TxRaptor6.2
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- Joined
- Feb 25, 2011
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Follow up answers on product information.
Sorry I have been away awhile, but will try and answer all questions with this response. Everyone has there preference, but here is my thoughts on products. When I owned my detail shop many manufactures hit me up wanting me to promote 1-7 year paint protectants. But it seemed although some of the products did work well. Most required you to bring the vehicle back to the shop at least once a year or the warranty would be void. The reason was because the product needed to be applied at least once a year. So buying the warranty was kinda like prepaying for the following years of getting the product applied. Also the fine print would often leave the manufacture a number of ways to get out of paying for damage you were led to believe was covered under the warranty. My solution was to offer the application of the product, but I choose not to offer the warranty. This saved customers allot of money since the manufacture charges quite a bit for the warranty document.
Although Teflon and other "long term" paint sealants are good at protecting the paint. In my opionion they are best used in a cooler climate. Im in Texas and the blazing summer heat will dry out most anything. Which leads me back to the basics. Using a good quality Carnauba wax helps to not only protect the surface, it helps replenish the dryness caused by heat, sun light and use of soap. Ive tried hundreds of types of wax's. My favorite is "Quickor P-79" it is a grade 1 Carnauba wax with durable copolymers. It is not available in retail stores. However you can order it directly from BAF Industries 714-258-8055 or online at www.prowax.com It is sold by the gallon and I think it runs about $45. One gallon should last you for years. It wipes on and off very easy if applied in the shade to a cool surface. I fill a mustard bottle with the wax for easier application. Store gallon inside your house. The heat will dry it out over time if kept in your garage. Also I find its easier to apply wax using an old sock. Just put your hand into the sock and use it to rub the wax onto the finish. Its much easier then with a lager applicator because you have better control over keeping the wax off of textured finishes. A terry cloth hand towel wipes it right off. Unlike many types of wax, this product leaves little to no wax dust. Follow up with a micro fiber towel to remove fine streaks. Also I use the wax to remove road tar, bugs etc.. instead of other cleaners that actually dry out the paint making things stick even more in the future. As far as a protectant for a clear bra, just like any smooth surface, I would use the carnuba wax. I apply this to the front of the truck, headlights etc every few weeks since it helps keep the bugs and crud where it will rinse right off.
If you already have invested in a long term paint sealant, it may actually seal out the carnuba wax from soaking in. But after a full summer of sun and heat. It will begin to soak deeper into the paint as the other sealant begins to dry out.
As for silicone Ive been using Black Magic Protectant. Invisible Glass is a great glass cleaner. Auto Zone and Wallmart carry both products.
Sorry for the novel here. Just trying to cover all bases here. It all seems to come down to the basic concept that as your truck ages, all surfaces dry out. Then it gets harder to clean because mud, dirt, bugs and everything else starts to stick because it is soaking into the finish. Next comes faded plastic, cracked rubber and eventual clear coat starting to peal off because as it dries out it shrinks breaking the bond to the base coat. Watch out for use of wheel cleaners, bug / tar remover, dish soap, solvents etc. They all dry the finish out even more. If you must use cleaners, always rinse of well with water and then wax or silicone the surface.
SVT Floor Matts: I was getting frustrated with trying to keep them clean. Seemed like every foot print showed up on the black rubber. And short of washing them it was not easy to wipe them clean. So I soaked them in Silicone. Ugh, I was regretting this as I wiped access silicone from down in each grove for seems like an hour. But turned out to be well worth it. So far Ive been able to easily wipe then clean with just a paper towel damp with water.
Sorry I have been away awhile, but will try and answer all questions with this response. Everyone has there preference, but here is my thoughts on products. When I owned my detail shop many manufactures hit me up wanting me to promote 1-7 year paint protectants. But it seemed although some of the products did work well. Most required you to bring the vehicle back to the shop at least once a year or the warranty would be void. The reason was because the product needed to be applied at least once a year. So buying the warranty was kinda like prepaying for the following years of getting the product applied. Also the fine print would often leave the manufacture a number of ways to get out of paying for damage you were led to believe was covered under the warranty. My solution was to offer the application of the product, but I choose not to offer the warranty. This saved customers allot of money since the manufacture charges quite a bit for the warranty document.
Although Teflon and other "long term" paint sealants are good at protecting the paint. In my opionion they are best used in a cooler climate. Im in Texas and the blazing summer heat will dry out most anything. Which leads me back to the basics. Using a good quality Carnauba wax helps to not only protect the surface, it helps replenish the dryness caused by heat, sun light and use of soap. Ive tried hundreds of types of wax's. My favorite is "Quickor P-79" it is a grade 1 Carnauba wax with durable copolymers. It is not available in retail stores. However you can order it directly from BAF Industries 714-258-8055 or online at www.prowax.com It is sold by the gallon and I think it runs about $45. One gallon should last you for years. It wipes on and off very easy if applied in the shade to a cool surface. I fill a mustard bottle with the wax for easier application. Store gallon inside your house. The heat will dry it out over time if kept in your garage. Also I find its easier to apply wax using an old sock. Just put your hand into the sock and use it to rub the wax onto the finish. Its much easier then with a lager applicator because you have better control over keeping the wax off of textured finishes. A terry cloth hand towel wipes it right off. Unlike many types of wax, this product leaves little to no wax dust. Follow up with a micro fiber towel to remove fine streaks. Also I use the wax to remove road tar, bugs etc.. instead of other cleaners that actually dry out the paint making things stick even more in the future. As far as a protectant for a clear bra, just like any smooth surface, I would use the carnuba wax. I apply this to the front of the truck, headlights etc every few weeks since it helps keep the bugs and crud where it will rinse right off.
If you already have invested in a long term paint sealant, it may actually seal out the carnuba wax from soaking in. But after a full summer of sun and heat. It will begin to soak deeper into the paint as the other sealant begins to dry out.
As for silicone Ive been using Black Magic Protectant. Invisible Glass is a great glass cleaner. Auto Zone and Wallmart carry both products.
Sorry for the novel here. Just trying to cover all bases here. It all seems to come down to the basic concept that as your truck ages, all surfaces dry out. Then it gets harder to clean because mud, dirt, bugs and everything else starts to stick because it is soaking into the finish. Next comes faded plastic, cracked rubber and eventual clear coat starting to peal off because as it dries out it shrinks breaking the bond to the base coat. Watch out for use of wheel cleaners, bug / tar remover, dish soap, solvents etc. They all dry the finish out even more. If you must use cleaners, always rinse of well with water and then wax or silicone the surface.
SVT Floor Matts: I was getting frustrated with trying to keep them clean. Seemed like every foot print showed up on the black rubber. And short of washing them it was not easy to wipe them clean. So I soaked them in Silicone. Ugh, I was regretting this as I wiped access silicone from down in each grove for seems like an hour. But turned out to be well worth it. So far Ive been able to easily wipe then clean with just a paper towel damp with water.