Rear leaf - different size bolts?

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I went and purchased a 24mm 6 point socket to tighten this up (driver side by the gas tank). I was pretty close to a disaster.

200b1a8899c60e2f846a8d2c5b9e030a.jpg

I then went to the passenger side and its a whole different size bolt and different type nut. I had a 26mm socket for the front bolts that holds the steering rack and the SVC bumper but that bolt is even bigger than 26mm. Haven't purchased another socket but seems to be a 29 or 30mm.

Is it common place for the front rear leaf bolts to be of a different size for each side?

I have WSI HD leafs that were installed by WSI.
 

treypal

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I went and purchased a 24mm 6 point socket to tighten this up (driver side by the gas tank). I was pretty close to a disaster.

200b1a8899c60e2f846a8d2c5b9e030a.jpg

I then went to the passenger side and its a whole different size bolt and different type nut. I had a 26mm socket for the front bolts that holds the steering rack and the SVC bumper but that bolt is even bigger than 26mm. Haven't purchased another socket but seems to be a 29 or 30mm.

Is it common place for the front rear leaf bolts to be of a different size for each side?

I have WSI HD leafs that were installed by WSI.



They're the same from the factory. The nut and bolt are different size heads though.
 

HAP

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Looks like you have aftermarket leafs. Usually, the front bolts are installed with the heads inboard from the factory and most people cut the heads off to get them out to avoid moving the fuel tank and/or exhaust. Replacement bolts used are probably not the same as OEM.
 

TheJoker

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What HAP said. In order to remove the front bolt on the driver's side you would need to drop the fuel tank. Then you could slide it in from the outside, when installing the new springs. It is a lot less work to just cut the bolt and replace it with new one. I bet the driver's side front bolt is not even metric.

---------- Post added at 01:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------

In any case, all of the suspension bolts should have been re-torqued after about 100 miles.
 
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D

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I am aware that this bolt is cut off when the springs were upgraded. What I was not aware of was different size bolt heads and nuts were different on each side. I figured they were the same or the shop just grabbed lily nily bolt off the shelf.

So my real question are these typically the same when going aftermarket or did I just get mismatch odd set?
 

Yukon Joe

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Are you using a combination wrench on one side and a socket on the other? Like Trey said, the bolt head and nut will be two different sizes.

The photo you posted looks to be the correct bolt.
So what does the passenger side look like?
 

HAP

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Looks like willie nilley. Deavers sends OEM replacements in their kits.
 

HAP

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I had to make this to properly torque the 27mm nuts:
So here is what I found my case to be.
After installing my Deavers +2, the front spring bolts are installed with the heads outboard making it hard to torque the nuts properly. I made my own right angle torque adaptor and found that the front bolts were not as tight as I thought. After properly torqueing the nut to 256 ft lbs, the problem appears to be resolved.
FYI, I bought a 27mm striking wrench off of Ebay for $12.00 and bought a 3/4" drive socket from Lowes for $10.00 to get the square drive end from it.
I also found that the rear LCA arm bolts needed a bit more torque as well.
Case closed.
R,
HAP
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