FRP Real beadlock rings

Just have your own made. Take the normal beauty rings and have them powder coated to match the special edition ones

Hoverp said:

If I could just find some special edition rings !

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Got a new SE set in a box but not selling, sorry. It was too hard to get to let go.

Have a banged up SE set on my truck now and another regular set on another set of beadlock wheels. I am thinking of taking those silver ones and get powdercoated black and make the SVT red for my DD and use the banged up ones for off-roading. The new SE set was for whenever I sell the truck.....

Here is a pic of the beadlock ring on the wheel. You can see the gap where the bead of the tire will sit when mounted at a beadlock. Otherwise, the tire bead would be on the inner part of the tire and the locking ring will stand out away from the wheel and tire. Doesn't look good.



The second pic is the tap size you need to chase the threads. You have to be careful as the wheel is aluminum and can bugger up quickly.




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Chris Crampton said:

Yes I run them all the time. I use good antiseize like Copaslip or BelRay. Tq. to spec and have had no problems. I prefer not to use loctite on beadlock bolts. I did thread chase the beadlock holes and I'm running nicer beadlock bolts. No leaks or loss of bolt tq.

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I'd like to see a pic of your setup. What bolts did you get and what makes them nicer?

I used blue loctite on mine and they haven't really budged in 12,000 miles. Every now and then you get one to tighten a bit, but not much (1/16th of a turn? )


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Yukon Joe [SIZE=1 said:

---------- Post added at 08:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 AM ----------[/SIZE]

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I'd like to see a pic of your setup. What bolts did you get and what makes them nicer?

I used blue loctite on mine and they haven't really budged in 12,000 miles. Every now and then you get one to tighten a bit, but not much (1/16th of a turn? )


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If you are re-torquing the beadlock bolts with the loctite and they move, proper way is to remove bolt and reapply. Otherwise the adhesive-for lack of a better term is lost and the bolt is able to loosen up much easier. Like I said in my earlier post, I have always used antisieze and have never had a beadlock bolt come loose. Neither way is improper to install the bolts.

Here's the link to the Bolts https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0128773 and the Washers https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0128773 there are also silver, black and stainless(I would not use stainless, too soft and sticky for beadlocks) available.

Photo is new bolts in the re-powdercoated OEM beadlocks, Textured silver wheels and gold rings. Kinda going for the old school look when beadlocks first came out.

I love my stainless hardware for my beadlocks. I kept breaking grade 8s and 10s. Had zinc coated and black oxide and still had tons of corrosion from canadian winters.
My stainless have held up way better than anything i ever used just make sure to lube the threads

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 AM ----------

And i wouldnt use loctite on beadlocks fyi. Anti seize much better option

rptr said:

I love my stainless hardware for my beadlocks. I kept breaking grade 8s and 10s. Had zinc coated and black oxide and still had tons of corrosion from canadian winters.
My stainless have held up way better than anything i ever used just make sure to lube the threads

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 AM ----------

And i wouldnt use loctite on beadlocks fyi. Anti seize much better option

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Do you know what grade stainless you used? If not, post a pic of the bolt head.

I wonder if you just had the back spacing machined off the FRP bead locks if they would look ok? It would be cheaper than trying to buy the standard beauty rings if your looking to replace the damaged ones.

Chris Crampton said:

Do you know what grade stainless you used? If not, post a pic of the bolt head.

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a4-80
Grade 8 that came with my TR beadlock would of worked but its a 8.5 rim... And i ran a 15.50 wide tire. Had too much preasure on the ring. Ended up having 1 inch thick flange spacers made. The MTRs have a thick bead so needed to have the spacers machines exact to be able to run 15.50 without adding preasure on the ring.

But the grade 8 bolt heads broke too easily when i was rock crawling and rock took off 3 bolt heads. Ended up machining dimpled bolt head protectors. Now its bulletproofed!

had trim rings powdercoated black. first thing i did when i got it home. pretty happy with the results. just removed them and took them in. (not an issue to drive with them off as long as your not in a situation where dirt, mud or snow will get into the holes)

Chris Crampton said:

If you are re-torquing the beadlock bolts with the loctite and they move, proper way is to remove bolt and reapply. Otherwise the adhesive-for lack of a better term is lost and the bolt is able to loosen up much easier. Like I said in my earlier post, I have always used antisieze and have never had a beadlock bolt come loose. Neither way is improper to install the bolts.

Here's the link to the Bolts https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0128773 and the Washers https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0128773 there are also silver, black and stainless(I would not use stainless, too soft and sticky for beadlocks) available.

Photo is new bolts in the re-powdercoated OEM beadlocks, Textured silver wheels and gold rings. Kinda going for the old school look when beadlocks first came out.

Click to expand...

Anyone know the washer size.. looks like the washer link is the same as the bolt. Want to buy a few extra sets as I am going to be changing tires and would also like some spares in the toolbox