Check locking differential...

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raptor_qatar

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Hey guys!
I need you guys expertise on this one.
I take my truck off roading about once a week when its winter time, and during the last season i noticed something, i rarely need to lock the differential since most of the stuff im doing does not require that and i have only locked the diff a few times, now here is the issue.
The last time i took my raptor off road i got stuck because of some idiot... so im pretty much stuck in the sand dunes so i decide to engage the locking diff (pull the knob out while on 4H) and i get this message "check locking differential" now im gonna try and solve this and avoid the dealership since im pretty sure the qatar dealership has got to be the worst in the world.

so what might have caused this? I suspect two issues, firstly i made a pretty bad jump i was going at about 170KPH on a steep incline and hit around a 1.5-2 metre jump and the truck kinda landed on its front, it broke the skid plate protection thing that on the very bottom of the stock bumper and when i say broke i mean a pretty big blow i mean the thing did a great job holding up but it had to be replaced.

second thing that might have caused this is that i was doing a burnout i noticed that one wheel was spinning faster than the other. Great idea! Lets try doing a burnout with the diff on, well to say the least it didnt feel like the truck liked what i was doing i felt like the truck couldnt handle it and it made pretty weird clunking noises so that could be it?

what do you guys think?


But whatever you recommend i am differently not taking it to a dealership, last time i took my car there for a brake bad change they ripped my engine belt and bent the hood shut so i wouldnt be able to open it and they removed the factory tune so as soon as i start the car all possible lights turn on and all meters max out including the temp as gas. plus they took 2 months to change a drive shaft, 2 months.
 

Bulletnjm

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I would recomend an off road shop. Got any around you, who do custom builds, i am sure they could figure it out
 
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raptor_qatar

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I would recomend an off road shop. Got any around you, who do custom builds, i am sure they could figure it out

Dude im pretty sure no matter what is wrong with the car the garages are gonna say they want to take the differential down and disassemble it and i really doubt that they can properly put it back together,if i want good proper work im expecting to pay a lot so im just trying to see if this is maybe a common issue or maybe an electronic issue?
has this happened to anyone before?
 

MTF

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You can jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground, rotate one tire the other one will spin in the opposite direction. Listen for any noise.
Turn the ignition on, you don't have to have it running, put it in neutral and pull knob.
Both tires should turn in the same direction. Listen for any noise.
If they don't turn in the same direction check the two wire plug and wires for damage.
I'm not quite sure if there's a fuse but check the manual.
 

PropDr

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The warning is issued by the computer.
The computer does not know anything about the mechanical end of the diff, all it knows is: Lock dement triggered; impulse send to the coil in the diff; feedback not positive; send warning.
As mentioned, most likely: loose connection, broken wire, corroded connection...
 
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You can jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground, rotate one tire the other one will spin in the opposite direction. Listen for any noise.
Turn the ignition on, you don't have to have it running, put it in neutral and pull knob.
Both tires should turn in the same direction. Listen for any noise.
If they don't turn in the same direction check the two wire plug and wires for damage.
I'm not quite sure if there's a fuse but check the manual.

OK, so just to be safe i assume im going to need 2 jack stands and how do i know if its the front or rear diff? would it give a different message if it was the front?

---------- Post added at 05:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:11 AM ----------

The warning is issued by the computer.
The computer does not know anything about the mechanical end of the diff, all it knows is: Lock dement triggered; impulse send to the coil in the diff; feedback not positive; send warning.
As mentioned, most likely: loose connection, broken wire, corroded connection...

I really hope its a lose connection, im not actually with the car right now as im not in the country.
Im going back in a few days, and im diffenetely going to check on the wires but it would make it a lot eaiser if i knew what i was looking for.

Can anyone take a pic of these wires on the truck? Or describe where they would be?
 

CoronaRaptor

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The rear diff is the only locking diff and shame on you for thinking you can do burn outs with the diff locked. Look under the back of the truck, the diff is the long. Round thing between the rear tires, at the center of the diameter of that piece is where your problem is. Good luck!
 

SilverBack

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When you pull the knob out it only locks the rear diff we don't have a locker in the front so whatever is wrong it's with the rear. As for the wires if you look on the upper left hand side (looking at the truck from the rear) of the diff housing their should be a green connector going into the side of the housing just trace the wires as far back as you can my guess is there's something wrong somewhere in that run.
 

MTF

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You only need one jack under the rear diff and chock the front to be safe.

I launch with the rear locked but I also make sure I roll forward a bit to make sure it's fully locked. I do this also when engaging 4x4 before WOT with the Whipple.
I've even had the rear stay locked after pushing the knob back in and had to give her a some slight gas in reverse to unlock.

The warning comes on all the time?
 
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