Ailingment cams with long travel?

*I’m aware of the spelling in the heading but can’t figure out how to fix*

I’m gathering the parts for my LT setup so as soon as my shocks are completed I can start installing. I’ve been kicking around the idea of not doing weld washers on the lower arm and doing alignment cams and reinforcing the slots like the SDHQ kit instead.


I have my concerns though about the cam holding under the kind of abuse he truck will see. From my experience a car with really aggressive wheels and a gang of camber can stress the cam bolt a lot and even flatten the detent to where the alignment won’t hold, and that’s a street car.
I’ve seen photos of some LT setups that run cams, I was just curious if anyone here had any first hand experience on how well they work/hold? I’m really trying to avoid aligning from the upper arm.

I'm not full LT built like you're planning, but I've got SDHQ alignment cams and they seem to be holding alignment well so far for me through two TRR events. I mark on them the aligned position so I can quickly visually inspect alignment status. I've got the nicer SDHQ kit (http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/raptoralignmentcamkitswithgrade129metricbolts.aspx), not the one pictured.

But most I see with serious builds rely on UCA adjustments for alignment and weld/delete the lower slots.

The Baja kit comes with weld washers, so that is what they intended.

The SDHQ cam adjuster tabs look pretty chingon compared to a factory one on most vehicles. How hard are you running your truck? @boarder1995x2

I'd go with the welded arrangement. With a LT, it'll hold together and keep things aligned better. I suppose I don't Raptor as hard as some. I've gone airborne a bit at events, but not to the extent I've seen in photos/videos.

“Raptor as hard” lol


I don’t go super hard either. My front end is done and the Baja kits stuff wasn’t much more than sock replacement setup with a reinforced knuckle. As the kids say, you only yolo once right?

I have the SDHQ cams, the upgraded 12.9 ones that @boarder1995x2 posted. I also have the SHDQ double plates and use marker paint to be able to look at them with a glance to see if anything moved. They have been rock solid, no movement or tweaking detents of the cams. I have the Rogue UCA and my camber is around 8, so more aggressive than stock. I've been to several TRR events and Baja twice.

I noticed that SDHQ states that with the upgraded kit you don't have to torque the bolt as much. Hmm, we did it to 258lb-ft per spec. Wonder what torque that is less that SHDQ is thinking here. Anyone?

I might give em a try as I can always weld in washers later if I don’t like em.

I have no idea what the number would be. I’m sure the high number for oem arms is because only the torque setting of the bolt/nut prevents the arm from sliding in the factory set up. With a cam the bolt shouldn’t require so much torque in theory. I honestly don’t use a torque wrench on anything other than heads/rods/mains/critical procedures

@Lowlife_raptor @RDFTS The SDHQ HD alignment cam kit made by SPC should have come with instructions which are also available online. The torque spec is 198 lb-ft.

http://spcalignment.com/instructions/86252-INS_WEB.pdf

Vash said:

@Lowlife_raptor @RDFTS The SDHQ HD alignment cam kit made by SPC should have come with instructions which are also available online. The torque spec is 198 lb-ft.

http://spcalignment.com/instructions/86252-INS_WEB.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks @Vash

I actually had these installed at the shop that did the frame swap so I doubt they followed any directions. Fortunately nothing has moved other than toe for 2 years so its no telling what they torque them to or even at all. I know we checked it once with a 250lb torque wrench and it clicked so figured they went to 258, but who knows.

Seems like you have to do things yourself or be there to tell the mechanic what to do, which I know they hate.