GEN 2 Baja Designs S2 back up lights install

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Lighting Forum [GEN 2]' started by halogrinder, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. halogrinder

    halogrinder Full Access Member

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    So, we run BD lights on our Ultra4 car we sponsor. Naturally, I'll run them on my Raptor :D

    Lets begin.
    I don't need to tell you WHY you need to run BD, like their moisture barrier, replaceable lenses, fantastic support online and in the pits, and how they truly are the best LED setups IMO you can buy.

    These little S2's make more light then the ching chong 36" light bar on my beater toyota. That speaks volumes.


    Anyways. Back to install time.

    Ford made this little bolt here perfect for these dudes. Unbolt with a T40, slide the bracket in between the metal, and done, son.
    I used a 4mm long ball allen to tighten the one next to the exhaust tip. Home brewer's probably wont have this, and you'll either have to cock it to get an allen on it, then tighten the T40 or something. IDK. This is your problem, not mine :D


    So, the provided wiring harness is cool to use, and it'll reach if you follow the factory harness.
    BD uses weatherpack connections, they are water proof and are easy to use/assemble/work with. You won't have to do anything to modify or make them work.
    Mount the lights, plug them in and route accordingly.
    Zip tie accordingly, especially around the tow hooks and plug connections.
    Double back the extra slack between the wires and zip tie to factory harness near the spare tire.

    So, then I was like "self, pull a tail light housing out so you can find the reverse wire"

    I looked, and the wiring is very small, say 24 gauge. I didn't like that size for both backup lights and the additional load the S2's would be putting on the wire.


    So, I thought "i know where an additional reverse light is.....
    So I'm pointing at it, its the middle stud on the tow plug.
    Easy!
    Pull the tow plug down. pop the plastic trees out of the frame that are attached to the harness to gain room.
     

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  2. halogrinder

    halogrinder Full Access Member

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    I've noted the color for you to poke at :D
    Grey with a brown tracer

    I stripped the factory tape back to gain access, and cut the wire to splice into it.

    Now, I use BMW crimps, naturally because I own a BMW shop. In my opinion they are *THE BEST* way to crimp a wire. The best. They look like Weatherpack or Deutsch connectors ends, and use a special crimper- but lemme tell you, if BMW allows airbag wiring repairs with these, then they are good enough for me.

    In fact, heres a video I made of how to properly crimp these wires.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUBjb_SOTis

    A proper splice, in my opinion is done like this. It keeps the wire from moving, and allows the assembly to be taped back into the harness without a ton of nonsense like a T-tap or something.


    The heat shrink I use is adhesive lined. If anything get adhesive lined heat shrink any time you use it. It really DOES make a difference!


    So, cut the wire, splice 'er in, tape the harness back together again with the factory tape, and you'll only see a red wire run in there. Plug that back in.

    Now, run the ground to where the factory grounds the trailer stuff, and zip tie accordingly.

    Give it a test, and verify it works. Job done!

    Total time for a home brewer: 2-3 hours w/ beer.
    Shop labor time? I'd charge 2 hours.
    Professional shop real time? About an hour.
    Banana scale? 1.

    Questions? LMK
     

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  3. Robtor310

    Robtor310 FRF Addict

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    Cool, thanks for that. Ive been chucking around S2s for a lil bit.

    Do you have pics of the mounting without the lights on?
    Did you run the Pros or the regular ones? Debating on light output, as id mainly use them backing down/setting up a campsite and stuff like that.

    Thanks
     
  4. lottp

    lottp Full Access Member

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    Nice write-up.

    I also decided not to tap into the little taillight harness. Instead, I used a plug-and-play T-connector for the 7-pin plug and tapped into that wiring so I wasn't actually spicing into the factory wiring. It just makes for a clean removal back to factory if I ever wanted to.

    CURT 7-pin plug-and-play T-Connector (P/N: 55384):
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009FJ38Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
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  5. halogrinder

    halogrinder Full Access Member

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    ? do you not see the pic above?
    These were sports. go look at the pics :D


    I didn't want to see a plug, which I'm assuming you have sticking in your connector.

    Worst case scenario, you buy this harness extension which goes from truck to bumper. Its not in the truck's harness.
     
  6. halogrinder

    halogrinder Full Access Member

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    this?
     

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  7. lottp

    lottp Full Access Member

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    The T-connector I used goes under the truck between the spare and bumper, not on the outside of the truck. There is a harness the plugs in back of the connector you see near the license plate. Makes for a clean install that you cannot see without getting up under the truck.
     
  8. Gilligan

    Gilligan FRF Addict

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    I wouldn't bother mounting them that low, they're going to be useless in low visibility. Mount them in the bed
     
  9. halogrinder

    halogrinder Full Access Member

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    uh..... low visibility wants lights very low.....

    Ever heard of fog lights? lol

    If you want to blind your view, get those lights nice and high so it will illuminate the fog/mist/whatever lol
     
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  10. Robtor310

    Robtor310 FRF Addict

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    Halo, do you think itll hit the exhaust?
     

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