**UPDATE** Bumper is sold. Cobb intercooler and skid plate remain. $1000 for the intercooler and $100 for the skid plate. Local pick up only at this time.
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Agreed. I’ve taken a few hits on shipping because I miss calculated it. And like you said, I’d be weary of sending the intercooler. It’s heavy and can be easily damaged.
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Nope. Not currently. The price it would cost me to ship and pack so it doesn’t get damaged by the shipper would be crazy, and people don’t want to pay that. Sorry.
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Reposting with lower price and to clean up my last thread.
Addictive Desert Designs bolt on front bumper (originally $1750 by itself)
Cobb front mount intercooler (originally $1350)
That’s a total value of $3100 that you’ll be getting for $2000....a huge loss for me.
This is a package...
Yeah, that’s not true. You realize that when you disconnect the battery like you said earlier ( provided you drain all residual power held in the PCM), is clearing the KAM and you’re resetting the tables.
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Called COBB today and they confirmed this. Measured my tires to be sure and the in fact measured 33.2 in diameter. Downloaded a new GPS app and it’s within 1 mph now.
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I had the hard shift from Park/Reverse going in to Drive also. That’s when they changed the control valve because of sticking valves. Haven’t had a problem since with any type of hard shifts.
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Understand. The reason why I mentioned that, is most people when they didn’t come from a Raptor, don’t know the Trans is supposed to skip gears. I don’t particularly like it and i think it’s part of the problem with hard shifts sometimes. If your cruising at slow speed, say driving through a...
Well you obviously have difficulties with reading comprehension. Let’s try this again. The 10r80 transmission that is in the Raptor is programmed to skip gears when able to according to how someone drives. Never did I say anything about burned up clutches being normal. I’ve already had my...
Yup. I was dealing with it until it started slamming/lurching in to gear when going in to drive and finally took it back in. I just looked for the print out and can’t remember where I put it. I’ll keep an eye out for it and send it to you as soon as I find it.
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@b0yd07 I thought I had replied to this thread a while back, but I guess not. I had all of the same symptoms you have with my truck. The dealership reflashed the TCM and PCM and also did multiple transmission relearns with the Ford IDS. Finally they actually looked in to it and pulled the Main...
@COBB Tuning or anyone else. When I loaded the 91 OST map it had my tire size at 33.6 as opposed to 34.4. I changed it and now using GPS to check, it shows the truck is going about 1.5 mph slower than what the speedo says. Anyone experience similar?
Shouldn't matter either way. I did mine when the engine was warm. Just remember, the plugs will probably still be hot and don't cross thread them in there.
Yeah, I called UPR and the guy was telling me all about the ECSS. Luckily, my light hasn’t come back on and haven’t needed it. See MPTs article to explain a KAM reset.
https://www.morepowertuning.com/how-to-idle-relearn
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I looked over the whole system again for the third time. Finally found where the hoses were just barely (1/8”) pulling away from the check valves. Pushed them snugly back together, taped them up real good with electrical tape, and reset the KAM. Haven’t had a CEL since. Guess that’s all it was...
Preferably with stock intake and stock tune, has anyone gotten a P04DB DTC? Truck is a 2017 SCrew with 28,500 miles. The can was great for about 200 miles, then out of no where got the dummy light with that code (crank case vent disconnected). Checked all the connections and PCV valve...
I asked Cobb in the thread already. They said on a few trucks they've thrown a CEL so they were figuring out why and will re-release when they're ready.
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