Rear diff leaking

[Robtor310]

That’s what I am working on a solution too...

Right handing it out and getting a fresh one.

I just haven’t quite figured out how to get a good bite on it. I don’t want to snap it off at the base of the bolt because then I’m toast... new axle housing. Enormous headache and labor.

I need a good solid bite on the thing.

Depending on the diameter of the remaining EZ out and how it broke maybe you can carefully tap a slightly undersize 1/4in drive 12pt, 6pt or female torx socket on to the stub.

Ive done things like this for stripped out bolt heads and such but like I said it all depends on how big the diameter is and how it snapped..

 

[Gsteve]

So here is an update.

I pulled the rear diff cover and it became abundantly clear it was the cover leaking.

Number of observations.

The factory cover is so thin and cheap they have to put a reinforcing ring that is torqued onto it.

The factory cover has no gasket. It’s put on with a thin layer of grey RTV.

No wonder it leaked.

So I put on the new cover with nice gasket and torque it down in a cross cross pattern with a torque wrench set to 14lbs.

Don’t you know one of the top bolts the head sheared right off! Not the end of the world I thought..... so I center punch it and run a drill thru yet and crank in a left handed EZ OUT. It starts to back out... im pleased. Low and slow....

Then the back tip of my EZ out snaps.

Now I’m bummed! There is plenty of EZ out shaft remaining. Just the back of it broke off where my socket wrench was.... my drill chuck won’t grab it enough to spin it out and vice grips won’t bite into the hardened thing enough to crank it out. I have to think about how I want to back this thing out and then hopefully get the bolt out In the process.

you have my curse , if it can happen , it will...

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

Regretting not using your warranty?

**** troll , what a useless *** u are.

 

[Guy]

I’ve got a couple of inches of ez out shaft to work with. Just the very end snapped

Depending on the diameter of the remaining EZ out and how it broke maybe you can carefully tap a slightly undersize 1/4in drive 12pt, 6pt or female torx socket on to the stub.

Ive done things like this for stripped out bolt heads and such but like I said it all depends on how big the diameter is and how it snapped..

 

[NASSTY]

Regretting not using your warranty?

It wouldn't have happened if he would've drilled the weep hole.

 

[nh rapta owner]

Regretting not using your warranty?

wtf not him again why why??

 

[Guy]

You know it brings up an interesting topic though....

Sure my truck is covered under some warranty. I don’t really worry about that though.

Part of the joy in owning a truck like a Raptor is doing your own work, within reason....

Obviously if you’re going to rebuild the engine you better have some real resources and tools.... but add ons... diff work... custom audio... all fair game.

Why would I want someone else to have my Fun? Sure I have the money to pay someone but that’s not the point. Most on here probably aren’t financially cash strapped... it’s about the project as much as it is about the results.

Am I right?

 

[Loufish]

That bolt must have been over tightened and damaged during factory install and now you come along and the bolt completely fails....or a batch of bolts not heat treated correctly...

I know it was under warranty, but there's a good chance if it happened to me, I'd be re-sealing myself also...

 

[Guy]

It sheared with a torque wrench properly set. The bolt was so soft... it wasn’t even remotely difficult to drill.

I lubed all the threads prior to installing them too.

Its just one of those things. I never saw it coming. I fully expected to be done the job in an hour, taking my time.

I’m surprised the EZ out broke. I put very little torque on it. I was using a 1/4 inch socket wrench with it. And I drilled the bolt through and through to totally take the tension off the threads. I’m still scratching my head as to why it didn’t just spin right out.

The factory threads must be gummed up, which is what lead to the bolt shearing in the first place.... I plan to sleep on it.

The way I see it I have a few options.

The first approach will be to fight with the EZ out and try to get it free and clear. If I can get rid of the EZ out... I’ll just drill out the remaining bolt and put in a helicoil with JB WELD and be done with it. It’s a low torque nonstructural bolt. That’ll be a permanent fix.

If the ez out refuses to budge... I’ll have to be patient and drill all the way around it until it breaks loose.... one hole at a time with a lubricated small bit and slow speed. Then again on to the helicoil plan.

At this point I don’t see a clear path to salvage the stock threads. If I can get the EZ out removed... I’m not thinking it’s a great idea to jam another one in there when it didn’t work the first time.

In my favor is that there is plenty of room to work.

 

[Robtor310]

If all goes to shit, and you can get the EZ out outta there maybe just drill it out and re tap for a slightly larger thread.

Good luck man!

 

[J DAMAGE]

You can also use a helicoil kit, to retain the stock thread size,