Undercoating my 2014 SCREW

EricM said:

I don't know if it was an earlier post from me that you refer to with the Mar-Hyde and Rustoleum combo, but you don't need the Mar-Hyde unless you have rust. It's a rust convertor. It converts it into a stable form of iron.

I've started using both on mine. I had the tires off, so I did the wheel wells and all the accessible parts from the wheel well area (frame, bed support ends, outer portion and and top of the leaf springs). Anything that looked rusty got a coat of the Marhyde, then I waited for that to dry and hit it with the Rustoleum Pro flat black "7578". Looks great. I also did the receiver hitch, pinch weld seam on the rockers, and the rear leaf spring hangers & shackles. All of that was horrible on my last truck after 15 years in the salt belt. Didn't even mask anything off- I just have mad spray paint skills. Well, I do actually, but the nozzle and spray pattern are pretty nice on the Pro cans, so it's easy to nicely paint what you want, and only what you want. Not as good as the adjustable tips on Spraymax cans, but way better than the cheapy spray paint cans.

Best thing altogether is to try to find a winter "beater" for the days when it's just wet and salty. That's the real answer to keeping something from rusting out. I'll still drive the truck when there's salt on the roads, but only when it's dry- or at least close to it. The days where it's really wet and they've dumped a bunch of salt just flat out destroy a vehicle. I put beater in quotes because you really don't want to be out in winter conditions with a true beater, or at least I don't. Plenty of FWD cars in the 5K range that'll last you 10 more years. Nice to have a spare vehicle all year too.

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