I just installed fog light bracket to mount rigid Dually Floods and SAE driving lights. I did the OEM light switch with fog light control retrofit to give some added functionality to the driving lights and free up an uplifter switch. so the dot driving lights are on the fog light switch, and the outboard floods are on aux #4. The way I mounted the mounting plate was by aligning up the plate with the back of the frame, and the lip that is facing inboard. It will give you a nice 90 degree angle to align your bracket to mark you holes. Drill through the frame for the inner bolts, and only half way for the the outboard bolts. I used some 5/16 sized 2 1/2 in bolts for the inner bolts, and 1in. bolts for the outboard bolts. I used some washers, lock washers and nylon locking nuts to secure it. Drill through the entire frame for the inner bolt location, that way you have access to get a wrench on top and socket on bottom to tighten. I also had to widen the holes on the mounting plate to fit the 5/16 bolts. BUT before you tighten it down, install the fog light hanging brackets as you won't have much access tighten those nuts from under neath the bumper after the mounting plate is secured, unless you loosen the headlamp housing to get to the nuts from the top. For the outboard bolts you need 1 in. bolt as there is some kind of fastener protruding on the top inside the frame. I also used nylon locking nuts for the fog light hanging brackets for a more secure connection. Also if your using Rigid Dually the outside bracket need to be installed with the open curved part facing toward the wheel, as the light will not fit the opening in the bumper. for the inner fog lights I installed the bracket with the open curve part facing away from the wheel. This gave me more room to adjust the position of the light for aiming. Once its all aligned I'll put some blue lock tight to keep it all tight. All the wiring was extended where needed with waterproof heat shrink butt connectors, wire loomed, and ziptied out of the way of anything moving or hot. I ran the wires down behind the headlights and across the lower bumper to reach the opposite light.
Inboard bolts through the frame. 2 1/2in. 5/16 sized bolts, with locking washers and nylon nuts.
Outer bolts inside the frame. I picked up the wrong size bolts, it should be 1in. 5/16 bolts, with locking washers and nylon locking nuts
Outer bracket orientation. Curves backwards.
Inner bracket orientation. Curves forward.
Take note that there is little to no room to get a wrench on top of the nut for the fog light brackets if you go from underneath the bumper, so align them and tighten them before tightening the mounting plate. The only good way to get to the bolts is by removing the headlamp.
Ignore the tape and zip ties. it was about to storm and I needed them out of the way until I can finish up the wiring.
Updated: OEM fog light switch retrofit. (pin 5 swithch ground, pin 10 return power for fog status light.) relay switch power from parking lights > relay >grounded to switch (pin 5). Source power, fuse box > relay > to lights and fog light switch status light (pin 10), LEDS grounded separately to body. ( I choose the nut holding the relay box closest to the driver side of the engine bay.) The easiest way to gain access to the switch, is to take a trim removal tool and pry up the silver trim from the bottom and sides, it is just pressed into the dash with pressure fit clips, you also have to pry up from the right to get the silver trim out from underneath the black trim surrounding the gauges. the switch is held in with 3 spring slips molded to the switch. Its easiest to remove both the connectors to the switch and dimmer before removing the switch. When fitting the new pins to the light switch connector, first pull off the red retaining plate with a pick or small screwdriver. It is what locks the pins in place.
Inboard Rigid SAE driving lights.
AUX #4 hooked to outboard Rigid Dually Floods. (brown aux wire to red)
Outboard Rigid Dually Floods
Everything on.