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Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
McIntosh Morel install phase 1
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<blockquote data-quote="mrpink" data-source="post: 1216444" data-attributes="member: 25241"><p><strong>My way of upgrading the factory SONY system</strong></p><p></p><p>Started my complete audio makeover this week.</p><p></p><p>First I wanted to address the subwoofer. I've skipped filling the SONY sub-box will poly-fill (as the properties of that filler wouldn't have any effect on frequencies under 300hz). </p><p></p><p>So I've tried a JL Audio 8W1V3 driver in the SONY box:</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277228[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>It's a direct fit, and a great little subwoofer, articulate, tight, yet warm. Huge improvement, but not enough kick in the chest, so it was gifted to a friend. </p><p></p><p>Instead, I've purchased the EMPTY substage box from HifiSoundConnection:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/2009-2014-Ford-F-150-Super-Cab-Truck-Empty-Kicker-Single-10-Custom-Molded-Sub-Box-Enclosure-SF150S09-EMPTY" target="_blank">https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/2009-2014-Ford-F-150-Super-Cab-Truck-Empty-Kicker-Single-10-Custom-Molded-Sub-Box-Enclosure-SF150S09-EMPTY</a></p><p></p><p>Both the cutout and the bolt-pattern were a direct match for my choice of subwoofer driver, the Morel Elate SW-10.</p><p></p><p>The sub box was internally strengthened with fiberglass, braced with brazilian rosewood, lined with closed cell foam (which is what you need for low-frequencies), externally damped with focal BAM sheets. It was measured for internal liters and modified to precisely match the sealed volume requirement of the Morel SW-10. The sub was wired with Cardas Neutral Reference speaker cable, the lowest resistance litz wire known to mankind.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277229[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>This turned out to be the tightest, deepest and cleanest sub I've ever heard, so this is staying. </p><p>The SW10 is very sensitive (easy to drive) at almost 94db. It is deep, warm, fast, articulate, and clean. </p><p>The SW10 goes down to 14Hz which is remarkable for its size. Here it is under the rear seat:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277230[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Next were the door and pillar speakers, which I've chosen very carefully. </p><p></p><p>For me, speakers have to be timber-accurate (sounding like the real instrument), warm, detailed and punchy. Tweeters must be smooth, non-bright and non-fatiguing even at high volumes. I chose the 5x7 Morel Ultra 572 components for the front doors/A-pillars, and the Ultra Integra 572 coaxials for the rear doors. </p><p></p><p>The INSIDE door cavities were completely lined with Focal BAM acoustic insulation sheets. Rear wave-breakers were installed as well as foam dispersion-rings for proper door-liner coupling. BAM was added to the mounting-side of the door panel (after these pictures were taken), and 1/4" spacers were installed cnc'd also from brazilian rosewood. The MTX and Dynamat were removed and thrown in the garbage.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277231[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277232[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277233[/ATTACH]<span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="font-size: 9px">---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span>While the fiberglass was drying inside the subwoofer-box, I thought I'd utilize the dash-top storage tray.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277234[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I had a dash-top housing custom-made for my McIntosh MPM4000 output meter. I was able to retain the factory center speaker by making a cutout in the top and bottom of the housing exactly over the factory center-speaker so that it can play "through" it. </p><p>(The MPM4000 is only 3.5" deep so there is another 2" of empty space behind it inside the housing for the factory center speaker to play through).</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277235[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277236[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The purpose of the rectangular grille on top (and bottom) is to allow the center speaker to play "through". </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]277237[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The MPM4000 meters the wattage going to the (full-range) coaxials. </p><p></p><p>If I ever switch to dual (left & right) subwoofers, it will meter the subs instead.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mrpink, post: 1216444, member: 25241"] [b]My way of upgrading the factory SONY system[/b] Started my complete audio makeover this week. First I wanted to address the subwoofer. I've skipped filling the SONY sub-box will poly-fill (as the properties of that filler wouldn't have any effect on frequencies under 300hz). So I've tried a JL Audio 8W1V3 driver in the SONY box: [ATTACH=full]277228[/ATTACH] It's a direct fit, and a great little subwoofer, articulate, tight, yet warm. Huge improvement, but not enough kick in the chest, so it was gifted to a friend. Instead, I've purchased the EMPTY substage box from HifiSoundConnection: [url]https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/2009-2014-Ford-F-150-Super-Cab-Truck-Empty-Kicker-Single-10-Custom-Molded-Sub-Box-Enclosure-SF150S09-EMPTY[/url] Both the cutout and the bolt-pattern were a direct match for my choice of subwoofer driver, the Morel Elate SW-10. The sub box was internally strengthened with fiberglass, braced with brazilian rosewood, lined with closed cell foam (which is what you need for low-frequencies), externally damped with focal BAM sheets. It was measured for internal liters and modified to precisely match the sealed volume requirement of the Morel SW-10. The sub was wired with Cardas Neutral Reference speaker cable, the lowest resistance litz wire known to mankind. [ATTACH=full]277229[/ATTACH] This turned out to be the tightest, deepest and cleanest sub I've ever heard, so this is staying. The SW10 is very sensitive (easy to drive) at almost 94db. It is deep, warm, fast, articulate, and clean. The SW10 goes down to 14Hz which is remarkable for its size. Here it is under the rear seat: [ATTACH=full]277230[/ATTACH] Next were the door and pillar speakers, which I've chosen very carefully. For me, speakers have to be timber-accurate (sounding like the real instrument), warm, detailed and punchy. Tweeters must be smooth, non-bright and non-fatiguing even at high volumes. I chose the 5x7 Morel Ultra 572 components for the front doors/A-pillars, and the Ultra Integra 572 coaxials for the rear doors. The INSIDE door cavities were completely lined with Focal BAM acoustic insulation sheets. Rear wave-breakers were installed as well as foam dispersion-rings for proper door-liner coupling. BAM was added to the mounting-side of the door panel (after these pictures were taken), and 1/4" spacers were installed cnc'd also from brazilian rosewood. The MTX and Dynamat were removed and thrown in the garbage. [ATTACH=full]277231[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]277232[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]277233[/ATTACH][COLOR="Red"] [SIZE=1]---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:20 PM ----------[/SIZE] [/COLOR]While the fiberglass was drying inside the subwoofer-box, I thought I'd utilize the dash-top storage tray. [ATTACH=full]277234[/ATTACH] I had a dash-top housing custom-made for my McIntosh MPM4000 output meter. I was able to retain the factory center speaker by making a cutout in the top and bottom of the housing exactly over the factory center-speaker so that it can play "through" it. (The MPM4000 is only 3.5" deep so there is another 2" of empty space behind it inside the housing for the factory center speaker to play through). [ATTACH=full]277235[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]277236[/ATTACH] The purpose of the rectangular grille on top (and bottom) is to allow the center speaker to play "through". [ATTACH=full]277237[/ATTACH] The MPM4000 meters the wattage going to the (full-range) coaxials. If I ever switch to dual (left & right) subwoofers, it will meter the subs instead. [/QUOTE]
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Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
McIntosh Morel install phase 1
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