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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford SVT Raptor General Discussions [GEN 1]
Jokerz Performance HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit Installed! (Pics!)
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<blockquote data-quote="Reptar" data-source="post: 950069" data-attributes="member: 1883"><p>You can attach more off the 5/16" post on the fuse holder with this kit. It's a long stud so it'll accommodate more wires easily than the factory fuse box stud. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I don't need to even look at your build thread, the simple statement that it's overpriced shows how out of the loop you are on prices of quality materials, excluding even the labor to assemble it, and time to design it to be a direct replacement. It's not hammered open lug ends on bare cheap stereo cable lol. THen your statement on no point to upgrade, you must have a bone stock truck then right, because Ford always engineers and designs everything the absolute best with zero room for improvement right?.....No? You have mods? Hmmm....hypocritical much? lol</p><p></p><p>The simple argument of no point to upgrade when there's nothing wrong with stock....*****!!! Do you troll everyone elses threads who changed wheels, added hood/bed decals, tinted windows, or shit even added an intake or other mods that negligibly do anything for performance beyond a slight improvement, but we still all do mods that are <em>better</em> even if stock is already really good. </p><p></p><p>I haven't seen a single thread guys had to replace factory wheels with methods because their stock ones were faulty, or replace factory intakes with aftermarket because they were faulty lol. No they replace them because it's an upgrade over stock. So just because there haven't been threads where the factory wiring failed doesn't mean it's a pointless mod. The factory cables actually have pretty ****** ends with the copper exposed. While these trucks are only a few years old it's not a problem yet, but over time, the copper being exposed like that leads to corroded wires. Ever have an old vehicle you had to wiggle the cables on to start it? It's from exposed crimps like that. This kit uses all tin plated enclosed lugs, hydraulically crimped, and sealed shrink tubing, so there's no exposed copper anywhere, so these will far outlast stock cables, while reducing voltage losses as well from larger gauge.</p><p></p><p>The factory 4awg cables are sufficient, but they aren't the best. Ford's been using 4AWG cables on their electrical systems for decades. They keep adding electrical accessories stock, but keep the same wiring. While 4 AWG was huge for older less electronic systems, it's only sufficient now. My 15 year old f150 had 4AWG cabling and other than EFI, power windows, power doors, and a/c, and basic speakers, that was about it. The Raptor has the same wiring, but now in addition to those same electrical items as 15 years ago, it also has huge e-fans, heated/cooled seats, way more lights, navigation, factory sub/amp, twice the # of speakers, cameras, then on top of that additional aftermarket accessories through aux switches. So yes, the factory wires are still sufficient, but 1/0 is definitely an upgrade. One simple look at the alternator cable makes it pretty easily seen, when you've got two tiny gauge wires as the alternator cable, then you're running out of room to stuff aftermarket wiring on the fuse box, you're hooking a fire hose up to a straw and expecting to power all these aftermarket accessories through wiring that's just sufficient for stock accessories. </p><p></p><p>And not sure the last time you used a tape measure, but there's almost 9 feet of cable in this kit....so if your estimate of just a foot of able is actually 9' worth, I guess you must also have a 12 foot long ding **** lol. And it's been proven many times that upgrading from the factory 4 AWG battery cables to 1/0 can often pick up around 0.2V which doesn't sound like a whole lot, but when you're talking 12v systems, it's a good improvement, especially the more accessories you add and have on at the same time.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Reptar, post: 950069, member: 1883"] You can attach more off the 5/16" post on the fuse holder with this kit. It's a long stud so it'll accommodate more wires easily than the factory fuse box stud. I don't need to even look at your build thread, the simple statement that it's overpriced shows how out of the loop you are on prices of quality materials, excluding even the labor to assemble it, and time to design it to be a direct replacement. It's not hammered open lug ends on bare cheap stereo cable lol. THen your statement on no point to upgrade, you must have a bone stock truck then right, because Ford always engineers and designs everything the absolute best with zero room for improvement right?.....No? You have mods? Hmmm....hypocritical much? lol The simple argument of no point to upgrade when there's nothing wrong with stock....*****!!! Do you troll everyone elses threads who changed wheels, added hood/bed decals, tinted windows, or shit even added an intake or other mods that negligibly do anything for performance beyond a slight improvement, but we still all do mods that are [I]better[/I] even if stock is already really good. I haven't seen a single thread guys had to replace factory wheels with methods because their stock ones were faulty, or replace factory intakes with aftermarket because they were faulty lol. No they replace them because it's an upgrade over stock. So just because there haven't been threads where the factory wiring failed doesn't mean it's a pointless mod. The factory cables actually have pretty ****** ends with the copper exposed. While these trucks are only a few years old it's not a problem yet, but over time, the copper being exposed like that leads to corroded wires. Ever have an old vehicle you had to wiggle the cables on to start it? It's from exposed crimps like that. This kit uses all tin plated enclosed lugs, hydraulically crimped, and sealed shrink tubing, so there's no exposed copper anywhere, so these will far outlast stock cables, while reducing voltage losses as well from larger gauge. The factory 4awg cables are sufficient, but they aren't the best. Ford's been using 4AWG cables on their electrical systems for decades. They keep adding electrical accessories stock, but keep the same wiring. While 4 AWG was huge for older less electronic systems, it's only sufficient now. My 15 year old f150 had 4AWG cabling and other than EFI, power windows, power doors, and a/c, and basic speakers, that was about it. The Raptor has the same wiring, but now in addition to those same electrical items as 15 years ago, it also has huge e-fans, heated/cooled seats, way more lights, navigation, factory sub/amp, twice the # of speakers, cameras, then on top of that additional aftermarket accessories through aux switches. So yes, the factory wires are still sufficient, but 1/0 is definitely an upgrade. One simple look at the alternator cable makes it pretty easily seen, when you've got two tiny gauge wires as the alternator cable, then you're running out of room to stuff aftermarket wiring on the fuse box, you're hooking a fire hose up to a straw and expecting to power all these aftermarket accessories through wiring that's just sufficient for stock accessories. And not sure the last time you used a tape measure, but there's almost 9 feet of cable in this kit....so if your estimate of just a foot of able is actually 9' worth, I guess you must also have a 12 foot long ding **** lol. And it's been proven many times that upgrading from the factory 4 AWG battery cables to 1/0 can often pick up around 0.2V which doesn't sound like a whole lot, but when you're talking 12v systems, it's a good improvement, especially the more accessories you add and have on at the same time. [/QUOTE]
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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford SVT Raptor General Discussions [GEN 1]
Jokerz Performance HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit Installed! (Pics!)
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