M&R 6" LED Elite lights have arrived!

[BigJ]

Nada, no paperwork or labels on any of the lights and just two wires coming out of the light housing. I don't see any relay or fuses.I wonder what Birdman did for his 20" light and maybe M&R can chime in on the fuse/wattage rating on the 20" and 6" lights.

Hmm...

 

[BIRDMAN]

Amps x volts = watts, or in this case watts / volts = amps.... so using 12v as your voltage, divide the total wattage of both lights and you will know pretty closely what the amp draw is and what size fuse you should use.

Example: IF Each light is 40w. You have 2 lights for a total of 80w. 80(w) / 12(V) = 6.66 amps. So use a 7.5a fuse or you could even get away with a 10a.

Fuse sizes aren't so important for lights anyway because the fuse is really only going to protect against a short to ground and any fuse will blow when theres a short. On a pump or a motor though for example if they begin to strain and pull excessive amperage then you would have a problem of too much power going through the wiring, and the device its self creating the potential for fire.

Sent from my right thumb using Tapatalk.

 

[BigJ]

According to his website, the 6"ers are 18watt. So that's 36watt for 2, or 3amps total for both. The 20" is listed as 120watt, which is 10amp.

If I want everything on 1 switch, I use upfitter 3 with its 15amp fuse, or upfitter 4 and replace its 10amp fuse with a 15amp fuse. If I want separate switches, I put the 2x 6"ers on 4, and replace its 10amp fuse with a 5amp. And I put the 20" on upfitter 3, leaving its 15amp fuse in place.

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Awesome Birdland, thanks for that. Now how do I find the wattage of the lights, since I don't have any paperwork or labels? Just ask M&R?

 

[BIRDMAN]

Detailed item view
LED LIGHT BARS » M&R 6" ELITE REFLECTORS LED LIGHT BAR
M&R 6" ELITE REFLECTORS LED LIGHT BAR
Model #: Elite 18
Power: 18W, 6PCS*3w
Lamp size: 6.1*4*3.8 INCHES
Working Voltage: 9-32V DC
IP rating: IP 68 (Totally protected against dust and Protected against the effect of immersion between 15cm and 1m)
Lumen: 1125 LM
Light Angle: Pencil beam (Spot)
Life-Span: ≥30,000 hours
Length: 6.0 inches


Shipping weight 4.00 lb


So there you go, right off M and R's site. Each 6" light is 18w, and you have 2 of them so a total of 36w.

This is easy math....36 watts / 12 volts = 3A.



So get yourself a 5A fuse and you will be fine. You can also consider that 12V is just a general reference for automotive voltage. Even if you go up in voltage to a normal operating voltage of 14.4V then it's: 36 / 14.4 = 2.5a. The stats on M and R's site don't state at what voltage the 18w output is had. Also, you will only be able to use Aux 3 or Aux 4 because they are the mini fuses which can be swapped out for a size that small.

Aux 1 and Aux 2 are the mini circuit breaker type fuses which I believe can only be had as small as 15a

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Disregard Birdman, thanks Bigj... I'm starting to get this now.

 

[BIRDMAN]

Also to clarify short and simple how the pass thru wires work:

the 4 wires coming from the switches to behind your glove box are already hot and ready to go. The wiring chart is also in your Raptor owner's supplement telling you which wires come from which switches.

As for the pass thru wires themselves, it doesn't matter which one you use. Just choose the appropriate wire - say you hook it up to the red behind the glove box, then just grab the red from under your hood and now that red wire is live. Done deal.

---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------

Disregard Birdman, thanks Bigj... I'm starting to get this now.

whoops sorry i didn't see BigJ already answered your question above. FRF staff is here to help! Damn! lol

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

Thanks Bird and J, you guys rock. So to recap:

1.) The black wire coming out of my lights is the ground, hook that up to my frame or something like the bolt Aarons mentions - Check!

2.)The white or red wire coming out of the light is for power. The will be wired up to one of the power upfitters pass through wires in the engine bay, and then behind the glove box, that will be wired up to one of the upfitter switch "hot" wires (Probably 3 or 4).

3.) Move the 10a fuse from switch 4 to 3, to run the 20" and then put a 5A in for switch 4 to run the 2x 6" lights.

And just to clarify, the white wire (power) from each 6" light will be wired up to the one upfitter wire i designate for upfitter 4. So 3 wires will get pigtailed or soldered together.

Thanks Bird and J, you guys rock, sorry for all of my rookie questions, but thank you so much for helping and answering. I think i'm ready to go. going to get the wiring supplies and hopefully install my hoot mounts later today.

 

[MandR Automotive]

The beauty of LEDs.

 

[BIRDMAN]

Thanks Bird and J, you guys rock. So to recap:

1.) The black wire coming out of my lights is the ground, hook that up to my frame or something like the bolt Aarons mentions - Check!

2.)The white or red wire coming out of the light is for power. The will be wired up to one of the power upfitters pass through wires in the engine bay, and then behind the glove box, that will be wired up to one of the upfitter switch "hot" wires (Probably 3 or 4).

3.) Move the 10a fuse from switch 4 to 3, to run the 20" and then put a 5A in for switch 4 to run the 2x 6" lights.

And just to clarify, the white wire (power) from each 6" light will be wired up to the one upfitter wire i designate for upfitter 4. So 3 wires will get pigtailed or soldered together.

Thanks Bird and J, you guys rock, sorry for all of my rookie questions, but thank you so much for helping and answering. I think i'm ready to go. going to get the wiring supplies and hopefully install my hoot mounts later today.

sounds about right to me.