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GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
RPG Upper Control Arms and Tie Rods
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<blockquote data-quote="zombiekiller" data-source="post: 1262635" data-attributes="member: 25186"><p>you should be able to get a pretty quiet 39 or 40. If you take a look, nitto makes trail grapplers in a 40. Those tires are pretty quiet for how well they perform off-road. You're gonna have to choose good int he mud vs quiet on the highway. </p><p></p><p>The good news is, with the advent of 39s and 40s being the new "big boy" tire size, you have more options that there have ever been. </p><p></p><p>As for the rear suspension setup, you'll hear many many many people state that with deavers and a bypass rack, plus some limit straps, it is REALLY hard to find the limit of the truck before you get scared. </p><p></p><p>If you're going to link the truck, it is a good idea to consider an internal cage. ( running a caged vehicle, as you know, on the street has its own challenges, namely not wanting to split your head on chromoly tubing should you be in an accident. </p><p></p><p>My daily routine doesn't warrant strapping a helmet on to protect me from my own roll cage, thus no caged road vehicles beyond my hotrod. </p><p></p><p>I absolutely get the frustration with the mud and rock crawling guys/shops when trying to use someone local to help with the raptor. I drive to Dallas to see TMX when I need things done beyond my personal abilities. TMX can touch my truck. I can touch my truck. I haven't met anyone else between New Orleans and Dallas that I would let touch my truck. </p><p></p><p>I grew up on hot rods, then caught the jeep bug, then went to drag racing, then road racing and now i'm fascinated by desert/high speed off-road racing. </p><p></p><p>I would liken the rear suspension setup decision to the difference between using a Panhard vs a watts link. a watts link will give you all the right axle control without ******** with axle location, but you have to strengthen the center section and axle for it to be tough too. </p><p></p><p>I think you'll find that the additional height from your cradle to facilitate deeper fording capabilities is a wash when compared to going up 3" in the front from coilovers. I also think that once you go with the +3 deaver springs and gauge the difference in body height, it will be negligible. </p><p></p><p>I think you'll be fine with the +10s and 37s once you get the suspension hashed out. </p><p></p><p>If you're feeling froggy, c'mon out to TRR18. I'm sure quite a few people, including myself, would be happy to give you a ride around the course so you can see what suspension setups feel like before you spend big coin on them. </p><p></p><p>I won't have my bypass rack or 3.5s in the rear, and I'm anxiously awaiting RPG's release of their new mid travel kit, but you'll get a sense for how deavers, fox coilovers and 37s behave. </p><p></p><p>I also know that a couple guys running the RPG bolt kits and 40s will be there. Would be a great chance for you to see what I'm rattling on about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zombiekiller, post: 1262635, member: 25186"] you should be able to get a pretty quiet 39 or 40. If you take a look, nitto makes trail grapplers in a 40. Those tires are pretty quiet for how well they perform off-road. You're gonna have to choose good int he mud vs quiet on the highway. The good news is, with the advent of 39s and 40s being the new "big boy" tire size, you have more options that there have ever been. As for the rear suspension setup, you'll hear many many many people state that with deavers and a bypass rack, plus some limit straps, it is REALLY hard to find the limit of the truck before you get scared. If you're going to link the truck, it is a good idea to consider an internal cage. ( running a caged vehicle, as you know, on the street has its own challenges, namely not wanting to split your head on chromoly tubing should you be in an accident. My daily routine doesn't warrant strapping a helmet on to protect me from my own roll cage, thus no caged road vehicles beyond my hotrod. I absolutely get the frustration with the mud and rock crawling guys/shops when trying to use someone local to help with the raptor. I drive to Dallas to see TMX when I need things done beyond my personal abilities. TMX can touch my truck. I can touch my truck. I haven't met anyone else between New Orleans and Dallas that I would let touch my truck. I grew up on hot rods, then caught the jeep bug, then went to drag racing, then road racing and now i'm fascinated by desert/high speed off-road racing. I would liken the rear suspension setup decision to the difference between using a Panhard vs a watts link. a watts link will give you all the right axle control without ******** with axle location, but you have to strengthen the center section and axle for it to be tough too. I think you'll find that the additional height from your cradle to facilitate deeper fording capabilities is a wash when compared to going up 3" in the front from coilovers. I also think that once you go with the +3 deaver springs and gauge the difference in body height, it will be negligible. I think you'll be fine with the +10s and 37s once you get the suspension hashed out. If you're feeling froggy, c'mon out to TRR18. I'm sure quite a few people, including myself, would be happy to give you a ride around the course so you can see what suspension setups feel like before you spend big coin on them. I won't have my bypass rack or 3.5s in the rear, and I'm anxiously awaiting RPG's release of their new mid travel kit, but you'll get a sense for how deavers, fox coilovers and 37s behave. I also know that a couple guys running the RPG bolt kits and 40s will be there. Would be a great chance for you to see what I'm rattling on about. [/QUOTE]
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GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
RPG Upper Control Arms and Tie Rods
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