MTF
FRF Addict
Thank you for the answer, Towerhog 
Pinion Angle Shims
- Thread starter LekRap
- Start date
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OP
OP
LekRap
Full Access Member
Ok, thanks. So for my situation (I have a 3.5 degree difference)...your saying a 2-2.5 degree shim is best?
Towerhog
Full Access Member
Heres a short explanation of what you should have.
![Pinion%20angle[1].jpg](https://www.fordraptorforum.com/data/attachments/48/48035-eeb8e4996b4de278d6ae6474346c858e.jpg "Pinion%20angle[1].jpg")
The top shaft you DO NOT want. The U joints are put there for a reason. When the trans, shaft, pinion are in a straight line, the bearings in the U joints will not rotate and therefore will not lubricate themselves. Bearings will fail much faster.
The second shaft is what you want. Both trans and pinion are parallel to one another with the shaft at an angle. You can run any angle on the shaft as long as you don't exceed the U joint angle specs. As stated earlier, FORD allows .5 - 3.0 degree difference between the trans and pinion. So you don't have to have the both trans and pinion at 0 parallel.
I would suspect that yours looks similar to the 3rd shaft. And would require a shim to help bring it closer to parallel.
The last shaft is self explanatory. But if yours looks like that, then you need to get it corrected quickly.
The top shaft you DO NOT want. The U joints are put there for a reason. When the trans, shaft, pinion are in a straight line, the bearings in the U joints will not rotate and therefore will not lubricate themselves. Bearings will fail much faster.
The second shaft is what you want. Both trans and pinion are parallel to one another with the shaft at an angle. You can run any angle on the shaft as long as you don't exceed the U joint angle specs. As stated earlier, FORD allows .5 - 3.0 degree difference between the trans and pinion. So you don't have to have the both trans and pinion at 0 parallel.
I would suspect that yours looks similar to the 3rd shaft. And would require a shim to help bring it closer to parallel.
The last shaft is self explanatory. But if yours looks like that, then you need to get it corrected quickly.
Last edited:
Yeah I'd start with a 2 or 2.5 degree shim. As the springs settle and sag the pinion angle degree will reduce so maybe try the 2 degree and see if that works. That will give you some extra angle to account for when things settle/sag. Going zero degrees means the u joint will oscillate very little or non at all which will induce a wear spot between the cross roller and cap.
OP
OP
LekRap
Full Access Member
Thanks @pirate air and @Towerhog -I appreciate the explanations and though out responses! I think I have a good starting point and way better understanding than I did just this morning thanks to you guys. Like you guys are saying, a 2-2.5 degree shim is a good starting point.
I'm hoping that this small adjustment makes a noticeable difference. To put in the money I have the past month into getting this ride perfect and to get these vibrations and jitters is disappointing.
@Towerhog...was it a considerable difference when you installed the shims?
I'm hoping that this small adjustment makes a noticeable difference. To put in the money I have the past month into getting this ride perfect and to get these vibrations and jitters is disappointing.
@Towerhog...was it a considerable difference when you installed the shims?
Towerhog
Full Access Member
The shims removed the vibrations that I was having at low speed and on deceleration. So yes, these shims made a difference.
OP
OP
LekRap
Full Access Member
Awesome! That's exactly what I'm hoping for! Thanks again everyone for the help!
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