Created Custom Wiring Harness for Upfitter Switches

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DINOZR

DINOZR

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That look really great, nice work, and I think soldering joints is fine unless put in very rigid situations. I would hate to see you cut that beautiful harness up just to use butt connectors.

I ain't bout that life. If it fails, I'll fix it. But I ain't going back in to un-solder anything. I will do crimps from here on out now that I know it's probably better, and easier to boot. I'll still cover it with Tech flex, and maybe heat shrink to give it a nicer look.
 

JAQ51

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I did not detail this install on the forum, and I only did an ok job at documenting via pics. I bought this 13 new and it only has about 25k miles. The last round of projects was about 8 months of weekends. Full interior removal, a ton of sound deadening, sealed doors, surgical tubing in weatherstrip, dead pedal, 3rd brake light with cameras and lights, a huge, amazingly clean/clear stereo, that I would put up to any stereo (and it started as a Reus stereo, so I know good sound) Tesla screen, full Alcantara interior headliner, a/b/c pillars, seats, console, shifter and accent panels. Painted all dash pieces black. Windshield wiper painted gloss black. Painted door handles, mirrors, xm antenna, full cowl, side vents white. Fender flares, grill, bumpers etc were already done in white several years ago. Added a lot of interior lighting and rewired a race radio, gps and other accessories. Last piece was in the engine compartment, I added a second optima under the radiator and added a battery selector, keyed on/off switch, hot and ground bus bars, added grounds, front a rear quick connect for jumper cables, fuse 27, added sub panel for full time hot, added sub panel for accessories inside. I am sure I forgot things from this round of upgrades, the sound deadening was the best expense and the amount of time sealing and deadening the inside of the doors. The doors shut like a European car and it is virtually silent at all speeds inside, doing the roof was key. Also sealed up 90% of the vents on the back of the cab. There is a inch thick HDPE amp rack also in front of the vents as well. I apologize for hijacking a thread, I will add some pics and if anyone is local and would like to see things in person I live in Laguna Beach, CA. I have only taken from this forum so I would be happy to give something back.
 
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DINOZR

DINOZR

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Quick thought: before I crimp my harness to the 6 upfitter wires in the engine compartment, should I splice each passthrough wire into the corresponding upfitter wire as well? Essentially making all the pass-through wires also live when the switch is activated? Would be much easier to do that now rather than later if I install an accessory inside the cab and need to connect to a passthrough wire in the kick panel. Would there be any downsides to this? Of course, I have to ensure I don't plug two different things into the same Aux swith (one in the cab and one in the engine compartment) but that's easy.
 

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@DINOZR you did a killer job building those wiring harnesses.

Does anyone know of an aftermarket company that builds and sells wiring harnesses like this for our Ford Raptors? Seems like a lot of people could use them.


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