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Weak Vacuum Line and grinding noise FIX
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<blockquote data-quote="Mil T" data-source="post: 945932" data-attributes="member: 2727"><p>I explain that line in my orig. post. It goes from the plastic to the rubber line that goes down to the Actuator. It is the vacuum line. The smaller tube on the double rubber line is the vent tube for the actuator. This is the one that you need to extend up into the engine compartment to avoid contamination. it ends at the shock tower. If you look at the plastic vacuum line just before it goes into the double rubber one at the shock tower, there is about an inch that is exposed outside of the protective sleeve. This is the area that usually will break. It sounds like yours is melted. This would definitely show that the heat gets to that portion of the line to make it brittle and that is why it usually break. I have not seen one melted but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen. If it is truly melted shut then that means you are not getting vacuum to the actuator when you shift to 4 wheel drive. Which probably means that your IWE and actuator are engaged all the time. Best way to check that is to lift the truck up in the front. spin the wheel with the engine running. If it turns the axle your IWE is engaged and the vacuum is not working. Do the driver side the same way to see if it is also engaged or if it disconnects on that side when the engine is running. When there is no vacuum the hubs are engaged. I hope I made that clear for you to test. The fix would be very easy by putting a piece of shrink tube that will go over the burnt area or use a piece of vacuum rubber hose to bridge the plastic burnt piece after cutting it out. Let me know how that works for you.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mil T, post: 945932, member: 2727"] I explain that line in my orig. post. It goes from the plastic to the rubber line that goes down to the Actuator. It is the vacuum line. The smaller tube on the double rubber line is the vent tube for the actuator. This is the one that you need to extend up into the engine compartment to avoid contamination. it ends at the shock tower. If you look at the plastic vacuum line just before it goes into the double rubber one at the shock tower, there is about an inch that is exposed outside of the protective sleeve. This is the area that usually will break. It sounds like yours is melted. This would definitely show that the heat gets to that portion of the line to make it brittle and that is why it usually break. I have not seen one melted but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen. If it is truly melted shut then that means you are not getting vacuum to the actuator when you shift to 4 wheel drive. Which probably means that your IWE and actuator are engaged all the time. Best way to check that is to lift the truck up in the front. spin the wheel with the engine running. If it turns the axle your IWE is engaged and the vacuum is not working. Do the driver side the same way to see if it is also engaged or if it disconnects on that side when the engine is running. When there is no vacuum the hubs are engaged. I hope I made that clear for you to test. The fix would be very easy by putting a piece of shrink tube that will go over the burnt area or use a piece of vacuum rubber hose to bridge the plastic burnt piece after cutting it out. Let me know how that works for you. [/QUOTE]
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Weak Vacuum Line and grinding noise FIX
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