/8"? Or is it metric (28mm, maybe)? I don't have the right size socket, and am wondering what I need to buy before I just guess and (inevitably) buy the wrong one!

1 1/16" socket and 1 3/16" wrench is needed to remove the lower shock bolt.

 

[Ski4Ever]

1 1/16" socket and 1 3/16" wrench is needed to remove the lower shock bolt.

1 1/16" socket and 1 3/16” wrench? I slipped a crescent wrench over the nut and tightened it down so it didn’t move at all and then measured the opening. Near as I can tell I’d need an 1 1/8” socket to go over that. And there’s no way the wrench is 1 3/16” for the bolt head on the front side unless I want the wrench really loose! Maybe ‘19s are different? Here’s a couple pictures showing the crescent wrench opening and the bolt head...

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

1 1/16" socket and 1 3/16” wrench? I slipped a crescent wrench over the nut and tightened it down so it didn’t move at all and then measured the opening. Near as I can tell I’d need an 1 1/8” socket to go over that. And there’s no way the wrench is 1 3/16” for the bolt head on the front side unless I want the wrench really loose! Maybe ‘19s are different? Here’s a couple pictures showing the crescent wrench opening and the bolt head...
View attachment 143049 View attachment 143050

Tape measure on the nut looks to be 1 1/16". And the wrench opening looks to be just slightly larger than 1 1/8 so the next size up would be 1 3/16...unless I'm looking at something incorrectly.

Going off of data I have from a few install guides and those are the numbers I'm seeing. 1 1/16 and 1 3/16.

https://www.addictivedesertdesigns.com/images/ADD 17 Raptor Front Kit Install Guide.pdf

 

[Ski4Ever]

Tape measure on the nut looks to be 1 1/16". And the wrench opening looks to be just slightly larger than 1 1/8 so the next size up would be 1 3/16...unless I'm looking at something incorrectly.

Going off of data I have from a few install guides and those are the numbers I'm seeing. 1 1/16 and 1 3/16.

https://www.addictivedesertdesigns.com/images/ADD 17 Raptor Front Kit Install Guide.pdf

Thanks Nick...I had assumed (incorrectly, apparently) that you would want to use a socket on the nut, not the head of the bolt, as that way you would only be fighting the torque of the nut/bolt combo, not whatever pressure is also there from the sleeve/bushing that is contacting the bolt as it passes through the LCA.

That actually brings up a point...if there is a sleeve/bushing in there that contacts the bolt and stops the bolt from turning, wouldn't that change the overall torque when torquing the bolt down at the end? For example, say that bolt is a really tight fit in the hole, and the torque setting is really low (I don't know, maybe 10 ft lbs). Depending on how tight the fit is, couldn't you actually end up reach the recommended torque by using a torque wrench on the bolt without even having a nut on the back side? I thought I had read somewhere/sometime that you always torque the nut, not the bolt (unless the nut is captive and held in place)? That's why I assumed 1 13/16" socket on the nut side and 1 1/16" wrench on the bolt side. No?

And yes, I know the torque value is actually 406 ft lbs, but I was just trying to ask something by using an example...

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

Thanks Nick...I had assumed (incorrectly, apparently) that you would want to use a socket on the nut, not the head of the bolt, as that way you would only be fighting the torque of the nut/bolt combo, not whatever pressure is also there from the sleeve/bushing that is contacting the bolt as it passes through the LCA.

That actually brings up a point...if there is a sleeve/bushing in there that contacts the bolt and stops the bolt from turning, wouldn't that change the overall torque when torquing the bolt down at the end? For example, say that bolt is a really tight fit in the hole, and the torque setting is really low (I don't know, maybe 10 ft lbs). Depending on how tight the fit is, couldn't you actually end up reach the recommended torque by using a torque wrench on the bolt without even having a nut on the back side? I thought I had read somewhere/sometime that you always torque the nut, not the bolt (unless the nut is captive and held in place)? That's why I assumed 1 13/16" socket on the nut side and 1 1/16" wrench on the bolt side. No?

And yes, I know the torque value is actually 406 ft lbs, but I was just trying to ask something by using an example...

That's not a theory that I'm familiar with. Usually, I just focus on make sure either the nut or the bolt is locked in place and then go about tightening the other end to spec. So that would agree with the first part of your theory that if one side is fully wedged or locked in place, then you could tighten the other side without locking the other.