Complete Brake Make Over DIY

Killjohnathan · May 21, 2014

Guys, I just ordered the R1 concept rotors and pads and the stainless steel braided lines from SQHD. I know NOTHING about brakes, but I am wanting to take on this project myself. I don't mind paying someone to do it, but I would rather do it myself and learn.

Am I crazy for thinking I can replace the lines, rotors and pads by myself???

Oh and by the way, I want to paint the calipers too. Because, why not? :head3:

I will document my trail and errors as I go. All parts should be here early next week.

Any tips or videos that you would suggest I watch or read are greatly appreciated! And if anybody near North Fort Worth (Keller area) wants to come over and watch or lend a hand please let me know. (I can provide the food and beverages) I will know exactly what day I am going to attempt this next week once the parts are here.

Thanks!

155mm · May 21, 2014

You can do it. I'm an idiot and I've replaced pads, calipers, and rotors before. Just read over the procedure a couple times before you get started.

It helps to have a few tools too, I've struggled a lot in the past before I went and bought a breaker bar. Now most bolts are no problem at all.

A tip is that after the wheels are off, turn the steering wheel so you have more room to work and get your wrench/breaker bar in there.

smarsha11 · May 21, 2014

You can definitely do it. I never worked on any of my vehicles until I got the raptor, now I don't like to let anyone else near it. I replaced the rotors and pads about 2 weeks ago with R1 Concepts. Just don't drop a caliper and snap one of your S/S brake lines like I did. :disgust:

That booboo caused me to buy a new kit from SDHQ. On the bright side if anyone needs an extra S/S brake line I have a couple extra. :smile:

TheJoker · May 21, 2014

Great timing! I am also new to this. I have R1 rotors and pads (Freedom Motorsports) as well as custom brake lines waiting to be installed. I look forward to seeing how you make out. Take plenty of pics/video.

The only real advise I have is bleed the brake farthest from the master cylinder first.

Madcowranch · May 21, 2014

Just got my ss lines today so I'm looking for any pointers as well.

pirate air · May 21, 2014

The brakes should be pretty do able for everyone. Couple things I would suggest.

- start and work on one corner at a time. Finish one corner before moving on to the next wheel. That way if you get confused you can look at the other side for reference.

- you can collapse the piston by loosening up the bleeder, use one of the old pads to distribute the force over the pistons, and using a pair of large channel locks, or c clamp vise grips to squeeze the piston back into the calliper housing (to allow for the increase thickness of the new pads/rotors). You can also place the calliper back on the rotor and use a large flat head screw driver to pry inbetween the pad and rotor to collaps the piston. I think autozone also loans the correct tool, but using one of the methods above will work.

- match up the old pads to the new ones as you swap them out. Make sure a identical pad is replacing the old one.

- the front calliper bracket anchor bolts are usually pretty tight. You'll need a breaker bar or a ballys impact. The torque specs should be in my torque spec thread. Use loctite on the anchore bolts.

- you can use a bungie cord to hold up the calliper. Loop one end around a coil on the front shock and run the other hook in one of the brake calliper bolt holes.

- release the parking brake if its set when you go to remove the rear rotors. Otherwise they won't come off.

- you can use a rubber mallet or dead blow to break the rotors free. Or a ballpeen hammer if your replacing the rotor anyways.

- if you have some rust built up on the flange surface that the rotor sits against, go ahead and knock if off with a wire brush or sand paper.

-I would get the pads, rotors replaced and callipers remounted and then start on the brake lines. I wouldn't loosen any of the old lines until then.

- do one brake line at a time and don't lolly gag around. You do not want your brake fluid reservoir to gravity bleed dry while you have a brake line loose and decide to go eat lunch, watch tv, drink beer, pat the old lady on the ass, talk shit on FRF, etc. keep the reservoir topped off as you lose fluid replacing the brake lines. Do not run the reservoir dry or a simple brake bleed will turn into a pita that will probably require the truck going to the dealer.

- zip ties will be your friend resecuring the new lines (especially the front lines) away from the tires. I zip tied my lines to the knuckle and upper control arm and only left enough slack to cycle the suspension. I would pay close attention to securing you lines, both front and rear. The front factory bracket will need to be cut from the factory line.

-Bleed in order, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Have some one pump and hold while you operate the bleeder. Close the bleeder right before the brake pedal goes to the floor.

TheJoker · May 21, 2014

pirate air said:
The brakes should be pretty do able for everyone. Couple things I would suggest.

- start and work on one corner at a time. Finish one corner before moving on to the next wheel. That way if you get confused you can look at the other side for reference.

- you can collapse the piston by loosening up the bleeder, use one of the old pads to distribute the force over the pistons, and using a pair of large channel locks, or c clamp vise grips to squeeze the piston back into the calliper housing (to allow for the increase thickness of the new pads/rotors). You can also place the calliper back on the rotor and use a large flat head screw driver to pry inbetween the pad and rotor to collaps the piston. I think autozone also loans the correct tool, but using one of the methods above will work.

- match up the old pads to the new ones as you swap them out. Make sure a identical pad is replacing the old one.

- the front calliper bracket anchor bolts are usually pretty tight. You'll need a breaker bar or a ballys impact. The torque specs should be in my torque spec thread. Use loctite on the anchore bolts.

- you can use a bungie cord to hold up the calliper. Loop one end around a coil on the front shock and run the other hook in one of the brake calliper bolt holes.

- release the parking brake if its set when you go to remove the rear rotors. Otherwise they won't come off.

- you can use a rubber mallet or dead blow to break the rotors free. Or a ballpeen hammer if your replacing the rotor anyways.

- if you have some rust built up on the flange surface that the rotor sits against, go ahead and knock if off with a wire brush or sand paper.

-I would get the pads, rotors replaced and callipers remounted and then start on the brake lines. I wouldn't loosen any of the old lines until then.

- do one brake line at a time and don't lolly gag around. You do not want your brake fluid reservoir to gravity bleed dry while you have a brake line loose and decide to go eat lunch, watch tv, drink beer, pat the old lady on the ass, talk shit on FRF, etc. keep the reservoir topped off as you lose fluid replacing the brake lines. Do not run the reservoir dry or a simple brake bleed will turn into a pita that will probably require the truck going to the dealer.

- zip ties will be your friend resecuring the new lines (especially the front lines) away from the tires. I zip tied my lines to the knuckle and upper control arm and only left enough slack to cycle the suspension. I would pay close attention to securing you lines, both front and rear. The front factory bracket will need to be cut from the factory line.

-Bleed in order, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Have some one pump and hold while you operate the bleeder. Close the bleeder right before the brake pedal goes to the floor.

Great advice Pirate. I have a couple questions.

*What about lubrication? I picked up some B&C grease ($$).

*Is there anything, maintenance wise, which we should do to the parking brake?

Thanks in advance. :head3:

pirate air · May 21, 2014

TheJoker said:
Great advice Pirate. I have a couple questions.

*What about lubrication? I picked up some B&C grease ($$).

*Is there anything, maintenance wise, which we should do to the parking brake?

Thanks in advance.

You can lube the slider pins for the calipers by pulling the boot off and pulling the pin out and applying a little grease. Most of the time if the boots are still intact the pins will still be well greased but it doesn't hurt to add some. The metal shims that fit on the caliper bracket where the brake pad slides on can also be greased, but in the raptors case I think it causes more harm than good because the grease attracts the dirt and the pads won't slide freely causing un even wear. Factory pad kit comes with new metal shims. Not sure on the r1 brakes. Usually the shims don't wear that much to really need replacement anyways. Some times the pads will have a little too much paint or powdercoat and will need some touch up with a file to fit and slide freely in the caliper bracket.

You can spray the parking brake shoes with brake cleaner and apply a little bit of grease where the shoes contact the backing plate. Once the rear rotor is on you can adjust the brake shoe tension from the rear of the backing plate once you remove the rubber access plug. You can use a flat head screw driver to spin the star wheel. You can see the wheel/adjuster with the rotor off to become familiar with it. It's at the bottom of the backing plate. You want the shoes to barely touch with the parking brake off. If you hold and spin the rotor while the regular brake caliper is still off, you should hear the park brake shoes slightly drag. You can apply and release the parking brake a few times to make sure the shoes are set and adjusted. Other than that not much to do with the parking brake shoes. Most last the lifetime of the vehicle unless a wheel seal goes out and they get oil saturated.

PropDr · May 21, 2014

Replace the lines first; if you make a mess it will not mess-up the new stuff.
Before removing the old lines fill the reservoir to max, place some plastic wrapping over the top before replacing the cap (sealing the reservoir)
Remove the old line and install the new one; one side at a time.
Remove the plastic wrapping from under the reservoir cap.
Place some clear tubing over the bleeder; loosen the bleeder; have a helper slowly depress the brake paddle and hold at the bottom; close the bleeder. Repeat until no bubbles show. Do not let the reservoir go dry! Do the other site. Have a beer

skyscraper · May 21, 2014

DOnt forget jackstands!! Dont trust the jack alone. Think safety.

Doing a random video search on youtube and you will see all sorts of bad habits. Rest the caliper on something, dont let it hang from the hose.

And good luck, its a pretty easy DIY job.

Complete Brake Make Over DIY

Killjohnathan

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155mm

Full Access Member

smarsha11

Full Access Member

TheJoker

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Madcowranch

Genetically Modified

pirate air

will plunder your booty

TheJoker

FRF Addict

pirate air

will plunder your booty

PropDr

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skyscraper

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