GEN 1 Twin Turbo 6.2 Raptor build: DIY Tri-Y turbo headers

Hey Everyone,
Some brief info about me:
My name is Isaac and live up in Alaska currently. Moving to Washington state next fall (2017) to go to pharmacy school; have a M.S. in chemistry (2017) and B.S. in chemistry (2014). I used to be a pipefitter - welder's helper for the plumbers and pipefitters union so I "know how to weld".

I always loved turbos and I built a ****** turbo setup for my 1997 5.4L F150 right out of high school. It worked OK for what it was (modeled after the STS kits) and I did my own tuning to an extent. I got a 2004 STI as I decided to go to college, blew it up, learned how to actually tune, and I had a ~600awhp STI for a couple years.

- Had a 2010 5.4L raptor and sold it since hptuners did not support the trans at the time (2015)
- Have a 2012 SCAB tuxedo black raptor that I'm currently building.

Formalities aside, I'll give a rundown of my do-it-yourself twin turbo build.
I wanted to do a tri-y turbo header config due to packaging and better pulse separation.

First thing is first: I rebuilt the shocks since the old ones started leaking during our crappy -40f weather. I stopped using it as a DD after seeing the shock seals leak in the cold.

Specs
Material: Schedule 10 1.5" 304L stainless primaries and secondaries into a 2" schedule 10 304L stainless merge.
- Borgwarner EFR 7163 turbos with V-band turbine inlet
* 3" downpipes to Y pipe and into 4" MBRP/magnaflow exhaust (added
magnaflow straight thru muffler since the MBRP was loud as f*ck)
* Turbos will have blankets and everything near will be wrapped with some high temp aerogel wrap.
* I opened up the hood vents a bit to increase ventilation. Turbine housings are direcdtly under the vents - maybe 6
inches of clearance if I had to guess
- Garrett 1000hp liquid to air core for intercooler
- Intercooler right before a blow through MAF of either 3.5 or 4" OD (have not decided yet)
* Lingenfelter varimax brushless water pump
- FoMoCo 47lb units (was going with ID1050x... maybe later)
- Turbosmart EBoost2 boost controller
- Aquamist HFS-3 water injection
- Hptuners nGauge
- Hptuners tuning software (tuned by me)
- Aluminum valve covers with oil drain fittings.


Pictures:
1) truck
2) exhaust flangles - 0.5" thick mild steel
3) MBRP 4" exhaust (for ecoboost - "modified")
4) Spare 6.2L longblock and mockup motor
5) Box of macaronis to become turbo headers

Old 2010 and newer 2012:

Got this MPG purely highway after reset leaving seattle to Fairbanks Alaska:

Got some 4130 doubler plates and cam bolt kit for lower control arms.


Installed MBRP exhaust last summer


Lingenfelter varimax brushless water pump for intercooler


PDP mud flaps in gray


Stock exhaust manifolds are 2.3 inches inner diameter before entrance to cats (2" sch 10 is 2.1xx" inner diameter)


Fabrication area... built a welding table finally


3" mandrel pipes for downpipes


Rough mock up of turbo setup

Wow, I'm definitely interested to see how this works out! I've been considering the hellion kit or supercharging.

Best of luck, and don't forget to keep us updated!

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---------- Post added at 01:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 AM ----------

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waddellw said:

Wow, I'm definitely interested to see how this works out! I've been considering the hellion kit or supercharging.

Best of luck, and don't forget to keep us updated!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Oh man it's actually about to happen really quick. I'm uploading like 100 pictures to photobucket.

Been working on the setup off and on during weekends since January.
Manifolds are done.
Intercooler end tanks are done.
Tuning is more or less figured out.

Just gotta do a couple things:
1) Get a pre-scaling of the 4" MAF with no other major changes to the truck using the intercooler and some 3" air filters.
2) Weld then drill & tap the aluminum valve covers
3) Finish plumbing the turbos to Y pipe (I pre fabbed it w/ 4" V band).

---------- Post added at 01:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 AM ----------

More pictures to come here of the fab work.

what local did you work out of?

375

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right on I'm a 488 member

Darthyota said:

right on I'm a 488 member

Click to expand...

Sweet. It was too dirty for me even with all the smoke suckers and such. I was always the dirty guy after work. Polaris/honda shop people were super surprised that I was clean after I shot home to shower after work one day lol

Here's a story:
After concluding that the firing order was 13726548, I proceeded to tack the first piece - I referenced the owners manual (2012) for the order (more on this later)


Built a crude positioner out of a lathe chuck and a wheelchair motor. I didn't really use it for welding, mostly just for making proper lands on the fittings for TIG.





Things are starting to look good here:


Tin foil backpurge special. I don't weld for a living - it was more of a self taught thing. I realize that my gas cup wasn't big enough but we aren't worrying about that here since they are not carrying much weight (EFR turbos are like 14 lbs apiece if i remember correctly. Aluminum CHRA and stainless turbine housing).




Used a filler rod to mock the steering shaft location.




Y pipe cuts

More Y pipe welds


Quick comparison to stock manifolds (drivers side)


Starting to look official!



A little bevel action




Looking good for drivers side....

Passenger side...


---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------

I was having doubts about the firing order since there was some information saying it was either the 13726548 (modular) order AND the new coyote 15486372 order

I actually verified that the order is the same as the new 5.0 based on the exhaust valves opening/closing order and double checked the order in an excel spreadsheet I made to verify my sanity. Below are the results of the conclusion...





Had to cut them aapart because it would have sent exhaust from 90 degree firing cylinders into the same secondaries and it would have royally F*CKED it up and would have ran like shit.


I could not simply flip them around because the flanges are not uniform from side to side. Lucky me I made the primaries hug the flanges as good as I could and I was able to re-weld them to the opposite side flanges. I was DEFINITELY REALLY CLOSE to scrapping the damn thing.

The new pairings separate all exhaust pulses by 270 degrees which is a little more uniform than the pairings I had before using the modular firing order. The picture below has the swap to the passenger side tacked up ready for a couple short welds on each primary to keep warpage in check. In the end the tubes had to be flattened a bit more to provide a balance of clearance and cutting the shock tower slightly to weld a new piece in. More on that later.




Targets re-acquired...



And the two sides after welding




Final pieces going in



Nice Y pipe angles...




There we go!

You sir are an inspiration. Keep up the good work. I hope it goes smoothly!

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