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Damn I wish I knew about the crush delete when I did mine. Seems like it’s the cause of all the problems. Maybe post the link for future use? Can’t hurt

Check your door harnesses. I had a draw from drivers rear door killing my battery. Pretty common for them to be replaced.

Glad you got it sorted. My response was genuine and can’t tell your skill level over the web but based on your questions felt obligated to make you think twice before getting into a bad spot. This is a thick skinned type of forum especially this section. All the best to ya man.

You’re in over your head if you are stuck on that or unwilling to make room to work. Stop now before you run into seized bolts in the head and put whatever you have off back together. Take it to a reputable shop or live with it. Not trying to be mean man but it’s more than a few bolts worth of...

For whatever reason I can’t upload a 15 second clip to the board.

1-7/8 long tube, no clue on comparable brand but if I had to guess I’d say ARH.

Front drive shaft. Remove it and party on

Right on, the set I got had decent enough welds. I’m sure some unlucky bastard will get or got a bad/wrong set. That’s just the way it goes. Will post a cold start in a bit when it’s civilized to do so on a Sunday. Good luck on the install and check your clearances on the passenger side. My set...

It’s not a big deal they break. I did a bunch of front end work and a set of headers back in February. Did a shakedown run, retorqued everything and put the tools away. Took my daughter to drop off her car at copart and noticed the sound of my second purge valve tapping to the beat.

Here’s a broken one. 2 year old mororcraft. Let us know how it turns out.

Purge valve selonoid. Feel it for a pulse. Pretty common and sounds like that. It on the throttle manifold drivers side.

I’m doing my passenger side today. Anything I need to know or do they “pop” out like any ol regular cv?

I did the ones on my 78 cj7 years ago. Not nearly as fun from the sounds of it. It would slam so hard I kinda had no choice but to replace them. Points to you for doing what most people never even think about.

Interval is 100k unless in severe duty cases. That being said your due, 4-600 dollars isn’t obscene for labor you can’t or won’t do. 1000+ is uncivilized.

My original starter has 220k. I’d say they are durable enough. Everything wears out, don’t pay more for that experience on a starter.

Dealerships I think still offer it. I think it was voted the most expensive sticker in automotive history. Call ford and get the wallet out.

Tried to tell ya before you went thru with it. Must have missed my post. Bummer man.

Maybe ford tech can verify what my tuners response was. Apparently the electronics on this won’t jive up with our older ecu’s no matter what tuning device you use.

Nice, are you planning to run it Na or are you adding a pro charger or turbo? Maybe this thing tunes better than the bbk somehow? I researched a throttle body when I first bought the truck. Didn’t seem worth the hassle. It would however be cool to see something positive even if minimal. I don’t...

Well everything is on and muffler welded. I opted for an old man can. Truck does sound pretty wicked straight piped but it’s not for me anymore, lost its luster before I made it to the exhaust shop. Couple things to know about these if you do find a set. They have no cats, no head bolts, couple...

Checking back in here, we’re installing these today. My truck is at 220k miles so it’s been a chore to get everything out, not that it’s reported to be easy at 1000 miles either. The headers themselves arent made half as bad as I expected. Ports are clean and the welds are acceptable. They fit...

Couple months back I bought a set of severe duty front pads from ford. From experience our pads have the special ears on the inside pad for piston contact. My question is, when and did they actually switch pad design? The guy helping me wasn’t an idiot and we searched by vin. The part...

Why are you needing a tune? Aren’t you maxed out as it is? With your set up I wouldn’t use any other than livernois or a custom dyno session with a 6r guru.

You’re in waters few have explored with that setup. I would make sure whatever they tapped into can handle the additional load in addition to the connections themselves. I’m not the best electrical guy by any means but I think you’re on the right track. I’d stick on the electrical path after...

Well of course you don’t. Your shop that you trusted to do your work ****** you. Take it back explain the situation and make them assemble it before you end up with more metal wearing out asap. It’s a no brainer,and for us to sit here and argue back and forth is a waste of time. If you insist on...