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Ford Raptor Lighting Modifications Forum [GEN 1]
Raptor wiring project 2.0
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<blockquote data-quote="sj-CHI" data-source="post: 1144189" data-attributes="member: 965"><p>I recently completed a fairly large (by my standards) wiring project on my 2014 Raptor and along the way documented the process, parts, and learnings I went through. </p><p></p><p>This project got started when like many of you I got frustrated with having too few auxiliary switches for the lights and accessories I have on my truck. I also wanted to do some custom wiring features that would take some engineering and lastly my plan was to allow for expandability. </p><p></p><p>I decided on the Bussmann RTMR Fuse and Relay box as the base for my new system. It's a great foundation for fuses and relays that offers lots of expansion and customization. I found a resource online that builds boxes with all the accessory and switch wires ready to go. After receiving the box I ended up tearing it apart and starting from scratch. Nothing against the person that built it, in fact the work was very high quality, I just wanted to do it different and upgrade some of the accessory wires to 10ga. This required me to purchase a bunch of specialized tools and materials to re-build the fuse box. In retrospect I should have built the fuse and relay box myself from the start and I would have saved some money. </p><p></p><p>I developed a wiring plan to accommodate all my accessories (sorry about the rough PowerPoint drawing). </p><p></p><p>1. Front D2s -- clear</p><p>2. Front D2s -- Amber</p><p>3. Front light bar (top)</p><p>4. Front light bar (bottom)</p><p>5. Hood lights (just added these, D-SS Sideshooters)</p><p>6. Rear bumper lights</p><p>7. Rear facing lights above bed (Amber)</p><p>8. Bed cargo lights (new)</p><p>9. Compressor</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87724[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>One of the functions I planned was a strobe feature that would allow me to strobe my front hood lights and rear facing amber lights (above the bed). I wanted to be able to hit a switch that would allow the strobes to fire even if the hood and rear lights were off. Additionally, I wanted the same switch to work if either or both of the lights were on. For this I turned to Able Manufacturing and purchased two of their SHO-ME modules. I got in touch with Able and they helped tweak the wiring to meet my requirements. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87727[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The whole fuse box and various connections needed to be waterproof so I decided to use Metrics’s-Pack 280 connectors. I picked up some good tips from a guy who documented his own build and put a ton of detail into the process (<a href="http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473" target="_blank">DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord</a>). The connectors would allow me to remove the whole Bussman box fairly easily if needed. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87729[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I needed a way to mount the fuse box in the truck. I wanted it under the hood but didn’t want to interfere with any other truck functions and I wanted a clean install that could be removed if needed. I built a mock up of the bracket first in cardboard and then out of wood. My brother in-law had his company turn the wood mock up into a 3D CAD document that could be taken to a local fabricator. He found a shop that could fab the piece out of aluminum and powder coat it for us. The end product is a very clean, strong but lightweight mounting bracket that gets bolted to the battery box. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87730[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87731[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87732[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I finished up the Fuse box build, mounted it to the new bracket and started adding ground busbars and a fuse holder for the master fuse. Note: all the small Metri-pack connectors are crimped, soldered and finished with adhesive lined heat shrink for durability. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87733[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The switch harness and connector for under the hood is completed. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87734[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Early on I decided to use a 6 position switch plate and chose one from Crown Offroad. I like the overhead location for the switches and I was able to source a solid red switch for my strobe function that would fit cleanly in the Crown plate. Finally I needed to find a momentary switch that I could use to change the strobe pattern. Initially I wanted to incorporate that in the red strobe rocker switch (off - on, momentary). Maybe this type of rocker exists but not int the form I wanted. I opted for a small bullet push button that I mounted to the right of the switch plate. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87735[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Finally time to install the whole build in the truck and finish all the connections. I made up 4ga battery cables and ground connections for the frame and negative battery terminal and bolted my setup to the battery box. I taped into the passenger seat fuse box (fuse 34) for a switched power source and dremeled the cover to allow it to all close up. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]87736[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The end product took longer than expected and I know there are cheaper ways to accomplish what I built but I had a plan that I wanted to see through and the challenge was fun! Next project…..</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sj-CHI, post: 1144189, member: 965"] I recently completed a fairly large (by my standards) wiring project on my 2014 Raptor and along the way documented the process, parts, and learnings I went through. This project got started when like many of you I got frustrated with having too few auxiliary switches for the lights and accessories I have on my truck. I also wanted to do some custom wiring features that would take some engineering and lastly my plan was to allow for expandability. I decided on the Bussmann RTMR Fuse and Relay box as the base for my new system. It's a great foundation for fuses and relays that offers lots of expansion and customization. I found a resource online that builds boxes with all the accessory and switch wires ready to go. After receiving the box I ended up tearing it apart and starting from scratch. Nothing against the person that built it, in fact the work was very high quality, I just wanted to do it different and upgrade some of the accessory wires to 10ga. This required me to purchase a bunch of specialized tools and materials to re-build the fuse box. In retrospect I should have built the fuse and relay box myself from the start and I would have saved some money. I developed a wiring plan to accommodate all my accessories (sorry about the rough PowerPoint drawing). 1. Front D2s -- clear 2. Front D2s -- Amber 3. Front light bar (top) 4. Front light bar (bottom) 5. Hood lights (just added these, D-SS Sideshooters) 6. Rear bumper lights 7. Rear facing lights above bed (Amber) 8. Bed cargo lights (new) 9. Compressor [ATTACH]87724.vB[/ATTACH] One of the functions I planned was a strobe feature that would allow me to strobe my front hood lights and rear facing amber lights (above the bed). I wanted to be able to hit a switch that would allow the strobes to fire even if the hood and rear lights were off. Additionally, I wanted the same switch to work if either or both of the lights were on. For this I turned to Able Manufacturing and purchased two of their SHO-ME modules. I got in touch with Able and they helped tweak the wiring to meet my requirements. [ATTACH]87727.vB[/ATTACH] The whole fuse box and various connections needed to be waterproof so I decided to use Metrics’s-Pack 280 connectors. I picked up some good tips from a guy who documented his own build and put a ton of detail into the process ([url=http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473]DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord[/url]). The connectors would allow me to remove the whole Bussman box fairly easily if needed. [ATTACH]87729.vB[/ATTACH] I needed a way to mount the fuse box in the truck. I wanted it under the hood but didn’t want to interfere with any other truck functions and I wanted a clean install that could be removed if needed. I built a mock up of the bracket first in cardboard and then out of wood. My brother in-law had his company turn the wood mock up into a 3D CAD document that could be taken to a local fabricator. He found a shop that could fab the piece out of aluminum and powder coat it for us. The end product is a very clean, strong but lightweight mounting bracket that gets bolted to the battery box. [ATTACH]87730.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]87731.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]87732.vB[/ATTACH] I finished up the Fuse box build, mounted it to the new bracket and started adding ground busbars and a fuse holder for the master fuse. Note: all the small Metri-pack connectors are crimped, soldered and finished with adhesive lined heat shrink for durability. [ATTACH]87733.vB[/ATTACH] The switch harness and connector for under the hood is completed. [ATTACH]87734.vB[/ATTACH] Early on I decided to use a 6 position switch plate and chose one from Crown Offroad. I like the overhead location for the switches and I was able to source a solid red switch for my strobe function that would fit cleanly in the Crown plate. Finally I needed to find a momentary switch that I could use to change the strobe pattern. Initially I wanted to incorporate that in the red strobe rocker switch (off - on, momentary). Maybe this type of rocker exists but not int the form I wanted. I opted for a small bullet push button that I mounted to the right of the switch plate. [ATTACH]87735.vB[/ATTACH] Finally time to install the whole build in the truck and finish all the connections. I made up 4ga battery cables and ground connections for the frame and negative battery terminal and bolted my setup to the battery box. I taped into the passenger seat fuse box (fuse 34) for a switched power source and dremeled the cover to allow it to all close up. [ATTACH]87736.vB[/ATTACH] The end product took longer than expected and I know there are cheaper ways to accomplish what I built but I had a plan that I wanted to see through and the challenge was fun! Next project….. [/QUOTE]
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Ford Raptor Lighting Modifications Forum [GEN 1]
Raptor wiring project 2.0
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