All this audio talk but no forscan info

So looking though the forscan thread. I see the settings to reprogrammed for low level output and de-equalization. I bring this up here due to the audio info is getting over looked in the Forscan thread. From what it shows this would lessen the need for a PAC or other such product. Also with out doing this forscan mod you are still sending a clipped signal.

Yea but you gotta SPLIIIIIIICE!

Seriously- I posted this in the "elevated audio" thread and everyone in there was more interested in having a plug and play solution to get a RCA connector for their amp than getting the best signal and having to do some minor wiring work.

jakeO said:

So looking though the forscan thread. I see the settings to reprogrammed for low level output and de-equalization. I bring this up here due to the audio info is getting over looked in the Forscan thread. From what it shows this would lessen the need for a PAC or other such product. Also with out doing this forscan mod you are still sending a clipped signal.

Click to expand...

ok, I’ll bite.

I’ve only passively looked at the forscan thread, what would be involved in cleaning up the audio signal? A few of us have upgraded the h/w - speakers + sub and amp. How would we proceed?

smurfslayer said:

ok, I’ll bite.

I’ve only passively looked at the forscan thread, what would be involved in cleaning up the audio signal? A few of us have upgraded the h/w - speakers + sub and amp. How would we proceed?

Click to expand...

Yeah what do I gotta do?

look at # 81 on this spread sheet under the common tab he also has a link to the right to the OP thread on another forum. On the sony system you tap into the wires going in to the sony amp. he also shows how to remove the amp as it is no longer needed. I have seen some threads op PRO shop instals and the Op said they were told the sony amp had to stay but from Dan at OEM radio Solutions you do not need the sony crap amp. I took my truck to a local shop and first thing he said was that the signal on these sony's was dirty but they could clean it up with a $700 processor (BOOO) https://www.facebook.com/OEM-Radio-Solutions-304277299911777/

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...iVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

jakeO said:

look at # 81 on this spread sheet under the common tab he also has a link to the right to the OP thread on another forum. On the sony system you tap into the wires going in to the sony amp. he also shows how to remove the amp as it is no longer needed. I have seen some threads op PRO shop instals and the Op said they were told the sony amp had to stay but from Dan at OEM radio Solutions you do not need the sony crap amp. I took my truck to a local shop and first thing he said was that the signal on these sony's was dirty but they could clean it up with a $700 processor (BOOO) https://www.facebook.com/OEM-Radio-Solutions-304277299911777/

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...iVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

Click to expand...

Huh? Common / 81 is the powerpoint time out. Did you mean ACM tab / 81?
0=EQ Selection #0, 1=EQ Selection #1, 2=EQ Selection #2, 3=EQ Selection #3, 4=EQ Selection #4, 5=EQ Selection #5, 6=EQ Selection #6, 7=EQ Selection #7, 8=EQ Selection #8, 9=EQ Selection #9

Not sure what we would do in forscan to accomplish what you’re saying.

About the OEM radio harness / programmers.
Do I understand him correctly; plug the harness in; run programmer 1 and (Sony stereo only): run programmer 2. No more clipping. Right ?
or
more work necessary?

Look near the bottom of the common tab. In the notes on the right you will see (See Dan's post here for a write-up on this)
Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (for adding aftermarket amp without sound clipping)
ACM 727-01-01 xx5A xxxx xxxx
727-01-02 00xx xxxx xxxx
APIM 7D0-01-01 2xxx xxxx xxxx <--- this change required only if you have Sony DSP

---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------

the harness is not for are f150 with dsp he suggests you just tap the wires going into the sony amp

SO... Forscan tweaking, plus some wire splicing, plus an audio signal controller, plus an amp.

I have not studied this enough to comment on the viability, but it’s already looking expensive and over my head.

Forscan = free
OBD2 =$35
1 set of RCA wires tapped in to the the wires going in to the sony amp.
Cut the RCA in 1/2 now you have 4 all ch. RCA price is dependent on quality

You can skip all of the info in RED. If you do the FORScan mod use the low level // flat EQ signal and just add a amp or two. A DSP or preEQ is not a must. Most of the newer amps have good on board EQ adjustments

You could use a JL Audio Fix-86 DSP @ $ 379 It uses a test CD and sets all EQ for you or us a laptop and edit yourself. or 16-EQG7 - Memphis 7-Band Graphic Equalizer / Preamp @ $139 and set it yourself

Most shops are using JL , Audio Control , or a BIT one with a range of $380 to $1000. and they also leave the Sony amp in because of the NAV and they do not take the time to learn how to remove it.

On top of all of this the shops are not making a change to the ACM. this means that they are sending a hi level clipped signal. Also with out the ACM change the Factory EQ Processing is still there. The Factory EQ Processing reduces the bass as the volume is turned up. The high level is not the problem most amps have Hi level in puts.
The shops use the JL , Audio Control , or a BIT one DSP to try and clean the clipped signal up. So with a new DSP it takes the clipped bass limited signal and tries to interrupt what is missing.



What is a flat response https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLtjjqoHpg0

---------- Post added at 01:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------


INFO from Crutchfield (not my go to source but some good info)

Your factory stereo uses preset equalization designed to make cheap factory speakers sound better, meaning that it automatically adjusts the different frequencies, creating audio "peaks and valleys" which can degrade sound quality. It is particularly noticeable when you add amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers to your setup, as any deficits in the sound are literally amplified.

Most factory stereos also limit the bass output as volume increases in an attempt to protect the speakers. The trouble is, even if you upgrade your speakers and install an amp and sub-woofer, the bass output is still limited by your factory stereo. This throws your system out of balance and makes the bass sound muddy and weak

I’m running a 300w Kicker sub in a dynamat wrapped factory enclosure, so I’ve got bass. All 3 mirror vibrating bass. With the speakers Guy recommended, the sound is much improved. I think we could safely take ~50w rms through the new speakers with the right amp, but having factory nav, I am not trying to create more headaches than I solve.