Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
RAM TRX - TRX-Forum.com
Bronco Raptor - BroncoRaptorForum.com
Forums
GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 2]
Help with OEM kicker Sub
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="smurfslayer" data-source="post: 1488731" data-attributes="member: 21926"><p><strong>can you share a pic</strong>? The amp should have input power, ground and signal. Signal would be accessory power - like the radio. There’s a signal wire at the rear speaker harness. Even if you use speaker level inputs, sometimes the signal isn’t enough to get the amp going, so the signal connection does it. </p><p></p><p>Amp power and ground should be home runs to the battery to be “most correct”, that said, the kenwood 300w x1 is only 30a and there’s a 10 gauge multi-strand source at the inverter and you could get a good enough chassis ground in the rear of the cab. I would not advocate this on a large amp. I’m mentioning it; I have battery home runs.</p><p></p><p>Amp out should be speaker wires that connect to the sub. </p><p></p><p><strong>Is the Amp powered on when you turn on the accessory or ignition or the radio button</strong> ? There should be an LED power indicator or ‘on’ indicator. Is that on when you turn on the radio? If it’s not, check the signal connection at the amp, see if it has +12v. If not, you can try to feed it to get the amp to turn on and see if the sub resumes working. </p><p></p><p>A point of clarification: You mentioned previously that you checked the FORSCAN values for the stereo; 7 speaker, sub, and that aftermarket sub is selected.</p><p></p><p><strong>did you --change-- any forscan values</strong> for the sync install? </p><p></p><p>you mentioned above you have power at the amp power lug.</p><p></p><p><strong>Do you have a ground</strong> at the amp ground lug? </p><p>The reason I ask is I had a ground cable fray on me, giving me a condition where my amp cut out and stopped. I had ‘ground’ but not enough for the amp. When I re-ran the ground it worked and when I checked the existing ground cable I found the strands had frayed and broken!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="smurfslayer, post: 1488731, member: 21926"] [B]can you share a pic[/B]? The amp should have input power, ground and signal. Signal would be accessory power - like the radio. There’s a signal wire at the rear speaker harness. Even if you use speaker level inputs, sometimes the signal isn’t enough to get the amp going, so the signal connection does it. Amp power and ground should be home runs to the battery to be “most correct”, that said, the kenwood 300w x1 is only 30a and there’s a 10 gauge multi-strand source at the inverter and you could get a good enough chassis ground in the rear of the cab. I would not advocate this on a large amp. I’m mentioning it; I have battery home runs. Amp out should be speaker wires that connect to the sub. [B]Is the Amp powered on when you turn on the accessory or ignition or the radio button[/B] ? There should be an LED power indicator or ‘on’ indicator. Is that on when you turn on the radio? If it’s not, check the signal connection at the amp, see if it has +12v. If not, you can try to feed it to get the amp to turn on and see if the sub resumes working. A point of clarification: You mentioned previously that you checked the FORSCAN values for the stereo; 7 speaker, sub, and that aftermarket sub is selected. [B]did you --change-- any forscan values[/B] for the sync install? you mentioned above you have power at the amp power lug. [B]Do you have a ground[/B] at the amp ground lug? The reason I ask is I had a ground cable fray on me, giving me a condition where my amp cut out and stopped. I had ‘ground’ but not enough for the amp. When I re-ran the ground it worked and when I checked the existing ground cable I found the strands had frayed and broken! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Members online
JBTAC
blazn5667
someday
WhiskeyTangoGTFO
jnall
Aird_outSRT
soheilmos
Finlay150
Telecaster480
DDD2019
bakwaas4eva
HAP
2022 Ruth
jAKe47
ToadSmasher2K1
Dev
pat247
Original Bronco
debauch
Gumby
supratoy
NJ2020
rlawdawg
Frogger22
FossilFuel
Speedhunter
Spike Spiegel
FP_RPTR
Latchkey Kid
Nick@Apollo-Optics
brunorulez
silvertige
tegtitan10
vill
HTXShadow
ReluctantRaptorGuy
MurderedOutSVT
Jepper84
gjw535
Skyfrog
tominphx
Jay_P
decodo
MZRaptor72
RobSpring661
elking
GooseTuned
billw
Dunn
ausmark
... and 21 more.
Forum statistics
Threads
93,198
Posts
1,955,821
Members
56,485
Latest member
bjorn-dpc
Forums
GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 2]
Help with OEM kicker Sub
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top