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6.2L spark plug change - tips and tricks
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<blockquote data-quote="allinon72" data-source="post: 1365381" data-attributes="member: 34072"><p>Just completed replacement of all 16 plugs - thought I'd add some additional information besides the standard DIY threads that already exist.</p><p></p><p>First - this is probably not a job you want to tackle if it's your first time changing spark plugs. It can be done, but it's quite rigorous and might make you never want to do spark plugs again <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>The job took me about 3 hours working leisurely. I've done spark plugs on a half dozen different vehicles so I had an idea of what I was getting into. There's really no quick way of doing this job even if everything goes perfect just based on the sheer number of plugs to replace.</p><p></p><p>For the bottom plugs, I jacked up the truck via framerail until the tire was nearly off the ground. This allowed me to stick my whole upper body in the wheel well and rest on the tire. Taking the tires off is not necessary and would probably make things harder. Before starting, I drove around the block to warm the engine (don't get it fully up to temp).</p><p></p><p>You'll want to have a magnetic spark plug swivel socket for this job. It saves a lot of time and headaches. I used Gearwrench part #80546. You'll also want to have a 3" extension, 6" extension, 10" extension, a 3/8" swivel, and a regular 5/8" spark plug socket.</p><p></p><p>In the pic below, I labeled each tool, and here is the combination of sockets/extensions I used to remove each plug (back to front):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]124624[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>D/S Bottom</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">ACD</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">ACD</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">ACD</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">ACD</li> </ul><p>P/S Bottom</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">AC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">AC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BEFC***</li> </ul><p>D/S Top</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BD</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> </ul><p>P/S Top</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BDE</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">BC</li> </ul><p>***The problem child is the p/s bottom front-most plug. This is the one everyone struggles with because it's directly behind the shock tower and there is NOT a lot of room. In fact, you can barely see it. Below is a pic of how you'll have to get to that one (best pic I could get). You just have to play around with it a little bit - it's frustrating but definitely doable.</p><p>[ATTACH]124628[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I preferred to thread the new plugs back in with the regular (non-swivel) spark plug socket, just to reduce the chance of cross threading.</p><p></p><p>The top plugs are easy compared to the bottoms. I started with the bottoms, just because I knew if I got those done, I was home free.</p><p></p><p>If anyone has any other questions, I'd be happy to help.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]124629[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="allinon72, post: 1365381, member: 34072"] Just completed replacement of all 16 plugs - thought I'd add some additional information besides the standard DIY threads that already exist. First - this is probably not a job you want to tackle if it's your first time changing spark plugs. It can be done, but it's quite rigorous and might make you never want to do spark plugs again :D The job took me about 3 hours working leisurely. I've done spark plugs on a half dozen different vehicles so I had an idea of what I was getting into. There's really no quick way of doing this job even if everything goes perfect just based on the sheer number of plugs to replace. For the bottom plugs, I jacked up the truck via framerail until the tire was nearly off the ground. This allowed me to stick my whole upper body in the wheel well and rest on the tire. Taking the tires off is not necessary and would probably make things harder. Before starting, I drove around the block to warm the engine (don't get it fully up to temp). You'll want to have a magnetic spark plug swivel socket for this job. It saves a lot of time and headaches. I used Gearwrench part #80546. You'll also want to have a 3" extension, 6" extension, 10" extension, a 3/8" swivel, and a regular 5/8" spark plug socket. In the pic below, I labeled each tool, and here is the combination of sockets/extensions I used to remove each plug (back to front): [ATTACH]124624[/ATTACH] D/S Bottom [LIST] [*]ACD [*]ACD [*]ACD [*]ACD [/LIST] P/S Bottom [LIST] [*]AC [*]AC [*]BC [*]BEFC*** [/LIST] D/S Top [LIST] [*]BD [*]BC [*]BC [*]BC [/LIST] P/S Top [LIST] [*]BDE [*]BC [*]BC [*]BC [/LIST] ***The problem child is the p/s bottom front-most plug. This is the one everyone struggles with because it's directly behind the shock tower and there is NOT a lot of room. In fact, you can barely see it. Below is a pic of how you'll have to get to that one (best pic I could get). You just have to play around with it a little bit - it's frustrating but definitely doable. [ATTACH]124628[/ATTACH] I preferred to thread the new plugs back in with the regular (non-swivel) spark plug socket, just to reduce the chance of cross threading. The top plugs are easy compared to the bottoms. I started with the bottoms, just because I knew if I got those done, I was home free. If anyone has any other questions, I'd be happy to help. [ATTACH]124629[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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6.2L spark plug change - tips and tricks
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