GEN 1 Fuel pump relay fuse blows when key is inserted.

[dc17172]

Problem-

Hey everyone, I couldn't find any thread remotely close to my issue. My truck is a 2011 Raptor SVT with 48,*** miles. Fuse 27 blew about eight times. I first assumed it was the infamous "Fues 27" issue and bought the new relocation kit. I installed it (even went back afterwards to quadruple check my work.) And blew another 10 times. The relocation kit did not fix my issue. It blows the fuse as soon as the key is inserted into the ignition.

History-

I just bought the truck 3 weeks ago and put about 900 miles on it before I started having this issue. I bought it from a friend that I trust. He has had the truck for 4 years and only put a total of 15,000 miles in that time. The previous owner said the fuse blew on him 2 years ago as he was passing someone and has not really "Gotten on it" since. He replaced the fuse then and never had the issue again. I have a new fuel pump on order but I don't want to have it changed if that is not the culprit.

Any guidance is appreciated y'all.

 

[TAC71]

You say it blows " as soon as key is inserted into ignition" ... do you mean as soon as you turn the key to the run position ?
There is the Fuel Pump Control Module powered by that fuse which runs the pump.

Any codes?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

as soon as the key is inserted? there shouldnt be any power until the ignition position into crank

 

[fordfreek]

If I remember correctly, you can hear the fuel pump run when you put the key in the ignition for maybe 2 seconds. I believe my gen 2 runs the fuel pump when I grab the driver's door handle when my fob is in my pocket. Seems like a convenient way to get around a fuel drainback/long crank time issue of years past.
I have heard of people having the fuel pump control module failing due to its poor location in rust belt areas. Or corroded connection at the fpcm due to water intrusion.

 

[FordTechOne]

Fuse F27 does not directly power the fuel pump; it provides power to the control side of the fuel pump relay and to the Fuel Pump Driver Module. A shorted fuel pump should not open F27; it should set a DTC in the PCM. Don’t just throw a fuel pump at it without a diagnosis; the issue is likely a damaged harness or corroded FPDM.

 

[EricM]

If electrical devices "shorted" at the actual rate that people declare them to, this country would be an inferno.

 

[dc17172]

You say it blows " as soon as key is inserted into ignition" ... do you mean as soon as you turn the key to the run position ?
There is the Fuel Pump Control Module powered by that fuse which runs the pump.

Any codes?

Yes sir, as soon as the ignition flap (for lack of better terms) is pushed in. The are no DTC's surprisingly.

 

[dc17172]

as soon as the key is inserted? there shouldnt be any power until the ignition position into crank

Yes sir, as soon as the key is inserted. I could try to upload a video if it would help.

 

[dc17172]

If I remember correctly, you can hear the fuel pump run when you put the key in the ignition for maybe 2 seconds. I believe my gen 2 runs the fuel pump when I grab the driver's door handle when my fob is in my pocket. Seems like a convenient way to get around a fuel drainback/long crank time issue of years past.
I have heard of people having the fuel pump control module failing due to its poor location in rust belt areas. Or corroded connection at the fpcm due to water intrusion.

Thanks for the insight! I did forget to mention that was the second thing I did, after the fuse relocation. Surprisingly, mine was corrosion free. I changed it anyway.

 

[dc17172]

Fuse F27 does not directly power the fuel pump; it provides power to the control side of the fuel pump relay and to the Fuel Pump Driver Module. A shorted fuel pump should not open F27; it should set a DTC in the PCM. Don’t just throw a fuel pump at it without a diagnosis; the issue is likely a damaged harness or corroded FPDM.

Thank you for that insight. I hate throwing parts at a problem but I was at a loss. If I don't have to, I certainly won't. Do you know any common failure points in the wiring? Or do you have any suggestions as to where I should start looking?