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Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
Anyone got a write up for fox 3.0 coil over installation?
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<blockquote data-quote="sj-CHI" data-source="post: 1146960" data-attributes="member: 965"><p>I just finished installing my Fox 3.0's. It's not an overly difficult project but it is definitely one where a second pair of hands will help. Stuff on the front of these trucks is just heavy and getting the old shocks out and new ones in takes some coaxing. </p><p></p><p>The shocks are a piece of art and I owe a big thanks to Josh from Alamo Truck Gear for sourcing the goods for me. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269443[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269444[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Before getting started measure you current height for reference purposes. I measured up to the bottom of the wheel well keeping my tape lined up with the center cap of the wheel. </p><p></p><p>My process (fronts):</p><p>1. Remove front tire. I put a 6 ton jack stand on the frame for safety and you will need to move the lower control arm up and down with your jack. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269445[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>2. Disconnect the vacuum line, brake line and wheel sensor from their respective zip tie locations. You will need the slack. Make sure to loosen all three. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269446[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>3. Remove the top three nuts above the shock bucket -- NOT the center nut!</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269447[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>4. Remove and save the nut/bolt on the lower control arm. This will take a breaker bar with a 27mm socket. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269448[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>5. Disconnect Tie Rod, upper control arm from spindle, and sway bar. At this point you will also need to find a way to brace the knuckle from drooping too far. I tied a length of line around the end of the spindle up to the upper control arm attachment point. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269449[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269450[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>6. Swing the knuckle towards the back of the truck and work the old shock out of place. Keep an eye on all your lines that none get pinched or stretched too far. I worked the lower part of the shock out carefully with a large screw driver covered with a towel. Take the shock and spacers and set them aside. You will not need the spacers. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269451[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>8. Install the new shock making sure that the external reservoir hose faces the front of the truck (L and R version of the shocks). I kept the plastic wrap and foam on mine to protect it during install. The shock will slide into the bucket and you can begin to thread but not tighten the grade 8 bolts provided by Fox. Then focus on getting the lower part into the control arm. Again this takes some coaxing and careful alignment of the lower. Once in, tighten the three bolts on top of the shock and torque to 24 ft lbs. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269452[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269453[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I put a floor jack under the control arm to help align the hole in the lower arm and insert the OEM bolt and nut. This get torqued to 406 ft lbs. </p><p></p><p>9. Reconnect the upper control arm, sway bar link, and tie rod. All get torqued to 85 ft lbs. </p><p></p><p>10. Install the clamp in the frame forward of the shock assembly. And then attach the reservoir with the supplied hose clamps (note, I plan to upgrade the clamps to t-type for some extra insurance). </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269454[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]269455[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Tire on, torque to 150 ft lbs. </p><p></p><p>The rears are much easier but you once again brace the truck on the frame as you will need to allow the axle to droop. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sj-CHI, post: 1146960, member: 965"] I just finished installing my Fox 3.0's. It's not an overly difficult project but it is definitely one where a second pair of hands will help. Stuff on the front of these trucks is just heavy and getting the old shocks out and new ones in takes some coaxing. The shocks are a piece of art and I owe a big thanks to Josh from Alamo Truck Gear for sourcing the goods for me. [ATTACH=full]269443[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]269444[/ATTACH] Before getting started measure you current height for reference purposes. I measured up to the bottom of the wheel well keeping my tape lined up with the center cap of the wheel. My process (fronts): 1. Remove front tire. I put a 6 ton jack stand on the frame for safety and you will need to move the lower control arm up and down with your jack. [ATTACH=full]269445[/ATTACH] 2. Disconnect the vacuum line, brake line and wheel sensor from their respective zip tie locations. You will need the slack. Make sure to loosen all three. [ATTACH=full]269446[/ATTACH] 3. Remove the top three nuts above the shock bucket -- NOT the center nut! [ATTACH=full]269447[/ATTACH] 4. Remove and save the nut/bolt on the lower control arm. This will take a breaker bar with a 27mm socket. [ATTACH=full]269448[/ATTACH] 5. Disconnect Tie Rod, upper control arm from spindle, and sway bar. At this point you will also need to find a way to brace the knuckle from drooping too far. I tied a length of line around the end of the spindle up to the upper control arm attachment point. [ATTACH=full]269449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]269450[/ATTACH] 6. Swing the knuckle towards the back of the truck and work the old shock out of place. Keep an eye on all your lines that none get pinched or stretched too far. I worked the lower part of the shock out carefully with a large screw driver covered with a towel. Take the shock and spacers and set them aside. You will not need the spacers. [ATTACH=full]269451[/ATTACH] 8. Install the new shock making sure that the external reservoir hose faces the front of the truck (L and R version of the shocks). I kept the plastic wrap and foam on mine to protect it during install. The shock will slide into the bucket and you can begin to thread but not tighten the grade 8 bolts provided by Fox. Then focus on getting the lower part into the control arm. Again this takes some coaxing and careful alignment of the lower. Once in, tighten the three bolts on top of the shock and torque to 24 ft lbs. [ATTACH=full]269452[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]269453[/ATTACH] I put a floor jack under the control arm to help align the hole in the lower arm and insert the OEM bolt and nut. This get torqued to 406 ft lbs. 9. Reconnect the upper control arm, sway bar link, and tie rod. All get torqued to 85 ft lbs. 10. Install the clamp in the frame forward of the shock assembly. And then attach the reservoir with the supplied hose clamps (note, I plan to upgrade the clamps to t-type for some extra insurance). [ATTACH=full]269454[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]269455[/ATTACH] Tire on, torque to 150 ft lbs. The rears are much easier but you once again brace the truck on the frame as you will need to allow the axle to droop. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
Anyone got a write up for fox 3.0 coil over installation?
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