nsdq3
Full Access Member
After reading the vast amount of annoying problems (bracket showing, bracket and or lights hitting bumper, hardware backing out, etc) when following Rigid's directions I decided to try it my way. First of all none of this is ground breaking so not trying to steal anyone's thunder.
Let me say up front, this method might take a bit more time, but the installation came out perfect, without moving the bumper. I have a nice perfectly even gap all the way across and didn't want to **** with it.
Electrical was straightforward, no sense to reinvent the wheel
After about 15 seconds of holding the bracket in place it is obvious that it is just plainly too damn big. You are just asking for trouble have the bracket physically go beyond the opening of the bumper. I cut .250" off of the trailing edge of both the drivers and passengers side, cleaned up the cut and spray painted the bare metal. Much better fit, with the brackets flush with the rear of the frame tube, there is a nice even 3/16" gap between the front of the bracket and the opening of the bumper, and it is nicely tucked up behind the bumper (not visible)
Completely abandoned the self tapping BS. Decided to use 2 1/4" x 1/4 x 20 stainless bolts, washers and self locking nuts by drilling through the bracket and all the way through the frame tube. Also, by cutting the bracket, the supplied holes are now in less than ideal positions. Clamped the bracket in place with a C-Clamp and determined the new best bolt locations. Passenger side in pretty painless, the is one fender brace on the top side you need to be aware of, but picking four good locations is pretty easy, just mark and drill. The drivers side took a bit more care as there are a couple of rubber plugs on the top side to consider. Also, had to remove about 1/8" of additional material from the Rigid bracket to fit the factory plug that has to be removed to fit the bracket.
After drilling simply remove the drill slag from the top of the frame tube and drop your bolt w/ washer through from the top, secure in place with self locking nut and washer x 4.
End result
No bumper adjustment
No self tapping screws to back out
No bracket visible from the front or side of the truck
---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------
Also, forgot to add, there is room between the bracket and the bumper so the bumper could float up and down and not make contact with the lights (1/8" clearance on the outside light and the bottom, plenty of room at the top) or the bracket, 1/8" clearance behind top bumper opening. Pushed bumper up and roughly 3/16" and no contact with any of the accessories.
Let me say up front, this method might take a bit more time, but the installation came out perfect, without moving the bumper. I have a nice perfectly even gap all the way across and didn't want to **** with it.
Electrical was straightforward, no sense to reinvent the wheel
After about 15 seconds of holding the bracket in place it is obvious that it is just plainly too damn big. You are just asking for trouble have the bracket physically go beyond the opening of the bumper. I cut .250" off of the trailing edge of both the drivers and passengers side, cleaned up the cut and spray painted the bare metal. Much better fit, with the brackets flush with the rear of the frame tube, there is a nice even 3/16" gap between the front of the bracket and the opening of the bumper, and it is nicely tucked up behind the bumper (not visible)
Completely abandoned the self tapping BS. Decided to use 2 1/4" x 1/4 x 20 stainless bolts, washers and self locking nuts by drilling through the bracket and all the way through the frame tube. Also, by cutting the bracket, the supplied holes are now in less than ideal positions. Clamped the bracket in place with a C-Clamp and determined the new best bolt locations. Passenger side in pretty painless, the is one fender brace on the top side you need to be aware of, but picking four good locations is pretty easy, just mark and drill. The drivers side took a bit more care as there are a couple of rubber plugs on the top side to consider. Also, had to remove about 1/8" of additional material from the Rigid bracket to fit the factory plug that has to be removed to fit the bracket.
After drilling simply remove the drill slag from the top of the frame tube and drop your bolt w/ washer through from the top, secure in place with self locking nut and washer x 4.
End result
No bumper adjustment
No self tapping screws to back out
No bracket visible from the front or side of the truck
---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------
Also, forgot to add, there is room between the bracket and the bumper so the bumper could float up and down and not make contact with the lights (1/8" clearance on the outside light and the bottom, plenty of room at the top) or the bracket, 1/8" clearance behind top bumper opening. Pushed bumper up and roughly 3/16" and no contact with any of the accessories.
