I'm still running mine. Not bashing screws, I think they make Raptors perform GREAT, but there's not one that I know of that will even come close to performing like my Hellion TT.
I've removed mine.
I'm not sure about the gain because I removed them when I put my TT setup on... But...I'm guessing it makes a notable difference in any forced induction setup. What I can say is that cutouts make a huge difference. I have not checked the difference in whp on a dyno between...
I initially decided on Doug's, but when I got ready to get them on, because of their geometry, there just wasn't enough room to put them where I wanted them to go (installing on a Bassini y-pipe). The Doug's looked solid but were not completely stainless. I could see how the heat might warp them...
I have the Bassani Y-pipe/cat delete on mine. But I've actually altered it by putting in cutouts (TT setup). If you are running an n/a setup, I'm not sure that you'll notice any performance difference with just the y-pipe swap...but it has to be better.
It definitely made a difference on mine...
I may have some...I removed mine so they are probably at the shop unless someone threw them out (possible). If you still need them let me know. I'll just give them to you if you pay to get them shipped.
I upgraded my entire fuel system and run E85 all the time. I have a tune for both the summer and winter version along with a tune for pump gas (all on the fly changeable). I like the setup. It's not cheap and takes some effort. But if you're looking to push engine performance to the limit, E85...
Never driven a Gen 2 but Gen 1's are DOGS. I have two of them. One is heavily modified, and the other has the simple "bolt-on" enhancements only (wife's). It sounds awesome and looks incredible...but it's embarrassing. But...they were never intended to be street cars.
Maybe I'm not understanding your question, but if you're lagging after shifts from 2nd to 3rd, you might try remapping the the 2-3 shiftpoint to a higher rpm. It's a really simple tune change that your tuner can make for you.
One thing you could do is to run it in "Tow/Haul" mode. Basically...
Just another option to address the problem. Before you go spending money on gears and labor, change the shift points in your tune. Ive changed mine to match my power band and it makes a lot of difference.
Octane is all about preventing knock. I would make sure my tune would not knock with the lowest octane I might possibly put in it. Or...if you have to put a tank of lower octane gas through it, keep your foot out of it until you get back to the octane the tune is matched to.
These are very nice....fully custom fabbed. They don't have any on their website or catalog for the 6.2, but they said they've made a few. Unfortunately I can't wait the 5-6 weeks to get one made. Also, never got to the pricing part...I'm guessing they're pricey. I would do it if I had the time...
My wife's Raptor is like that. Kind of unattached to the road. Mine is fine...Stays glued down. She's running M/S tires and I'm running A/T's. I've had mine to 140 (which is WAY to fast for any truck tires) and it still feels solid. Hers is scary over 80....Fortunately she would never drive it...
Why is there so much hate in this forum? This guy has nothing but good intentions...looking to let someone on this site be a part of it. Just because it doesn't fit your application doesn't make it stupid.
Most of the people hating in this forum don't even know what they're talking...
If it came from "salt road" country, I'd probably give the underside a good cleaning ...blow out all the residual salt from the crevices and pockets where it may have collected so its not just living there trying to eat through your undercoat/primer.
It kind of depends on your environment. In particular, those areas that see a lot of snow and therefore a lot of salt on the highway/streets.
I don't actually see much rust in your pics...just normal road grime...Looks about normal to me.
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