Stereo Bass fading

[smurfslayer]

No, the speed adjusted volume is a separate function and made no difference on my former sony system as it regards the bass roll off. As @goblues38 stated, there’s a pretty aggressive roll off of the bass sent to the sub and it starts pretty early on, about half volume and by the time you’re in the 20’s out of 30 max, the stock bass is being overwhelmed by the noise coming out of the main speakers, which if it’s stock, is exactly that: poorly mixed noise that sounds close to the song you thought you’d be listening to.

I did find speed adjusted volume worked a little with the windows up, but windows down, you’re not listening to stock stereo over like 45mph, give or take.

NOW, I could see how the OP might have speed adjusted volume set, and possibly experienced the volume going up as the truck increased speed, bass getting reduced etc. so it may be worth checking. Honestly, I never warmed up to speed adjusted volume.

 

[Burnsy]

Maybe, but I thought I turned that off. I think the earlier post hit it on the head. When volume is up, the system automatically compensates to protect the speakers or whatever. Most likely protects vendor from replacing or whatever.

 

[Ellison3]

No, the speed adjusted volume is a separate function and made no difference on my former sony system as it regards the bass roll off. As @goblues38 stated, there’s a pretty aggressive roll off of the bass sent to the sub and it starts pretty early on, about half volume and by the time you’re in the 20’s out of 30 max, the stock bass is being overwhelmed by the noise coming out of the main speakers, which if it’s stock, is exactly that: poorly mixed noise that sounds close to the song you thought you’d be listening to.

I did find speed adjusted volume worked a little with the windows up, but windows down, you’re not listening to stock stereo over like 45mph, give or take.

NOW, I could see how the OP might have speed adjusted volume set, and possibly experienced the volume going up as the truck increased speed, bass getting reduced etc. so it may be worth checking. Honestly, I never warmed up to speed adjusted volume.

Gotcha. Hmmm… not sure what else to tell you. I’ve by-passed my factory amp with a LC2i, Memphis Audio amplifier, and Kicker sub.

Put the sub in the factory enclosure. Packed it with polyfill to give the enclosure a bit more “area” for the sub to use for optimal air movement within it's specified operating parameters.

The LC2i is mounted behind the third row driver side cup holder for easy access in the event an adjustment needs to be made.

The amp is under the third row driver side seat. Controls face toward for easy access. Spacers mounted under seat bolsters to allow power folding of the seat with no interference.

Now I don’t have anymore issues I previously experienced with the weak bass from the factory setup.

 

[smurfslayer]

Gotcha. Hmmm… not sure what else to tell you. I’ve by-passed my factory amp with a LC2i, Memphis Audio amplifier, and Kicker sub.

Put the sub in the factory enclosure. Packed it with polyfill to give the enclosure a bit more “area” for the sub to use for optimal air movement within it's specified operating parameters.

The LC2i is mounted behind the third row driver side cup holder for easy access in the event an adjustment needs to be made.

The amp is under the third row driver side seat. Controls face toward for easy access. Spacers mounted under seat bolsters to allow power folding of the seat with no interference.

Now I don’t have anymore issues I previously experienced with the weak bass from the factory setup.

I’m well past factory sony stuff too. 75w x4 main amp, 450w 10” loaded MTI behind the seat JL audio sub using a DSR1 to sort the signals.

I was just recounting previous experiences for the OP.

 

[Ellison3]

I’m well past factory sony stuff too. 75w x4 main amp, 450w 10” loaded MTI behind the seat JL audio sub using a DSR1 to sort the signals.

I was just recounting previous experiences for the OP.

Nice setup… I wanted to go with a bigger sub (8in loaded in enclosure now) using a custom box for a 10in sub. Every time I’d check the site they were sold out; every website. Guess they may have stopped making it…

https://audiojamonline.com/jl-audio-sb-f-expdel-10w3v3

Need to look at upgrading the door speakers next. You’ve just inspired me smurfslayer.

 

[smurfslayer]

Mobile ToyZ did the behind the seat enclosure for me, I’ve got an install post in the Jen Too audio subform. Tight squeeze, but sure is worth it. Bass hits big for a single 10, and I can roll 75-80, all windows down, still hear music pretty darn clear. It’s definitely worth the effort.

 

[goblues38]

not a fan of the LC2i. It is still hampered by the bass roll of. And it has to fake the sound and restore it. It is a band aid. The only correct way to do it is with the ZEN A2B.

 

[Ellison3]

not a fan of the LC2i. It is still hampered by the bass roll of. And it has to fake the sound and restore it. It is a band aid. The only correct way to do it is with the ZEN A2B.

For my application (2016 Expedition w/ Sony) the ZEN is not available for installation according to its specifications chart. So, I went with what I knew would easily work.

Though it may be a band aid it’s better than that scab I peeled off by yanking out that sorry excuse for a subwoofer, and eliminating the factory amp.

Now you’ve got me curious. Would like to hear a system with the ZEN incorporated in the circuitry.

 

[goblues38]

For my application (2016 Expedition w/ Sony) the ZEN is not available for installation according to its specifications chart. So, I went with what I knew would easily work.

Though it may be a band aid it’s better than that scab I peeled off by yanking out that sorry excuse for a subwoofer, and eliminating the factory amp.

Now you’ve got me curious. Would like to hear a system with the ZEN incorporated in the circuitry.

All good. Thought we were dealing with B&O examples.

In your situation. LC2i is your only choice unless you replace ford radio

The ZEN A2B would have been the holy grail of interface back in my days when I worked in the industry. Getting a digital unchanged signal from the factory headinit that you could then build on was unheard of not too long ago.

 

[Ellison3]

All good. Thought we were dealing with B&O examples.

In your situation. LC2i is your only choice unless you replace ford radio

The ZEN A2B would have been the holy grail of interface back in my days when I worked in the industry. Getting a digital unchanged signal from the factory headinit that you could then build on was unheard of not too long ago.

No, Sir. I wish… I’d grab one of those ZEN’s in a heartbeat if it would work. Thanks for sharing. Maybe I’ll get lucky enough to upgrade.

That’s why I like checking out other forums such as this. I feel you guys have more sport-minded, audiophile, gear-headed guys like myself.

A lot of people on the Expedition forum are family oriented. Maybe a few aforementioned people there, but not nearly as many with the ideas/ information I get here.

For example… Full Race told me their CAC kit doesn’t work on the Expedition. Couldn’t find any adventurous people on the Expedition forum that looked into it. So, I ventured over to the F-150 forum; tons of info, pics, videos, etc.

As you can see from my pics I’ve got the Full Race setup in, and functioning; very well I might add. Fine tuned by Elite Performance and Tune out of Littleton, CO. Whoops, wrong thread. You guys get where I’m going with that rant.

Thanks FRF!!! Don’t tell the Expedition guy’s I said that stuff.