Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
RAM TRX - TRX-Forum.com
Bronco Raptor - BroncoRaptorForum.com
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
I got my Icon bump stops installed
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="DylanICON" data-source="post: 468257" data-attributes="member: 2111"><p>The Raptor frame has a couple of issues that make it difficult to work with. The outside is formed for spring clearance and has very few flat surfaces to work with. Because its boxed gaining access to the inside to securely bolt to and distribute force is difficult. The bigger issue is that because the bump stop is cantilevered over the leaf spring it wants to peal the bracket off the outside of the frame. Just bolting to the outer side surface of the frame would work that surface like the head of a drum, would not be very ridged and would fatigue eventually. So we wrap the bracket down underneath the frame rail to pull from as low as possible to resist pealing the bracket. Now the problem is that there is only one small factory bolt that is not sufficient to handle the shear loads. We could drill more holes but we don't want to do that and the inside of the frame does not have a great place to distribute the nut against. So we now take advantage of the large flat surface on the inside of the frame. The inner bracket half bolts to the outer half in 2 directions: In to prevent pealing the bracket away, and up to hold the outer bracket firmly against the bottom of the frame to transfer the intended bump loads to the chassis. The inner bracket also goes over the top and connects to the outer bracket to firmly hold the top against the frame. The forces are now being placed on strong flat corner sections of the frame. The resistance to pealing the bracket off the frame is now converted to pushing in on the upper outer edge of the frame that is flat, square and strong and the pulling force is on the lower inner edge of the frame that is also flat, square and strong. There are also 2 bolts in through the side of the frame but they are not taking the brunt of the force. They are ensuring that the bracket is held firmly to the odd shape of the frame and are helping the frame stability in the weak formed area.</p><p></p><p>Now we have securely clam shelled the frame and put the forces to strong corner sections and distributed it to flat surfaces. But because the bump stop is cantilevered there is a twisting force created. There are factory cross members just fore and aft of this area and the frame is actually quite robust in twisting strength and would most likely be more than sufficient for 95% of off roaders. But to be thorough we added a cross bar. It has 2 holes per side to resist twisting and also maintains the width of the frame. The billet CNC machined I beam is solid at the ends to prevent crushing under the bolt junction for maximum clamping force. The additional twist resistance from the cross bar goes through the ribbing on the inner bracket to the bottom where the brackets want to pull out but the most direct force path is to pull here directly so we added the tension rods. This competes the force path into primarily push pull forces.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DylanICON, post: 468257, member: 2111"] The Raptor frame has a couple of issues that make it difficult to work with. The outside is formed for spring clearance and has very few flat surfaces to work with. Because its boxed gaining access to the inside to securely bolt to and distribute force is difficult. The bigger issue is that because the bump stop is cantilevered over the leaf spring it wants to peal the bracket off the outside of the frame. Just bolting to the outer side surface of the frame would work that surface like the head of a drum, would not be very ridged and would fatigue eventually. So we wrap the bracket down underneath the frame rail to pull from as low as possible to resist pealing the bracket. Now the problem is that there is only one small factory bolt that is not sufficient to handle the shear loads. We could drill more holes but we don't want to do that and the inside of the frame does not have a great place to distribute the nut against. So we now take advantage of the large flat surface on the inside of the frame. The inner bracket half bolts to the outer half in 2 directions: In to prevent pealing the bracket away, and up to hold the outer bracket firmly against the bottom of the frame to transfer the intended bump loads to the chassis. The inner bracket also goes over the top and connects to the outer bracket to firmly hold the top against the frame. The forces are now being placed on strong flat corner sections of the frame. The resistance to pealing the bracket off the frame is now converted to pushing in on the upper outer edge of the frame that is flat, square and strong and the pulling force is on the lower inner edge of the frame that is also flat, square and strong. There are also 2 bolts in through the side of the frame but they are not taking the brunt of the force. They are ensuring that the bracket is held firmly to the odd shape of the frame and are helping the frame stability in the weak formed area. Now we have securely clam shelled the frame and put the forces to strong corner sections and distributed it to flat surfaces. But because the bump stop is cantilevered there is a twisting force created. There are factory cross members just fore and aft of this area and the frame is actually quite robust in twisting strength and would most likely be more than sufficient for 95% of off roaders. But to be thorough we added a cross bar. It has 2 holes per side to resist twisting and also maintains the width of the frame. The billet CNC machined I beam is solid at the ends to prevent crushing under the bolt junction for maximum clamping force. The additional twist resistance from the cross bar goes through the ribbing on the inner bracket to the bottom where the brackets want to pull out but the most direct force path is to pull here directly so we added the tension rods. This competes the force path into primarily push pull forces. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Members online
Psirus7
someday
KMO
dkllw
elpechedepeche
flyitaway
Lottasap
BadWRP
aostrows
MOMike
alockbox
BushwiickBill
Tonecapone
MZRaptor72
BoostCreep
Kronos2300
taquitos
tonythis
New recaros
kocher93
SeasickLI
GCATX
Granelli
marcus6867
sparklinghat659
Pyro3601
xlover
bakwaas4eva
snt505
stevenstommyboy1
Badboy4fun_wa
787Jet
Cherry Ghost
HuffRanch
cincinnati_kid
warraptor
ToadSmasher2K1
nookss_
jeanco
06z
CineRaptor
Johnny Psyhos
nealhoney
Keith88
FmaxTurboSi
ohgeeh
Ivanabk
BBLV
10SpdsOfFury
jond
... and 10 more.
Forum statistics
Threads
93,370
Posts
1,959,893
Members
56,651
Latest member
Hensch8
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
I got my Icon bump stops installed
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top