Gen 2 - How bad is it to drive with faulty IWE actuator(s)?

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Karkand

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Hey everyone! New to these forums.
I was wondering if anyone could kindly tell me how much "damage" I'm causing to my Raptor by driving on what may be a bad IWE actuator.
Every now and then (maybe once to three times a week) my truck makes a faint grinding noise and has feedback coming through the steering wheel on either
a.) slow deceleration (beginning 25 mph, going down to a complete stop)
b.) while making turns at slow speeds <= 25 mph)
I had my Gen 2 (2020) in the dealership for about 5 days. They did a complete inspection of everything including the IWEs, brakes, CVs, axle, bearings, etc). The issue is that I cannot replicate this issue for the dealer, nor could they replicate the issue the 5 days it was in the shop. I'm beyond frustrated at this point and have decided I've got to let the situation get worse until the noise is consistent and the dealer can target it. I've even caught the truck making the noise and quickly rushed to the dealer, only to have a tech jump in and the truck no longer make the noise. At this point I'm sure the dealer thinks I'm crazy.
The truck seems to stop the issue if I put it into 4A. What it best reminds me of is either hitting a ripple strip at slow speeds, or the noise my previous 15 F-150 XLT had when putting the truck into 4X4 HIGH on drive pavement and trying to turn. My XLT also had a front bearing dry out which was replaced. The noise that made was similar, though it occurred at all speeds. The dealership alleges that the IWE system was checked and nothing was found to be wrong. Truck is only at 21k miles and I believe this issue could be covered under powertrain (in which case I've got a while). Just wanted to know if anyone thinks I may be destroying my truck as I continue to drive it and this issue sporadically occurs. If damage from this issue extends beyond IWEs (assuming this is the problem), I guess the warranty will cover that too.

Sorry for the long post. Really appreciate any feedback or thoughts. Thank you!

Edit - truck is completely stock. Tires have consistently been rotated every 5k miles. 35" BFG KO2s from factory. No uneven wear. Alignment performed approx. 300 miles ago. I'm consistently putting about 400 miles on the truck each week.
 
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smurfslayer

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Welcome to FRF. Pictures, or it’s a prius.
The truck seems to stop the issue if I put it into 4A.

I’ll bet it doesn’t do it when it’s cold either. Because that’s apparently a reprogram Ford did a while back; it locks the hubs until up to temp ...ish.

Have you tried replacing the solenoid? It’s like 7 bucks off amazon. Maybe 9 bucks now, but easy to replace, accessible, inexpensive and is the most common ‘wear’ part in the system as I understand it.

IWE works in that it needs vacuum to keep the truck in 2h, unlocking the front hubs. This way it “fails over” to hubs locked so you can engage 4a, 4h and presumably 4L.

when there is insufficient vacuum you’ll get an incomplete disengagement in 2h. The damage to the IWE hard parts comes in when you don’t do anything to avoid the problem. You’re on here trying not to do that, so, likely you’re not at risk there if it hasn’t been observed for long.

1) 4A. Learn it. Live it. Love it. Be warned, it’s addictive. You can be a lot less judicious with the throttle in 4a and get away with it. This setting works around the issue.
2) pick up a solenoid off amazon or wherever. swap it yourself and see if it goes away.
3) if 2 doesn’t pan out, see #3.

@FordTechOne has forgotten more about the IWE system than most of us here know. He’s also shown a ... slight disdain, shall we say, for poor troubleshooting and workmanship exhibited by some stories told here. I don’t remember exactly but I think someone posted a schematic of the IWE system, it’s pretty darn clever. But, it does have some wear items to keep on top of.

You should be fine in the short term.
 
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Karkand

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I’ll bet it doesn’t do it when it’s cold either. Because that’s apparently a reprogram Ford did a while back; it locks the hubs until up to temp ...ish.
You would be correct. I've noticed that this only occurs on my longer drives. If I make a quick trip to the office or grocery store, there isn't any noise.
Makes sense... the lead tech said he wanted to get the truck flashed and up to date only to find it didn't need it apparently.
Have you tried replacing the solenoid? It’s like 7 bucks off amazon. Maybe 9 bucks now, but easy to replace, accessible, inexpensive and is the most common ‘wear’ part in the system as I understand it.
Didn't take the Amazon route, but rather ordered Ford part FL3Z-7A784-B. I believe this assembly includes the solenoid as well as the check valve. Should have this here and on the truck within the next week if all goes well.
IWE works in that it needs vacuum to keep the truck in 2h, unlocking the front hubs. This way it “fails over” to hubs locked so you can engage 4a, 4h and presumably 4L.

when there is insufficient vacuum you’ll get an incomplete disengagement in 2h. The damage to the IWE hard parts comes in when you don’t do anything to avoid the problem. You’re on here trying not to do that, so, likely you’re not at risk there if it hasn’t been observed for long.
That makes more sense - I had always wondered about the technical reason for switching the truck to 4A/4H/4L to see if the IWE noises stopped!
1) 4A. Learn it. Live it. Love it. Be warned, it’s addictive. You can be a lot less judicious with the throttle in 4a and get away with it. This setting works around the issue.
2) pick up a solenoid off amazon or wherever. swap it yourself and see if it goes away.
3) if 2 doesn’t pan out, see #3.
I will have to experiment more with 4A. I only typically engage it during wet or icy conditions, otherwise I keep it in 2H at all times.
@FordTechOne has forgotten more about the IWE system than most of us here know. He’s also shown a ... slight disdain, shall we say, for poor troubleshooting and workmanship exhibited by some stories told here. I don’t remember exactly but I think someone posted a schematic of the IWE system, it’s pretty darn clever. But, it does have some wear items to keep on top of.

You should be fine in the short term.
Well I am really hoping that its just a simple fix, otherwise I may be it for the long haul given the issue isn't super consistent at the moment!
Welcome to FRF. Pictures, or it’s a prius.
20221214_082716.jpg
Wasn't going to include a photo since it's mostly stock, haha. Can't say I plan to do too much to it considering the issues I had with aftermarket parts on my previous truck.
So far I've only installed a J&L 3.0 oil separator, auto-start-stop eliminator module, ceramic tint, and XPEL PPF (full front).
Looking to install some Rigid Industries (or maybe Baja Designs?) lighting once it gets warmer. Perhaps also the Corsa Xtreme series 3.0 cat-backs since I miss my old ones.

Anyhow thanks very much for the info! I'll get that component installed and see how this plays out!
 

smurfslayer

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I will have to experiment more with 4A. I only typically engage it during wet or icy conditions, otherwise I keep it in 2H at all times.
It’s a huge help when you perform an inarticulate throttle input; pulling out in traffic with a short gap, the rear steps out but the fronts will kick in to keep it sane and more controllable.
It’s addictive.
Wasn't going to include a photo since it's mostly stock, haha
We are a visual bunch here.
So far I've only installed a J&L 3.0 oil separator, auto-start-stop eliminator module, ceramic tint, and XPEL PPF (full front).
Looking to install some Rigid Industries (or maybe Baja Designs?) lighting once it gets warmer. Perhaps also the Corsa Xtreme series 3.0 cat-backs since I miss my old ones.
I have 13 forward facing B/D lights, + 2 rear. You’re sandbagging here.
Meh. on the exhaust. It does nothing for power, does make the truck louder but it’s not really doing much improvement to sound. Plus you run the risk of introducing drone with a lot of the systems and can make the truck less enjoyable to drive long distance. I have the AWE 2fg and it’s a solid 5-10 db louder depending on throttle. I think it sounds good WFO, and maybe as low as 80% throttle at the top of the range but lower down it’s not a better sound. not worse, but different. Lots of $$$ for the effect, especially with cat back.

IMO, get some good, lighter wheels and some tires to enjoy the truck.

Edit to add:
#OneLessprius
 

Bee

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I have the same problem and it's driving me nuts. My write up is almost exactly like yours.

It's a grumble (NOT the rattle can or playing-card-in-a-bicycle-wheel sound others have documented here and youtube). There is some feedback in the wheel. It's only at slow speeds, decel, while turning etc. My only difference is that it does happen on short trips ie stop sign at the end of my street.

Mine started at the end of last winter. But, I got new tires right then and convinced myself it was the tires. I was fine all summer, but have been annoyed by it intermittently for the past two months.

I also went to the dealer. They checked everything, tested vacuum and couldn't replicate it.

I have the COBB ECU/TCM tunes, but those have been installed since before the dealer trip.

I swapped out the solenoid and check valve (which took less than 2 minutes), but it didn't help.

Seems like another member is having a similar issue (IWE question, noise on decel gone in 4wd and worse on brakes)
 

FordTechOne

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I have the same problem and it's driving me nuts. My write up is almost exactly like yours.

It's a grumble (NOT the rattle can or playing-card-in-a-bicycle-wheel sound others have documented here and youtube). There is some feedback in the wheel. It's only at slow speeds, decel, while turning etc. My only difference is that it does happen on short trips ie stop sign at the end of my street.

Mine started at the end of last winter. But, I got new tires right then and convinced myself it was the tires. I was fine all summer, but have been annoyed by it intermittently for the past two months.

I also went to the dealer. They checked everything, tested vacuum and couldn't replicate it.

I have the COBB ECU/TCM tunes, but those have been installed since before the dealer trip.

I swapped out the solenoid and check valve (which took less than 2 minutes), but it didn't help.

Seems like another member is having a similar issue (IWE question, noise on decel gone in 4wd and worse on brakes)
If it only happens in 2WD and goes away in 4WD it’s 99% IWE related. What did the dealer check exactly? They should have documented the diagnostics they performed on the RO; there is a pinpoint test specifically for the this symptom.
 

Old-Raptor-guy

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The wheel hub has a gear, the axle shaft has a gear. The IWE has a collar that connects the two gears to allow power to go to the front tires. I haven't seen any damage to a wheel hub (pretty sure the collar is always connected to the hub).

The sound is the collar not fully engaging the axle gear. Skipping over the gear teeth. The collar for sure is being damaged, but that is no big deal as the collar is part of the IWE. having changed over 100 IWE's I have seen 3 or 4 axles that the gear was extremely damaged and required replacement. Not a huge deal on a regular F150, but on a Raptor that and a lot of $$$$ to the bill.
 

Bee

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They specifically told me they checked vacuum, CVs etc when I picked it up. I guess they didn't document it. If it wasn't documented it didn't happen right?

(I have the Alcon big brake kit. I actually installed that in November because I thought the noise could be the calipers sticking)



IMG_7514.jpgIMG_7513.jpg
 

rschap1

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I need to address one of mine.
Went through all the vacuum lines, solenoid, fittings etc.
Was told that Warn makes a quality replacement (at least for my Gen1- I was told).
May want to check theirs out if getting replaced.
Good luck
 
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