Caring for Paint Treated with Opti-Coat Pro

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

Sounds like you've got a solid plan!

Just a recommendation, I'd skip the drying step if you're going to go straight to claying (which you should.) As long as you are in a garage or working in the shade, the water on the surface will aid in the amount of lubrication for the clay bar, greatly reducing the amount of Detail Spray you'll need to use for the clay bar to do it's job.

Also, if you haven't already, be sure to cruise through our videos a few times before you start. Always nice little tips to be picked up there.

I've been checking through your videos and your forum as well as AutoGeek to get some ideas on the general consensus of how to do all of this by hand. I was going to leave the truck wet to aid as a lubrication for the clay, but I figured the additional water spots (even though I'm under a carport) would make claying more time consuming. We have plenty of humidity down here in Houston, but it's also still pushing 100* for a high, although I'll be doing this wash in the early morning to avoid some heat.

Also, I've been doing some research about Iron-X and was thinking of adding that as an additional step before spraying.

To the group: What's the general consensus on that product? Is it worth my time/money to add that step in before claying?

To Nick@Adams: Why does Adam's not offer a similar product to Iron-X?

 

[Dr_Pain]

I was going to start quoting all the posts that I wanted to put a 2 cents on but it was a mess, so let me try this instead

@ blockdoc, I appreciate the lack of flames because I opted to provide a devil's advocate perspective. I do wash my truck on average every 2 weeks because I live in sugar cane country (enough said), and because I also choose to do rinseless maintenance washes (during the summer days where my foam would just dry too fast). As I had mentioned before I do detailing (as my second job) and have had my share of coatings (OC, CQuartz, 22PLE etc..) and although they make a nice bead and shedding show, in my opinion it is not worth the money. Don't get me wrong, I do like the income but in the end, my clients spend the same money as everyone else on the maintenance package after the fact, except for the waxing (a great saving of $35 quarterly).

OC's claims a permanent coating whereas the others are claims are for 2-3 years.... (provided the paint is not being "molested" or neglected). I did not want to be the one to put a cost on it for fear of having someone go "are you f....ng nuts!!" but as etalian2005 pointed out, the cost of the correction/coating will run you a good $900+.

@ RaptorSV's comment, I like the water blade but don't love them!! The main reason is that the more times you touch the paint the more chances you have a inducing scratches. They are surgical sillicone, but have no brains. If you failed to remove a little "something" off the paint (or if something flies on the paint as you are about to dry), that blade will drag it till you remove it. I do love the MetroBlaster (and sidekick) but I agree that it is not really affordable for the average weekend warrior...... BUT salvation lies in the fact that you can use any run of the mill leaf blower. I personally use a Stihl backpack blower because I already own it, but also have a $50 Lowe's electric hand held one. The advantage of forced air drying is that it get the water out of the nooks and crannies and prevents water spotting in those areas. It also helps avoiding the pesky water in the mirror flying everywhere and spotting you clean vehicle if you happen to drive it before it is completely dry. I normally follow up with a 600gm MF towel and a drying aid/spray wax. The combination is a time saver!! I do love using my foam cannon BUT during the hot summer days (South Louisiana) you can't beat a rinseless wash done early in the morning (in the shade).

@etalian2005 If you buy a pressure washer, make sure its a good one and make sure that you know what you are doing (especially with the monster 3000 psi). As I mentioned before, I use an electric 2000psi power washer. The washing wand actually reduces the pressure to a safer 1600psi (I should use fool proof rather than safer because you can still be safe with a 3000 psi). With the 1600 working PSI, you don't need to worry about damaging your plastic trim or peeling the paint if you inadvertently stay on the same spot for too long (and Lords knows I've seen some doozies!!)

For all those going back and forth about washing in the shade or in direct sunlight..... shade is the best UNLESS you do your final rinse with a dionizer (like the CR spotless or a commercial RO system) which brings your TDS to almost zero.... in that case wash in the sun or in the shade or..... it won't matter

 

[DesaRaptor]

After the final wash, I use Adams Detail Spray while it is still wet. This helps reduce the water spots while I am drying it. I also use large flowing water instead of a high pressure spray for the final rinse to reduce the quantity of water on the truck. I let most of it run off in other words. I got these tips for the how to videos at Adams.

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

@etalian2005 If you buy a pressure washer, make sure its a good one and make sure that you know what you are doing (especially with the monster 3000 psi). As I mentioned before, I use an electric 2000psi power washer. The washing wand actually reduces the pressure to a safer 1600psi (I should use fool proof rather than safer because you can still be safe with a 3000 psi). With the 1600 working PSI, you don't need to worry about damaging your plastic trim or peeling the paint if you inadvertently stay on the same spot for too long (and Lords knows I've seen some doozies!!)

For all those going back and forth about washing in the shade or in direct sunlight..... shade is the best UNLESS you do your final rinse with a dionizer (like the CR spotless or a commercial RO system) which brings your TDS to almost zero.... in that case wash in the sun or in the shade or..... it won't matter

Thanks for the heads up...I already know I'm going to buy a Honda (they just don't quit) and I'll definitely get that 1600psi head. Thanks for the info!

Also, Adam's is currently doing some R&D about an in-line filter on the hose to have a spot-free rinse for your wash. I'm sure it will be a pretty penny, but it will virtually eliminate water spots and cut down on overall wash effort. I'm excited about it...read about it over on Adams forums.

 

[AdamsPolishes]

I've been checking through your videos and your forum as well as AutoGeek to get some ideas on the general consensus of how to do all of this by hand. I was going to leave the truck wet to aid as a lubrication for the clay, but I figured the additional water spots (even though I'm under a carport) would make claying more time consuming. We have plenty of humidity down here in Houston, but it's also still pushing 100* for a high, although I'll be doing this wash in the early morning to avoid some heat.

Also, I've been doing some research about Iron-X and was thinking of adding that as an additional step before spraying.

To the group: What's the general consensus on that product? Is it worth my time/money to add that step in before claying?

To Nick@Adams: Why does Adam's not offer a similar product to Iron-X?

Our Deep Wheel Cleaner serves the same function as Iron-X. We don't market it as a paint decon product, but plenty of people (myself included) use it that way as well as cleaning wheels.

As far as that step being worth it, I'd say it absolutely is if your paint hasn't been clayed in a long time (or ever). It's an extra step, sure, but it will save you time during claying. You'll come out ahead when all is said and done.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Also, Adam's is currently doing some R&D about an in-line filter on the hose to have a spot-free rinse for your wash. I'm sure it will be a pretty penny, but it will virtually eliminate water spots and cut down on overall wash effort. I'm excited about it...read about it over on Adams forums.

Trust me, I've been reading! The main question I have for them is what is the effective filtration rate and production GPM rating on those. I like using my pressure washer and even the CR spotless (a company that specializes in this field) can't produce something that you can put behind a pressure washer. Most have to be attached to your garden hose

I have yet to pull the trigger on a dionizer because of the cost/wash. The efficacy of the resin bed when combined with hardness of the water we have (and the fact that their bigger unit is rated for 300 or 400 gallon production). The cost/wash using the dionized water for a final rinse would be around $5-$7 (depending.... and that is considering that I have a water softner/conditioner). A time saver but a major chunk of change. 400 Gallons for final rinses (even as a part timer) would only serve me for 2 months. So every 2 months I would have to change the resin and/or the cartridge). If memory serves me, I believe the resin bed is about $100.... every 2 months!!

The best systems around are the commercial multistage, which filters, treat, conditions, softnens and dionize..... last one I looked at was close to $9000, and even those you have to change the resin beds once a year or so ($250). You swap less often because they automatically regenerate/backwash through a salt brine.

Anyways..... this was a nice thread hijacking.... Sorry!

 

[Nick@Apollo-Optics]

Our Deep Wheel Cleaner serves the same function as Iron-X. We don't market it as a paint decon product, but plenty of people (myself included) use it that way as well as cleaning wheels.

As far as that step being worth it, I'd say it absolutely is if your paint hasn't been clayed in a long time (or ever). It's an extra step, sure, but it will save you time during claying. You'll come out ahead when all is said and done.

Do you find it necessary for a 5 week old truck with 1200 miles before clay? I'm assuming no.

---------- Post added at 09:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 AM ----------

Trust me, I've been reading! The main question I have for them is what is the effective filtration rate and production GPM rating on those. I like using my pressure washer and even the CR spotless (a company that specializes in this field) can't produce something that you can put behind a pressure washer. Most have to be attached to your garden hose

I have yet to pull the trigger on a dionizer because of the cost/wash. The efficacy of the resin bed when combined with hardness of the water we have (and the fact that their bigger unit is rated for 300 or 400 gallon production). The cost/wash using the dionized water for a final rinse would be around $5-$7 (depending.... and that is considering that I have a water softner/conditioner). A time saver but a major chunk of change. 400 Gallons for final rinses (even as a part timer) would only serve me for 2 months. So every 2 months I would have to change the resin and/or the cartridge). If memory serves me, I believe the resin bed is about $100.... every 2 months!!

The best systems around are the commercial multistage, which filters, treat, conditions, softnens and dionize..... last one I looked at was close to $9000, and even those you have to change the resin beds once a year or so ($250). You swap less often because they automatically regenerate/backwash through a salt brine.

Anyways..... this was a nice thread hijacking.... Sorry!

Hmm...very good points all around. I feel like this is definitely something for a weekend warrior and not a commercial guy. It'll be interesting to see how it all pans out.

And don't worry about threadjacking...it's my thread

 

[Dr_Pain]

Do you find it necessary for a 5 week old truck with 1200 miles before clay? I'm assuming no.

---------- Post added at 09:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 AM ----------



Hmm...very good points all around. I feel like this is definitely something for a weekend warrior and not a commercial guy. It'll be interesting to see how it all pans out.

And don't worry about threadjacking...it's my thread

I'll answer Nick's question for you.... YES!

Claying removes a large variety of surface bonded contaminants such as rail dust, brake dust, industrial polutants, chemical oversprays, water mineral deposits etc.... Once the truck is produced and painted at the factory, it will be exposed to the "environment" therefore will be subjected to all those environmental factors. It will then get shipped, so again will be exposed. Then comes the stealerhip exposure, then your own personal exposure.

If you are about to "prep" the truck, then do it right. Start with a good bath with a alkaline based soap (which helps in dissolving the road grim and also "assist" in stripping the wax/sealant (if there is any) you may have on your truck). This can be (and in my opinion should be) followed by Iron X and another good wash down (you can even use the Iron X snow foam). Be warned.... that stuff STINKS!!!!! Following your rewash (and as Nick pointed out), keep the truck nice and wet and bring it in the shade to clay. Clay all the surfaces, I mean ALL (windows, headlights, bumpers etc... needless to say, not your soft trim, running boards etc..) and use ENOUGH lubricant. Too much your hydroplaning and too little and your are marring the paint. This removes those surface contaminants and preps the substrate for the LSP. Do the "baggie test" to see if you are done claying. I normally follow this with another wash and a thorough drying. A quick dusting with a high quality MF and you are off to applying the sealant. On my truck, I have 3 layers of sealant. Each application was cured for 3 hrs. First application was with a DA polisher on a finishing pad, and the next 2 were by hand. I apply the same way I correct (cross hatched). This provides best coverage and since the sealant I use has microabrasive, it also provides a tiny bit of correction (that's the reason I use a finishing pad rather than a wax pad). I also apply the sealant to the glass (windshield included) and the headlights and taillights.

Please don't apply the sealant to your vinyl decals (if you have any).... regardless if they say won't stain!! Use UTTG or something similar. I am sure Nick has a good suggestion.

 

[Chris's FX4]

Do you find it necessary for a 5 week old truck with 1200 miles before clay? I'm assuming no.

You'd be surprised by the amount of contaminants on a new vehicle. Especially rail dust which is hard to see on black paint. Is it necessary? Not really in some sense. Would I do it? Definitely yes! This way you are sure that these contaminants are out of the paint and aren't sitting there any longer than they should. So yeah, I would definitely do it.

 

[RAPTORSV]

I've been using the water blade for years now, I have never had a problem. My cars are clean by the time I rinse, there is nothing to get caught under the water blade.

The 3000 psi Honda engine pressure cleaner is great, your correct, the Honda is only one I would get, because their engines are so well built. Got mine at Lowes, has brass pump to which is supposed to last longer. I don't understand all this fear over pressure washers, unless someone has no common sense, they should not have a problem.

Getting the Master Blaster was hard, because of the price, but on Amazon it was no tax, free shipping, so I don't regret it. Kind of silly to start getting cheap after buying a $60000 truck.