Having high beam switch control

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bwmiller74

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Will that work with three independently switched light sets? I’d like to see the schematic for it, can you post it? I agree that for two sets and a SPDT relay it would be better to use relays and avoid the very slight power loss from diodes.

I would like to know this too.

However, I think I've changed my mind on having the 3 independent switched lights. I think I'm going to try Flzrider's route, as I can't see any reason to have my BD Spots not on without the high beams.

New plan:
AUX6 - activate all lights with high beam trigger
AUX1 - KC HiLites
Aux2 - BD wide/cornering (for fog/snow lighting)

Question:
If Aux6 was switched on, but not triggered. Can I still switch AUX1 & 2 on at will or does Aux6 have to be switched off?

Flzrider - can you draw me a schematic of how you did this. Like where each wire connects from and to which part of the relays. Just need a clear understanding of where and how everything gets wired.

Slow6 - I should have the harnesses next week and will let you know if they're compatible.

Thanks all - this forum is awesome!!!
 
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SpeedJunkie

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I would like to know this too.

However, I think I've changed my mind on having the 3 independent switched lights. I think I'm going to try Flzrider's route, as I can't see any reason to have my BD Spots not on without the high beams.

New plan:
AUX6 - activate all lights with high beam trigger
AUX1 - KC HiLites
Aux2 - BD wide/cornering (for fog/snow lighting)

Question:
If Aux6 was switched on, but not triggered. Can I still switch AUX1 & 2 on at will or does Aux6 have to be switched off?

Flzrider - can you draw me a schematic of how you did this. Like where each wire connects from and to which part of the relays. Just need a clear understanding of where and how everything gets wired.

Slow6 - I should have the harnesses next week and will let you know if they're compatible.

Thanks all - this forum is awesome!!!

One thing to keep in mind is if you use AUX6 to activate all lights make sure you are not powering them with AUX6. It has the lowest amp rating of all the AUX switches and will probably not power them. You will need to just use it as the trigger in a relay and run power direct from the battery.
 

bwmiller74

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OKAY wise ones!! Does this look right? Seems like I am missing something....
 

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flzrider

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I would like to know this too.

However, I think I've changed my mind on having the 3 independent switched lights. I think I'm going to try Flzrider's route, as I can't see any reason to have my BD Spots not on without the high beams.

New plan:
AUX6 - activate all lights with high beam trigger
AUX1 - KC HiLites
Aux2 - BD wide/cornering (for fog/snow lighting)

Question:
If Aux6 was switched on, but not triggered. Can I still switch AUX1 & 2 on at will or does Aux6 have to be switched off?

Flzrider - can you draw me a schematic of how you did this. Like where each wire connects from and to which part of the relays. Just need a clear understanding of where and how everything gets wired.

Slow6 - I should have the harnesses next week and will let you know if they're compatible.

Thanks all - this forum is awesome!!!

Using my setup, if you hit AUX6 then AUX1 and AUX2 do nothing at all (even if the high beams are currently triggering it or not).

My schematic is probably as good as it's going to get in terms of drawing it out. Most relays will have a little drawing on it that shows you which leads do what. I also recommend to buy relays that include the plastic connector housing and some cable coming out of it. Much easier to work with that way. The only thing I forgot to mention is that you will want an inline fuse on the lead going from the battery (12V) to the SPST relay (see new image below).

Will that work with three independently switched light sets? I’d like to see the schematic for it, can you post it? I agree that for two sets and a SPDT relay it would be better to use relays and avoid the very slight power loss from diodes.

Yes, all you have to do is add a SPDT relay for each additional set of lights you want to be able to switch to auto-high-beam-control-mode. Check out the new diagram below.


One thing to keep in mind is if you use AUX6 to activate all lights make sure you are not powering them with AUX6. It has the lowest amp rating of all the AUX switches and will probably not power them. You will need to just use it as the trigger in a relay and run power direct from the battery.

Correct. However, in my case, i'm only using AUX6 to serve as a trigger line for the relay. Likely less than 0.1 amps.
 

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bwmiller74

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I'm not sure if I have this right. Can some one please weigh in and tell me what to correct if anything.... I added AUX 3 back in the picture just in case I changed my mind.
 

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bwmiller74

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Upon further thinking...

Wouldnt AUX6 connect to SPDT 30 along with the other AUX switches and then pigtail both SPDT wires 87 & 87a to the light. Or maybe Aux6 needs to connect to SPDT 86 along with the SPST 87 wires... I think I made a good diagram and have read a lot about these relays, but confusing myself and probably making this more difficult then it should be.
 
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flzrider

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Upon further thinking...

Wouldnt AUX6 connect to SPDT 30 along with the other AUX switches and then pigtail both SPDT wires 87 & 87a to the light. Or maybe Aux6 needs to connect to SPDT 86 along with the SPST 87 wires... I think I made a good diagram and have read a lot about these relays, but confusing myself and probably making this more difficult then it should be.

AUX6 should be hooked up to the SPDT relay (or relays, if more than one). See my diagram above.
 

NDO

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As flzrider said, your diagrams weren’t correct.

Something like this should work I think. Unless I’m mistaken you can use SPST instead of SPDT since you’re using multiple relays.
 

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bwmiller74

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Spoke with electrical engineer at work and explained what I was wanting to do and he confirmed this new drawing should accomplish this.

AUX1-3 ability to turn on/off lights independently.
Aux6 should trigger all lights with signal from high beams
 

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bwmiller74

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FYI - Coloring of wires in drawing don't mean anything, just makes it easier to follow the path of the wires.

What you guys think?
 
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