O2 Sensor Part Numbers Gen 1

[MTF]

Went to do a new scan tonight and before scanning I tried to start it and "click-click" typical dead battery sound. Went to get a new one and for S&G asked to test the old one. Hooked it up and according to them, it was fine. Full charge and close to the original specs.....so the mystery deepens. And FWIW, terminals like the battery and my truck, nice and clean. Now wondering if it's a burnt out fuse or relay. Maybe shit wire?? This all started the day after a week in long term airport parking if that makes a difference or throws a red flag. Very odd

You need to check the connections at the starter, even if it looks ok, remove the nut separate the wire terminals and wire brush everything with a brass or stainless-steel brush. Then get a battery terminal protection spray and spray it up.
I get the whole battery connection cleanup kit with the pads.
Remove battery connections before going down there.

 

[MTF]

Check fuse 27?

Fuse 27 is only for the fuel pump, it would have nothing to do with the starter.

 

[MTF]

Tasca Parts lists 1 o2 sensor and says "front, rear, left, right" while other places call out different upstream/downstream part numbers. Local Ford dealer wont give out part numbers.

Did you use the link I posted, there are the two fronts (lelft and right) and one rear (left) but I believe the rears are the same length.

 

[DCSVT1]

Check fuse 27?

No but i will later this morning (working). Will run through them all while there too.

 

[DCSVT1]

Did you use the link I posted, there are the two fronts (left and right) and one rear (left) but I believe the rears are the same length.

Yes i did. The 2 rears are the same # and the 2 fronts are different. BUT apparently that's not the main issue. Everybody telling me the O2 sensor shouldn't cause these issues. Maybe i should start a new thread and link this to it. Need to get underneath and take a look at wires and such.

 

[DCSVT1]

Cleaned the battery posts, put it back in and it turned over but no start. Rescanned and am now getting "P1636" & "P2107" which point to the PCM and would make sense to all that's going on.
Any chance it's a relay or fuse???

i miss my Ford EXP (first car) that had no brain....no balls either but if something broke it was obvious.

 

[FordTechOne]

Cleaned the battery posts, put it back in and it turned over but no start. Rescanned and am now getting "P1636" & "P2107" which point to the PCM and would make sense to all that's going on.
Any chance it's a relay or fuse???

i miss my Ford EXP (first car) that had no brain....no balls either but if something broke it was obvious.

P1636 is an internal PCM communication error, but that does not automatically condemn the PCM. Same with P2107, that indicates a fault with the PCM throttle actuator processor, but a faulty throttle body or damaged throttle control circuits can also induce that DTC. You can try disconnecting the throttle body and re-run the self test; if P2107 clears, that points to a throttle body issue.

 

[DCSVT1]

I finally threw my hands up, surrendered and had it towed to Ford. I WAS going to get a PCM from Napa but Ford parts Dept sells them for LESS than NAPA, AND they're blank so they need to be programed at Ford so either way it needed to be towed, so I gave in.
GLAD I DID!!! Problem was the wiring harness coming off the PCM and going behind the motor. The plastic clips holding it to the valve cover failed due to age, dropping the harness onto the header. SO, the first wire to melt was (guessing) the O2 sensor triggering the check engine light. Then over the next couple of weeks more and more wires melted causing the series of issues. The nail in the coffin was our hour drive from AC to home which really cooked them leading to the next day limp mode trip home from the corner store and then "click" nothing. Ford said 10 wires or so had melted including the TB, Trans Shift and a few others which were probably grounding out, and some were just not connected anymore. They fixed all the wires, had to reprogram everything and after a VERY hefty bill, It's alive and i'm back on the road!!! Expensive as it was, i consider myself lucky that there wasn't a fire. I want to tank everybody for trying to help me figure this out and hopefully i wont need your help ever again (you know what i mean! ) ALSO, Gen 1 owners check that harness coming off the PCM going down behind the motor. Maybe add a couple zip ties to it just because they cost $0.10 vs $1500!!. thanks again!