Wheel Offset and Weight and effects on handling

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Chayse

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I'm pretty new around here. And I have some questions regarding wheels for the Raptor.

I ordered a 2013 SCrew a couple weeks ago. It will be the first truck I have ever owned. It is the first truck I have ever wanted to own.

When building my truck with the dealer, I initially had the BL wheels on it. Right before they put the order in, I took them out. My thinking was I could get a lighter wheel that I liked cheaper than the factory optional wheel. So, this is where I am. I know the factory wheel weighs about 31.5 lbs ea. it is a 17x8.5 +34 offset. The optional wheels are the same size, but not sure how much they weigh. Reports are they weigh about the same, but no weights to compare. I really like the looks of the Factory option wheel though. I like that style.

To give some background, I currently own a 2011 Subaru STi. Its factory wheels are 18x8.5 with +55 offset and 245 series tires. For the summer, I put aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. They were sized 18x9.5 with +45 offset and 275 series tires. As you can see, I only changed the offset 10mm per side. Granted, the tire and wheel width did increase about an inch total. I can really tell a difference in how the car handles when switching between wheel sets. The wider wheels with the lower offset, really tend to follow the ruts in the road and react over bumps to one side of the car. Switch back to stock and it is not nearly as noticable. I understand that this could happen when making this change. What I don't know is, does the Raptor respond the same way when putting on lower offset wheels? Let's assume that the size will stay the same 17x8.5, possibly 9. I won't go to larger wheels and tires due to weight.

Weight is the enemy of performance. I know, all things being equal, that a lighter wheel will increase the performance of the truck. Unsprung and rotating weight are the worse kinds, and wheels are both. So, as long as they are strong enough, a lighter wheel, is a better wheel.
Methods are a very popular wheel on here. And, they look great on the truck. Nobody seems to have a good weight for them though. They state they are lighter, lighter than what? I was looking at the wheel weight thread, but could not tell if the weights listed for the Methods were the standards, the double standards, or what. I wish more manufacturers would list the weights. I don't want to buy a wheel if it is heavier than the stock ones.

My questions are in relation to wheel offset and the how that affects the handling of the truck. I see most people on here are running wheels that are a 0 offset, stock being +34. How does this affect the steering and the ride of the truck going down the road? Does increasing the scrub radius of the tire that much really adversely affect the handling of the truck?


I know wheels are a very personal thing and they help make your truck "yours". I want the "Holy Grail" though, a wheel that is light weight, looks good and works well with the suspension of the truck. That isn't too much to ask is it?

What offset wheels are you running? And, how do you feel the handling of the truck changed as compared to stock?
 
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Squatting Dog

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On 2011 i ran stock +34 mm wheels.. Which was fine for a daily driver. Sold it for 2012 and wanted wide mud truck stance.. So I went with -12mm wheels and top perch to fit them.. Love the look hate replacing cv axles because of near binding of top perch. Plus it is hell on wheel/hub bearings (currently 4+ week backorder)
I am now playing it safe and going to mid perch, and 0mm offset...

In this lard ass (3 tons) truck in the mud, extra rotational mass is a good thing. Saving couple of pounds of unsprung weight will not turn this trick into a lightning..

-Greg
 

Icecobra

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Ask yourself whats the most important thing frist then whats next, then you compromise, then you ask what now then you compromise, then compromise, then you gat the wheels you really wanted in the first place to make the truck yours.... Like was said a pound here or there is not going to suddenly make a 6,000 pound truck in to a stadium truck.... But being aware of what you want is half the battle... Mine 0 offset and now making tire shop replace them with +18mm The farther out is sticks the worse gas mileage also, not that you buy this truck because of its stellar gas milage....
 

Deinonychus

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I recently replaced the stock 2011 wheels with Method Standards (0 offset).

I wish I had weighed them, but I did hold each. The Method Standards are noticeably lighter (maybe as much a 5 lbs)
 

BlackMamba

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I ran -6 offset for over a year. Liked the look, but at mid perch and full compression the tires dug into the fender flares, which are now held on by zip ties. Hard hits also cracked the fiberglass on one side. Did not want to go to top perch (see posts above), so back to stock wheels. I wish Method made the 17" wheels in +18.
 

Raptor911

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Are there any issues with hard hits running 0 offset?


I ran -6 offset for over a year. Liked the look, but at mid perch and full compression the tires dug into the fender flares, which are now held on by zip ties. Hard hits also cracked the fiberglass on one side. Did not want to go to top perch (see posts above), so back to stock wheels. I wish Method made the 17" wheels in +18.
 

BlackMamba

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I haven't heard any issues from the west coast guys running 0mm offset...

-Greg

I have never seen any complaints either. But based on the width of the rub marks on the inside top of my flares, it would seem that a 6mm move to the positive is not enough. Close, but not enough.

---------- Post added at 12:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 AM ----------

The rim I am looking at puchasing has a +6 offset and is 8.5 wide 5" backspace 17 tall. From all my research I hope these work out with no regrets.

JV - what wheel are you looking at?
 
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