Inverter

[jjjaymmman]

If it is only 150 Watts (and hopefully has an acceptable wave form), use is mainly restricted to computers and A/V equipment. This means that when i replace it with a 230 VAC unit with more wattage, I also have to check and probably replace the 12 Volt DC cabling.

What are you planning on hooking up that **MUST** use 240VAC? Many components have the ability to support both 240 and 110. Just curious, when I lived in germany (220 VAC) i purchased a PS2 and swapped the power board out with a 110. Also all your devices will convert the AC into DC internally for the component to run.

 

[fshol]

What are you planning on hooking up that **MUST** use 240VAC? Many components have the ability to support both 240 and 110. Just curious, when I lived in germany (220 VAC) i purchased a PS2 and swapped the power board out with a 110. Also all your devices will convert the AC into DC internally for the component to run.

You're exactly right, many components also support 110 VAC, unfortunately not all (even more important, not all mine equipment does).
Since i need an inverter with a higher wattage anyway, I will automatically switch to 230 VAC. Will also have to look for a European 230 VAC outlet that fits instead of the US type outlet.

 

[pirate air]

According to the Ford work shop manual, its only rated at 150 watts, if exceeded it will turn off. It shows its location behind the HVAC head beneath the radio. The Body Control Module controls some of the converter timer functions, so I think adding a high wattage unit directly in its place would cause issues with the BCM. I think it would be easiest to leave the factory one intact and just completely wire a whole new higher watt/volt system in.

 

[fshol]

According to the Ford work shop manual, its only rated at 150 watts, if exceeded it will turn off. It shows its location behind the HVAC head beneath the radio. The Body Control Module controls some of the converter timer functions, so I think adding a high wattage unit directly in its place would cause issues with the BCM. I think it would be easiest to leave the factory one intact and just completely wire a whole new higher watt/volt system in.

Thanks for the info, I guess I will go that route to prevent possible problems. Now another question comes up. Why are the inverters always located inside the cab, with the consequence that you have to use relatively heavy, high amperage cabling. What would be aigainst mounting it close to the battery and from there on use relatively light 230 VAC cabling into the cab

 

[pirate air]

Thanks for the info, I guess I will go that route to prevent possible problems. Now another question comes up. Why are the inverters always located inside the cab, with the consequence that you have to use relatively heavy, high amperage cabling. What would be aigainst mounting it close to the battery and from there on use relatively light 230 VAC cabling into the cab

I guess inverters are inside because from the unmodified factory ratings of 150 watts or even 400 watts at 110 volts your only looking at a circuit current of 1.3 to 3.6 amps. The wire gauge doesn't need too be big. I think its really up to you where you want to put the inverter. If your trying to run some really high power consuming stuff I would probably put the inverter out side were it will get good air flow and a place it will stay somewhat dry. I don't see any against that.

 

[fshol]

I guess inverters are inside because from the unmodified factory ratings of 150 watts or even 400 watts at 110 volts your only looking at a circuit current of 1.3 to 3.6 amps. The wire gauge doesn't need too be big. I think its really up to you where you want to put the inverter. If your trying to run some really high power consuming stuff I would probably put the inverter out side were it will get good air flow and a place it will stay somewhat dry. I don't see any against that.

I am looking at the circuit current on the 12 VDC side which is about a factor 10 higher.