New Wheels new Problems...

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tnsbruce

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So, I go to re-torque the bolts on the beadlocks and I discover that my tire installer decided that it was ok to use a ground down 5/16-18x1.5 bolt that is not fully threaded for missing 5/16-18x1 spec'd bolts. There were 4 of these. Needless to say I have 4 holes in my wheel that are stripped. Wildly pissed about such a ridiculous error - this is not an honest mistake, but pure incompetence, laziness, and negligence.

A few questions for the forum:

1. I am not out of line asking for a new wheel, correct?
2. Do I also make them pay for the powder coating?
3. In the event they do not replace the wheel can I use a helicoil in this application?
4. Can I remove the beadlock ring without the other side of the tire coming unseated?

Stock bolt on left, installed bolt on right...

Thanks.
 

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BOJANGLES

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I think you should talk to the owner of the shop, show him the evidence and tell him you expect them to make it right. You might wanna also supervise when they go to do the work again.
 
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tnsbruce

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Thanks - I need to check the other wheels more closely. With these bolts being so long they go all the way through the lip of the rim and you can feel them sticking out. I did not feel any bolts on the inside of the rim lip, but you are right I should pull them all and double check.
 

IRONMAN

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What Bo said....There screw up, MAKE THEM FIX IT!
Word of mouth goes a long way, Bad business or Great business.
 

RPG

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So, I go to re-torque the bolts on the beadlocks and I discover that my tire installer decided that it was ok to use a ground down 5/16-18x1.5 bolt that is not fully threaded for missing 5/16-18x1 spec'd bolts. There were 4 of these. Needless to say I have 4 holes in my wheel that are stripped. Wildly pissed about such a ridiculous error - this is not an honest mistake, but pure incompetence, laziness, and negligence.

A few questions for the forum:

1. I am not out of line asking for a new wheel, correct?
2. Do I also make them pay for the powder coating?
3. In the event they do not replace the wheel can I use a helicoil in this application?
4. Can I remove the beadlock ring without the other side of the tire coming unseated?

Stock bolt on left, installed bolt on right...

Thanks.

Lets take this 1-4

1. Hell no, that is *********. They need to make this right.
2. hell yes
3.No clue. But you still may be ok. See answer #4 for why you may be ok.
4. Deflate the tire, remove the bolts in a star like pattern and remove the ring. You will not unseat the rear bead so don't worry about it. I know KMC's run more bolts than my wheels, but you still may have a set of holes that are not used next to the holes that are used.

For example, Here is a pic of my wheel. Underneath the ring, there is another set of holes right in the middle of the holes that I did use. So, If a bolt did strip the wheel, in theory I could just rotate the ring to the next set of holes. You may or may not have this option. If you don't, you might be able to re-tap the 4 holes.

IMG_0181.jpg
Also, if you end up getting new wheels or have to remount the tire on these wheels, mount the tires yourself and don't let any tire shop near them. Chances are they have no clue what they are doing when it comes to a real beadlock.
 
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SilverBolt

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Regarding using a Heli-Coil, it depends on how much material you have surrounding the hole and also the thickness of the material the insert will be installed in. If you have enough material to work with the Heli-Coil inserts will be far stronger than the holes without inserts. You can go one step better and use Heli-Coil Screw-Lock self locking inserts. Once torqued they won't back out unless you remove them. Measure the thickness of your material and shoot me a picture. From that I should be able to tell you if a H/C will work. I have been a Heli-Coil Factory rep for 20+ years.
 

BOJANGLES

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Regarding using a Heli-Coil, it depends on how much material you have surrounding the hole and also the thickness of the material the insert will be installed in. If you have enough material to work with the Heli-Coil inserts will be far stronger than the holes without inserts. You can go one step better and use Heli-Coil Screw-Lock self locking inserts. Once torqued they won't back out unless you remove them. Measure the thickness of your material and shoot me a picture. From that I should be able to tell you if a H/C will work. I have been a Heli-Coil Factory rep for 20+ years.

Good guy to know for your situation, tnsbruce.....
 
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tnsbruce

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Unfortunately or fortunately the KMC use all the holes at the same time. I will go over to the shop tomorrow and give them the opportunity to make this right.

2nd wheel all bolts correct - 2 more to go.
 
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