SpeedJunkie
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Good, that's exactly what I have. Thanks!
Now, I just need to figure out what wire is the high beam wire on the 2018s.
Having high beam switch control
- Thread starter bfr
- Start date
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Good, that's exactly what I have. Thanks!
Now, I just need to figure out what wire is the high beam wire on the 2018s.
K1llD4shN1n3
Full Access Member
Good luck - it was a pain to find the center 3 running lights to tap and the wire Ford runs there is super tiny.
Multimeter and some beer unless someone else already has the knowledge they would like to share [emoji23]
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You only need diode(s) if you have multiple circuits that are individually switched and are also trying to power them from a relay in a combined fashion. i.e., the diodes prevent backfeeds from an individual circuit to the combined circuit. Sounds like your application wouldn’t need any.
I originally had my fog lights wired up to the AUX1 & AUX2 switches, but I quickly realized two things:
1. The fog lights were aimed high enough that they really weren't fog lights, more like extra road lights, although I actually preferred it that way.
2. It was not ergonomic or safe to be reaching up to switch the lights on/off at the AUX switch panel.
So using the info in this thread (and linked threads) I wired up my fog lights to turn on/off with the high beams and it works amazingly well with the auto high beams. No blinding on-coming traffic and no reaching up above. I wired mine up in such a way that I can hit AUX6 and change the mode of the fog lights to operate manually using AUX1 & AUX2 as they were before. Here's a crude diagram I made on a post-it note. You will need a SPST (normally open) relay, as well as a SPDT relay. Both easily found on amazon.
1. The fog lights were aimed high enough that they really weren't fog lights, more like extra road lights, although I actually preferred it that way.
2. It was not ergonomic or safe to be reaching up to switch the lights on/off at the AUX switch panel.
So using the info in this thread (and linked threads) I wired up my fog lights to turn on/off with the high beams and it works amazingly well with the auto high beams. No blinding on-coming traffic and no reaching up above. I wired mine up in such a way that I can hit AUX6 and change the mode of the fog lights to operate manually using AUX1 & AUX2 as they were before. Here's a crude diagram I made on a post-it note. You will need a SPST (normally open) relay, as well as a SPDT relay. Both easily found on amazon.
bwmiller74
Member
Great thread... this is something similar to what I am wanting to do, however I'm not certain what or exactly how to wire it all up. I have a 2017 802A (without tech package). I ordered and should soon receive my FRL kit from 4x4TruckLEDs.com. It will have the KC Highlights, BD Squadron Pro Spots and BD Squadron Pro wide/cornering.
I would like it to work like this, but I'm not an electrical guy and need input/direction and parts list to order.
My plan/desire is to utilize AUX 1 - 4.
Aux 1 - KC HighLights
Aux 2 - Both sets of BD lights triggered with high beam
Aux 3 - BD Squadron Pro wide/cornering
Aux 4 - BD Squadron Pro spot
Also how are you tying into the high beam on the driver side? I understand I need to tap here with a long wire to get the signal for Aux 2. However, I don't want to use a t-tap was thinking maybe best option is cutting factory wire and using a 2 pin weather pack for the signal wire or is there a better option. I ordered single pin weather packs to connect the FRL harness to the Aux Uplifters. Do I need to change these to 2 pin as well to attach relays?
Hopefully someone can make heads and tails of what I am wanting to do and give me straight forward directions... much appreciated!
I would like it to work like this, but I'm not an electrical guy and need input/direction and parts list to order.
My plan/desire is to utilize AUX 1 - 4.
Aux 1 - KC HighLights
Aux 2 - Both sets of BD lights triggered with high beam
Aux 3 - BD Squadron Pro wide/cornering
Aux 4 - BD Squadron Pro spot
Also how are you tying into the high beam on the driver side? I understand I need to tap here with a long wire to get the signal for Aux 2. However, I don't want to use a t-tap was thinking maybe best option is cutting factory wire and using a 2 pin weather pack for the signal wire or is there a better option. I ordered single pin weather packs to connect the FRL harness to the Aux Uplifters. Do I need to change these to 2 pin as well to attach relays?
Hopefully someone can make heads and tails of what I am wanting to do and give me straight forward directions... much appreciated!
If your total draw on all of the lights is low enough to power from Aux 2 then it’s pretty simple. Something like the sketch below would work.
If you are at or above capacity of the 15A Aux2, or if you want the ability to add a light bar or two that pushed you over capacity, then you would need to add a second SPST relay powered directly from the battery (fused as much as you need) and triggered from the relay shown here. The diodes would be as shown here with an additional diode for each switched leg you were adding. If you go that route you might want to move your trigger switch to Aux5 or Aux6 because you don’t need the high amperage to trigger the power relay.
If you are at or above capacity of the 15A Aux2, or if you want the ability to add a light bar or two that pushed you over capacity, then you would need to add a second SPST relay powered directly from the battery (fused as much as you need) and triggered from the relay shown here. The diodes would be as shown here with an additional diode for each switched leg you were adding. If you go that route you might want to move your trigger switch to Aux5 or Aux6 because you don’t need the high amperage to trigger the power relay.
Attachments
I used this style of tap on the driver's side headlight high beam lead. These are my favorite style of tap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
bwmiller74
Member
Thank you so much! You guys are absolutely awesome!
I'm finally starting to grasp my head around it. From the sketch up... I only need 1 (4pin) SPST relay and 3 diodes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PCS-PREMIUM-SPST-40-AMP-4-PIN-RELAYS-AND-SOCKETS-WIRE-HARNESS-BOSCH-STYLE/272925506047?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D44731e1a1d46401b84d5989bd8de6a29%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D272655473152&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850 So from the + wire from each light working back towards the uplifters... the wire will be split one feed going to the diode which then goes to the relay and the other going to the the uplifter/Aux switch. Like the attached IMG. Also could someone recommend which diodes to purchase.
Attachments
bwmiller74
Member
It looks like for all 3 sets of lights the amp draw would be 14.98. Will this be okay on Aux 2? I believe Aux2 is rated for 15amp.
BD lights 3.33 x 4 = 13.32amp
KC lights .83 x 2 = 1.66amp
BD lights 3.33 x 4 = 13.32amp
KC lights .83 x 2 = 1.66amp
One clarification on your sketch...make sure the diodes are oriented to allow current flow from the combined (relay pin 87) side toward the individual lights, not vice-versa.
Just about any diode around 10-15a range with about 45V or more blocking voltage and a low resistance would work. These ones appear adequate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQPMJAW/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
Caveat to all this: I’m not an electrical engineer or automotive expert!
---------- Post added at 02:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:30 PM ----------
Whoops. No, I wouldn’t try powering that much off Aux2. I’d add the second relay powered/fused from the battery.
Just about any diode around 10-15a range with about 45V or more blocking voltage and a low resistance would work. These ones appear adequate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQPMJAW/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
Caveat to all this: I’m not an electrical engineer or automotive expert!
---------- Post added at 02:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:30 PM ----------
Whoops. No, I wouldn’t try powering that much off Aux2. I’d add the second relay powered/fused from the battery.
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