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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
Aftermarket subwoofer install on Sony system
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<blockquote data-quote="Cody Templeton" data-source="post: 1713084" data-attributes="member: 45015"><p>Just figured I'd toss in a longer term update on this.</p><p></p><p>The line converter off the front speakers to gain the RCA inputs to the amp has been working perfectly. If you have a deck that doesn't have RCA outs on it this is definitely a great way to do it. Pulling your accessory feed from fuse 38 in the passenger kick panel works perfect as well, since it's the radio accessory delay fuse so it will work exactly like the stock radio setup does. My accessory feed runs to the line converter to power it on, which then is hooked to the amplifier to power it on. Only reason I changed my RCA ends on the amplifier harness is because I needed male ends to plug into the line converter.</p><p></p><p>It was recommended to use 8 gauge wiring for my amplifier in the manual that came with it, but after running the length I needed to it was a better choice to use the 4 gauge like The Car Stereo Company recommended. Also, your amplifier will govern your choice of what size wire you will run to the subwoofer(s), in my case it was 10 gauge that was recommended in the manual. You may need larger if you're running a longer lead, but mine was only about 3 feet long.</p><p></p><p>I highly recommend a setup with a remote bass knob. Sometimes certain inputs have much more or less bass than others, especially if you're using something like YouTube. Being able to adjust the bass quickly and easily is a huge benefit. I spent way too long custom doing my bass knob between the shifter and cupholders, but it turned out amazing. Only issue is that the harness wasn't long enough, so I needed to order a 4-pole 3.5mm aux cable to extend it to the amplifier.</p><p></p><p>The combination of the NVX VADM1 500w RMS amplifier and JL 12" sub in the truck wedge box is amazing. The amplifier is incredibly small, being about the same size as say a graphing calculator, so it's very easy to mount and hide. Mine resides behind the right rear passenger seat with the line converter resting on top of it. The subwoofer only slightly extends passed underneath the right rear seat, but it's fairly well protected from all sides. If you are alright with trading off for a bit less bass but having a little more room they also offer a 10" sub in a truck wedge box as well, but it was highly recommend to me to use the 12" sub over the 10" one.</p><p></p><p>The only other thing I have left I plan on doing is making a simple cover out of aluminum to hide the amplifier, line converter, and wiring. It's not that it looks bad, it would just look more factory if it had some sort of enclosure over it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cody Templeton, post: 1713084, member: 45015"] Just figured I'd toss in a longer term update on this. The line converter off the front speakers to gain the RCA inputs to the amp has been working perfectly. If you have a deck that doesn't have RCA outs on it this is definitely a great way to do it. Pulling your accessory feed from fuse 38 in the passenger kick panel works perfect as well, since it's the radio accessory delay fuse so it will work exactly like the stock radio setup does. My accessory feed runs to the line converter to power it on, which then is hooked to the amplifier to power it on. Only reason I changed my RCA ends on the amplifier harness is because I needed male ends to plug into the line converter. It was recommended to use 8 gauge wiring for my amplifier in the manual that came with it, but after running the length I needed to it was a better choice to use the 4 gauge like The Car Stereo Company recommended. Also, your amplifier will govern your choice of what size wire you will run to the subwoofer(s), in my case it was 10 gauge that was recommended in the manual. You may need larger if you're running a longer lead, but mine was only about 3 feet long. I highly recommend a setup with a remote bass knob. Sometimes certain inputs have much more or less bass than others, especially if you're using something like YouTube. Being able to adjust the bass quickly and easily is a huge benefit. I spent way too long custom doing my bass knob between the shifter and cupholders, but it turned out amazing. Only issue is that the harness wasn't long enough, so I needed to order a 4-pole 3.5mm aux cable to extend it to the amplifier. The combination of the NVX VADM1 500w RMS amplifier and JL 12" sub in the truck wedge box is amazing. The amplifier is incredibly small, being about the same size as say a graphing calculator, so it's very easy to mount and hide. Mine resides behind the right rear passenger seat with the line converter resting on top of it. The subwoofer only slightly extends passed underneath the right rear seat, but it's fairly well protected from all sides. If you are alright with trading off for a bit less bass but having a little more room they also offer a 10" sub in a truck wedge box as well, but it was highly recommend to me to use the 12" sub over the 10" one. The only other thing I have left I plan on doing is making a simple cover out of aluminum to hide the amplifier, line converter, and wiring. It's not that it looks bad, it would just look more factory if it had some sort of enclosure over it. [/QUOTE]
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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
Aftermarket subwoofer install on Sony system
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