O2 Sensor Part Numbers Gen 1

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DCSVT1

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Hello all. I got a check engine light a couple weeks ago, ran the scanner and got O2 Sensor fault. Didn't think muck of it, but this past weekend I got stuck at the store when it wouldn't restart. After several tries I got it fired up but had to drive home in limp mode. Luckily it was only a couple miles. Trying to find the part numbers for the upstream and downstream O2 Sensors so I can order them. Charged the battery today ant it started out of limp mode but doesn't sound right so I just moved it to the garage and won't drive it until I figure out what's wrong. Thanks
 

MTF

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What is the error code number or numbers you're getting?
What year is the truck?
Any mods?
Why did you have to charge the battery?
I'm asking because, if the battery is old and/or weak, I would start with a fresh battery. Weird things happen when the battery is no longer any good.
I'm not saying a new battery will fix the O2 error code, but it will help in chasing down codes.
Are any of the codes permeant or are they pending?
The scanner should be able to tell you which O2 and what bank.
Clear the codes if pending (clearing a permeant error code requires three consecutive drive cycles without faults) or re-flashing the PCM.
Then run through a drive cycle or two till the PCM has completed the learning cycle.
 
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DCSVT1

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I will have to rescan it later this morning. I'm not sure my basic/pos scanner will tell me which O2 sensor it is. It's possible, i didn't know there were 4 when i saw the error. It's a 2010, 6.2 with Rouch CAI & Cat Back exhaust. it's got close to 120K so wasn't really surprised when i saw O2 sensor fault, but didn't realize it would cause all this havoc and crawling home @ 15mph. The battery is just over 3 years old so it should be good but will get a fresh one tonight.
On a separate note but possibly related, I've gotten a hard shifts a time or two recently when coming to a stop at the end of my street. It'll "thunk" into gear. I assumed it was just that i didn't let it warm up enough but maybe it's the trans. Will check the fluid as well.
 

MTF

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Just a O2 sensor fault shouldn't cause the truck to go into limp mode.
Something else had to have happened.
When a battery is completely drained it will clear the predictive learned cycle in the PCM and force a new learning cycle.
It's around 50 miles for the fuel trim and up to 300 miles for a full transmission cycle.

As for the battery, 3 years is not bad unless the battery hasn't been properly maintained.
Bad battery connections can be the culprit, check the battery terminals, cables and starter connections for any corrosion.
 
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DCSVT1

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Actually, the battery is over 3-1/2 years old and a nothing special, MAX Wal-Mart battery. Never had an issue with those before so I'll just get a new one. Long trip coming up so I'd feel better with a nice new fresh one. I know that an O2 Sensor is bad so with the milage, I might as well change all 4. That will rule out the simple, and obvious. I've looked at several online parts stores and the O2 sensors all seem to be different from place to place. Some are $30 which seems way to cheap, others are close to $200! Don't mind spending the money, just want the right ones. Only decent part store near me would be Napa. Other than that, it's AutoZone and Advance which i have little faith in getting the right parts from ASSUMING they even have them. It's a bummer because I've only had 1 real problem with this truck and it was under warranty at the time...not so much now.
 

FordTechOne

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A failed O2 sensor will not cause a no start. Chances are you have an issue within the harness that runs from the PCM down behind the engine to the O2 sensors and transmission.

It still won’t hurt to replace the O2 sensors with the year/mileage; Rock Auto sells the original Bosch ones as well as Motorcraft.
 
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DCSVT1

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Tasca Parts lists 1 o2 sensor and says "front, rear, left, right" while other places call out different upstream/downstream part numbers. Local Ford dealer wont give out part numbers.
 
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DCSVT1

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Went to do a new scan tonight and before scanning I tried to start it and "click-click" typical dead battery sound. Went to get a new one and for S&G asked to test the old one. Hooked it up and according to them, it was fine. Full charge and close to the original specs.....so the mystery deepens. And FWIW, terminals like the battery and my truck, nice and clean. Now wondering if it's a burnt out fuse or relay. Maybe shit wire?? This all started the day after a week in long term airport parking if that makes a difference or throws a red flag. Very odd
 
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