wiring question

[RigChaser962]

ok guys, i got my 8" pro sport kc HID's in this afternoon (buying four for the new bumper) when i pulled them out of the box i started laughing, **** these things are huge lol. then reality kicked in with what ive got to wire up when i saw the wiring harness for these things. i talked to KC and the guy kinda rushed me though my questions when i was asking about the harness and what i need to keep and delete from it such as wires, relays fuses ect.

i would like to put my two driving on one upfitter and my two spots on another.

do i keep everything on this rats nest of wires or do i eliminate the relay as raptor has relays already.

please help before i **** this up!

 

[Icecobra]

How many watts?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

pictures would help too

 

[Icecobra]

amps times volts equals watts... A X V =W

To make it really short how big is the fuse in the wiring harness they sent you...

 

[RigChaser962]

35 watts per light. 35/12= 2.91 amps

my dilemma is if i should run the full wiring harness supplied with the lights (rats nest of wires, relay and inline fuse) or if i should cut everything except the hot and ground wire.

 

[AngryBird]

35 watts per light. 35/12= 2.91 amps

my dilemma is if i should run the full wiring harness supplied with the lights (rats nest of wires, relay and inline fuse) or if i should cut everything except the hot and ground wire.

Upfitter 1 and 2 are 30amps. 3amps x 4 lights is 12 amps so upfitter 1 and 2 have enough capacity. Upfitter 3 has a 15 amp capacity so it would be fine too. I'd use their harness but cut the relay off. Its not necessary. Then just wire the Positive to the Red pass-thru wire under the hood (assuming that you have connected the pass-thru wires under the passenger side dash). Ground the negative wire wherever is convenient. I like to run them up to one of the two grounding lugs to the rear of the battery on the inside of the fender.

Birdmans thread:

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f170/wire-raptor-aux-upfitter-switches-20335/index3.html#post345541

Edit-----------

I'd make sure to wire the fuse in to protect KC's (probably smaller gauge) wiring. i.e. if the Ford fuse trips at 30 amps but it only takes 20 to burn up KC's smaller wiring then you have a problem.

 

[RigChaser962]

Thanks angry! So here's a question, why do we cut their relays off? Is it just pointless to have it on since we have them already wired into our upfitter switches?


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[justvettn]

Just don't wire it up to switch #4 it only has a 10 amp fuse and smaller wire.
All you need is a Red wire for power which will go to one of your 4 pass through wires and a black wire for ground. Just use one of your existing ground spots up near the firewall on the fender.
Ford has relays and fuses already built in.

 

[BAJASVT]

If you're only going to run a pair of lights on each upfitter switch, you can use any upfitter switch you want for each pair. Each light draws less than 3A; a pair would draw less than 6A, so even AUX 4 rated at 10A would be fine for a pair of lights..

Get rid of all their harness except for the + and - wires coming directly from the lights.

GROUND: There are many ways to skin a cat and several ways to ground four lights. I would just run all four ground wires together to a good common ground location.

POWER: Take the two + wires from the two spot lights and connect them in parallel near the lights or just run both of them together and connect both to the pass-through wire you want to use. Do the same for the two driving lights and connect them to a different pass-through wire.

RELAYS: Get rid of them... there's absolutely no benefit to using them because the factory upfitters already use a relay.

FUSES: Just like the relays... get rid of them, BUT swap out the factory fuse that corresponds to the two upfitters that you connected the lights to with the proper size fuse. You might be ok with 7.5A fuses, but might trip them and need 10A fuses depending on how KC derives the 35w rating. I'm not sure if KC derives the 35w rating from a standard 12v source voltage, an actual 12.6v static battery voltage, or ~14v alternator voltage output. It's also unlikely that each light puts out exactly 35 watts. Long story short, start with 7.5A fuses for the most/fastest protection and if you blow them, replace them with 10A fuses.

 

[RigChaser962]

i ******* love you guys. no ****. but i do.