Help with OEM kicker Sub

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Turbogoat324

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Hey Guys! So my truck came from the factory with the kicker amp/sub. I have an 800A package and I ended up buying the sync 3 upgrade from a site and once I installed the new sync 3 system everything works great except my sub no longer works. I have been troubleshooting with the company and we can’t figure it out. I have made sure the box of kicker sub is checked using forscan and there is power at the connector of the amp attached to the sub. Anyone have any ideas. I’m bummed that I lost my sub and even if anyone knows another way I could even just hook it up a different way so that it’ll work would be awesome! Thanks for any help!
 

smurfslayer

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signal? as in, how is it sensing signal - is it a plug/play, harness connected model, or does the amp require it’s own +12v signal?

you can probably do speaker level inputs if all else fails, but that’s not as ‘clean’.
 

smurfslayer

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you checked the collateral sync / sub values? I don’t have the sheet in front of me, but there’s the option for the aftermarket sub and there are other values for the stereo type, speaker count IIRC.
 
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Turbogoat324

Turbogoat324

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Yup those are all set properly. 7 speaker with kicker sub. Not sure what else it could be.
 
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Turbogoat324

Turbogoat324

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There two large wires which are power and ground. And then a few small wires I’m assuming are signal wires. Do you know if I should see voltage at those wires?
 

The Car Stereo Company

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explain few small wires...... its a dual voice coil subwoofer. so there are 4 wires going to the sub itself. the amp needs signal and power. its most likely a data turn on. i would check pin configurations from the oem plug and the radio
 

smurfslayer

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can you share a pic? The amp should have input power, ground and signal. Signal would be accessory power - like the radio. There’s a signal wire at the rear speaker harness. Even if you use speaker level inputs, sometimes the signal isn’t enough to get the amp going, so the signal connection does it.

Amp power and ground should be home runs to the battery to be “most correct”, that said, the kenwood 300w x1 is only 30a and there’s a 10 gauge multi-strand source at the inverter and you could get a good enough chassis ground in the rear of the cab. I would not advocate this on a large amp. I’m mentioning it; I have battery home runs.

Amp out should be speaker wires that connect to the sub.

Is the Amp powered on when you turn on the accessory or ignition or the radio button ? There should be an LED power indicator or ‘on’ indicator. Is that on when you turn on the radio? If it’s not, check the signal connection at the amp, see if it has +12v. If not, you can try to feed it to get the amp to turn on and see if the sub resumes working.

A point of clarification: You mentioned previously that you checked the FORSCAN values for the stereo; 7 speaker, sub, and that aftermarket sub is selected.

did you --change-- any forscan values for the sync install?

you mentioned above you have power at the amp power lug.

Do you have a ground at the amp ground lug?
The reason I ask is I had a ground cable fray on me, giving me a condition where my amp cut out and stopped. I had ‘ground’ but not enough for the amp. When I re-ran the ground it worked and when I checked the existing ground cable I found the strands had frayed and broken!
 
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Turbogoat324

Turbogoat324

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can you share a pic? The amp should have input power, ground and signal. Signal would be accessory power - like the radio. There’s a signal wire at the rear speaker harness. Even if you use speaker level inputs, sometimes the signal isn’t enough to get the amp going, so the signal connection does it.

Amp power and ground should be home runs to the battery to be “most correct”, that said, the kenwood 300w x1 is only 30a and there’s a 10 gauge multi-strand source at the inverter and you could get a good enough chassis ground in the rear of the cab. I would not advocate this on a large amp. I’m mentioning it; I have battery home runs.

Amp out should be speaker wires that connect to the sub.

Is the Amp powered on when you turn on the accessory or ignition or the radio button ? There should be an LED power indicator or ‘on’ indicator. Is that on when you turn on the radio? If it’s not, check the signal connection at the amp, see if it has +12v. If not, you can try to feed it to get the amp to turn on and see if the sub resumes working.

A point of clarification: You mentioned previously that you checked the FORSCAN values for the stereo; 7 speaker, sub, and that aftermarket sub is selected.

did you --change-- any forscan values for the sync install?

you mentioned above you have power at the amp power lug.

Do you have a ground at the amp ground lug?
The reason I ask is I had a ground cable fray on me, giving me a condition where my amp cut out and stopped. I had ‘ground’ but not enough for the amp. When I re-ran the ground it worked and when I checked the existing ground cable I found the strands had frayed and broken!


Absolutely I'll take a picture! Thanks for the help!
 
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