Lowering the rear

[TheWolf]

I read that earlier. So did you only do shackles? Also you said the new shackles dont look very robust? Are they less "robust" than the factory shackles? I don't plan on beating on the truck but I'd like to have a little peace of mind in case I do.

I only did the drop shackles. I would say they are similar in construction to the stock ones. I was comparing them to ones like the SDHQ that are boxed. But like I said, the pinion shims that come with the Ford Racing set should prevent issues.

 

[FP Forged]

Thanks Wolf. The shackle looks to be the closest to level I've seen without changing the front. I wish I hadn't already ordered the 1.5" blocks. I was so anxious to get rid of the stinkbug look that I didn't do thorough research before buying.

 

[FP Forged]

Here is the after pic with the readylift blocks. The wheel gap is still 1.25-1.5" different from front to back but when I put level on the bed when parked in the garage it shows it's level. I may bite the bullet on the progressive front springs and set them at bottom perch. They're supposed to ride much better then oem springs at mid perch. Sorry about the crappy pic quality, I brightened it up so you can clearly see the fender gaps

 

[TheWolf]

Looks level to me.

 

[JDUB]

Most garage floors are sloped, towards the door so water will run out. Usually a 1/16 - 1/8 to the foot.

Not sure how long our trucks are but thats probably why your level says it is sitting level.

 

[TheWolf]

Most garage floors are sloped, towards the door so water will run out. Usually a 1/16 - 1/8 to the foot.

Not sure how long our trucks are but thats probably why your level says it is sitting level.

If you use a carpenters level, you need to compare the bubble location, not whether it reads true level. When my level was on the garage floor, about 1/4 of the bubble was past the line. When I put the level on the running board, the bubble was in the same location. I also checked the door sill with the same results. The bed rail was still a little off.

 

[FP Forged]

Most garage floors are sloped, towards the door so water will run out. Usually a 1/16 - 1/8 to the foot.

Not sure how long our trucks are but thats probably why your level says it is sitting level.

You had me wondering about my garage floor so I measured both the ground and the bed side with my digital angle finder. Here are the results:

Floor

Bedside while truck was on the same floor

 

[JDUB]

I only did the drop shackles. I would say they are similar in construction to the stock ones. I was comparing them to ones like the SDHQ that are boxed. But like I said, the pinion shims that come with the Ford Racing set should prevent issues.

I just ordered the drop shackles from SDHQ. Did you have to cut the bolt head off to get the shackle bolt out? The bolt that mounts the shackle to the hanger?

I just glanced at my stock setup and it looks as though I will have to cut the bolt head off to get the bolt out because of the way it is installed....

Like I said, I haven't spent much time looking at it so I may be missing something.

 

[TheWolf]

I just ordered the drop shackles from SDHQ. Did you have to cut the bolt head off to get the shackle bolt out? The bolt that mounts the shackle to the hanger?

I just glanced at my stock setup and it looks as though I will have to cut the bolt head off to get the bolt out because of the way it is installed....

Like I said, I haven't spent much time looking at it so I may be missing something.

No bolt cutting required. Read the installation steps on this website:


2006 F150 - Ground Force Lowering Shackles - Leveling Kit | FordMuscle.com

 

[daveypetey]

I ran the Ready lift blocks for one year before I bought Deaver springs. I had no problems whatsoever with the product or install.

Hey I'd love to hear the difference in drive between the ready lift blocks and the deavers. Did you go with the +1 with no block?

This maybe a dumb question, but can you or would you want to run the ready blocks and the deavers at the same time?

DP