I have a mystery switch on my 2013. It is a temporary on switch, not an on-off switch. It’s grounded to the parking brake bracket and powered by a direct tap into the fuse box. Can’t follow the wires in their entirety so I can’t figure out what it’s for.
Your calculations are too full of variables even if there were no errors in calculating gallons of gas used. Driving conditions change, weather conditions change, payload weight changes, road conditions change and all these affect mileage not to mention engine performance deteriorating with use.
The time periods you referred to for the two mileage calculations are the same. From May to March is a long time to use for a reference due to possible errors in gallons bought and remembering exact driving conditions. .7 seems to be within the margin of error to me.
I hate the fact that the Democrats/Global Warming ******** are trying to force this electric vehicle nonsense down our throats under the guise of saving the environment. This is all market manipulation to change the flow of money to green energy speculators at the expensive of the average...
You’ll need to remove the throttle body and spacer elbow to access the back two coil packs. Prepare to bleed and cuss while getting the elbow off. There is a video out there that helps visualize where the bolts are.
I have a Gen 1 Race Red Roush and it attracts people with something to prove like flies to sh-t. My favorite thing to do whenever I get next to one of these people at a stoplight is to jerk forward like I’m preparing for a launch and then blast the air horn when the light turns green and stay...
The dealership gave me several prices all based on how much stuff broke during the removal phase. Never trust someone who tells you the more they break the more it will cost.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.