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<blockquote data-quote="FordFanStan" data-source="post: 115627" data-attributes="member: 3669"><p>When I was in helping build 5.4 2valves I dealt with more than a handful of Livernois cnc heads. The cnc work was very nice. They took the extra time to debur edges and little things like that. There were a couple customer service and shipping mishaps, but the product was great. Also a little pricey. I wouldn't hesitate to order parts from them again however.</p><p></p><p>IIRC off the top of my head the OEM MLS gasket is .039 compressed thickness and I wouldn't really go any less than that due to the ease of tearing the MLS during head/block shifting and movement. Of course I'm probably over worrying because I'm so use to forced induction applications. Also if you plan to build your short block and go with an aftermarket piston to up your c/r, depending on how high your pistons sit in the hole, you will want to utilize the thicker gaskets to maintain a minimum quench area of .035 in my opinion.</p><p></p><p>There are plenty of aftermarket engine combinations that can be had for relatively cheap. Boring and and/or stroking are possibilities. You can run a Kellogg aftermarket forged crank (manufacturers of OEM Cobra cranks) in a 4.350" stroke and with a ~6.900" rod that would yield an approx. 345-349ci depending on your bore size from 3.552-3.582". Other than the extra cost of the crank (5.4 forged Ford ~350, Kellogg ~700) this wouldn't really cost any extra because you would already be ordering custom pistons and rods. All the while this new rod length and stroke will net you a tad better rod/stroke ratio.</p><p></p><p>Next you can run a billet 4.415" stroke crank and that would yield a ~351ci displacement with a near standard bore.</p><p></p><p>Then you can looking into going "big bore". I have this application. You can either use Darton wet sleeves or purchase a SHM aluminum block with a 3.7" bore and without adding a stroker crank at all this would net you 358ci. This is more expensive due to having to modify your NVH block or purchase an aftermarket alumi one.</p><p></p><p>Then you can mix the combos.</p><p></p><p>Re-cap:</p><p>3.552" bore w/ 4.165" stroke = 330ci.</p><p>3.552" bore w/ 4.350" stroke = 345ci.</p><p>3.552" bore w/ 4.415" stroke = 351ci.</p><p>3.700" bore w/ 4.165" stroke = 358ci.</p><p>3.700" bore w/ 4.350" stroke = 375ci.</p><p>3.700" bore w/ 4.415" stroke = 380ci.</p><p></p><p>I've seen every one of these combinations run (plus a couple extremely one off custom setups) and to be honest the 358ci and the 351ci seemed the strongest IMO.</p><p></p><p>BTW, did anyone call dibs on your old parts yet Tank lol? FFS</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FordFanStan, post: 115627, member: 3669"] When I was in helping build 5.4 2valves I dealt with more than a handful of Livernois cnc heads. The cnc work was very nice. They took the extra time to debur edges and little things like that. There were a couple customer service and shipping mishaps, but the product was great. Also a little pricey. I wouldn't hesitate to order parts from them again however. IIRC off the top of my head the OEM MLS gasket is .039 compressed thickness and I wouldn't really go any less than that due to the ease of tearing the MLS during head/block shifting and movement. Of course I'm probably over worrying because I'm so use to forced induction applications. Also if you plan to build your short block and go with an aftermarket piston to up your c/r, depending on how high your pistons sit in the hole, you will want to utilize the thicker gaskets to maintain a minimum quench area of .035 in my opinion. There are plenty of aftermarket engine combinations that can be had for relatively cheap. Boring and and/or stroking are possibilities. You can run a Kellogg aftermarket forged crank (manufacturers of OEM Cobra cranks) in a 4.350" stroke and with a ~6.900" rod that would yield an approx. 345-349ci depending on your bore size from 3.552-3.582". Other than the extra cost of the crank (5.4 forged Ford ~350, Kellogg ~700) this wouldn't really cost any extra because you would already be ordering custom pistons and rods. All the while this new rod length and stroke will net you a tad better rod/stroke ratio. Next you can run a billet 4.415" stroke crank and that would yield a ~351ci displacement with a near standard bore. Then you can looking into going "big bore". I have this application. You can either use Darton wet sleeves or purchase a SHM aluminum block with a 3.7" bore and without adding a stroker crank at all this would net you 358ci. This is more expensive due to having to modify your NVH block or purchase an aftermarket alumi one. Then you can mix the combos. Re-cap: 3.552" bore w/ 4.165" stroke = 330ci. 3.552" bore w/ 4.350" stroke = 345ci. 3.552" bore w/ 4.415" stroke = 351ci. 3.700" bore w/ 4.165" stroke = 358ci. 3.700" bore w/ 4.350" stroke = 375ci. 3.700" bore w/ 4.415" stroke = 380ci. I've seen every one of these combinations run (plus a couple extremely one off custom setups) and to be honest the 358ci and the 351ci seemed the strongest IMO. BTW, did anyone call dibs on your old parts yet Tank lol? FFS [/QUOTE]
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