Audio wire diagram for my scab

This is how it is going to look like. Number of practical questions still remain:

- Size of recommended speaker wire?
- Size or recommended power/ground wire?
- Location of the summing device (preferably next to sony amp)?
- Need for capacitor?
- I'm planning not to use remote turn on. Do I need new battery (not going blast it while engine off)?



Did not draw the door connectors, but plan to instal crossovers before the connectors.

All comments are more than welcome. Special thanks to Noah helping me out!!!

Looks good. Im planning a similar install in my 2011 Scab when the Az heat dies down. Are you building the sub box? pics?

Noah would be the best resource here for locations of the summing device. As for Power/ground wire, with only 1 amp, I would think 4 gauge would be sufficient. If in doubt, go with 1/0 guage wire, but I think that's overkill for your design. Skip the capacitor too. I've read multiple posts on DIYMA about the myth of capacitors. The "Big 3" upgrade to your wiring would be a better addition than a cap, IMO.

keep us posted on your progress.

he sent me this in a pm. we have been talking quite a bit.

i am building the sub box for him. i will have some pics later today, i jope

Yes, Noah pretty much helped me out with everything. Same goes with @JanT with whom we are going to take our truck interior apart together and implement this. noah is building the sub box as mentioned above and I 'm anxiously waiting to see pics how it turns out.

This is identical to the build I've had kicking around in my head the last month or so. I've been going back and forth between the HD900/5 or a dual amp setup with a dedicated sub amp. Definitely can't wait to see how this turns out.

Update - Here is hot out of the oven sub built by Noah! Too bad it is going to be a while before all pieces come together.

It's not a problem W1N. I have truck here and i will accommodate your sub Truck has been pretty quiet now cuz i don't have sub in there. Luckily i still have tire noise

JanT said:

It's not a problem W1N. I have truck here and i will accommodate your sub Truck has been pretty quiet now cuz i don't have sub in there. Luckily i still have tire noise

Click to expand...

That is totally fine, the problem is that truck sitting in f***ing Germany an no likely to arrive until god knows when. Yes, and the sub will travel on the bed.

W1N & Noah,
Im in the process of researching out my system and saw by your diagram, you are running the center channel off the OEM amp. I wanted to run the center too, and this would clean up my amp situation. I have a Tru T4.65 amp I will be running active for the front door speakers now. By using the OEM center signal, I can purchase a much smaller 4 channel amp and run 2 channels for the r. door midbass and 2 bridged for the subs.
Questions (for Noah);

1. how will running the center channel off the oem amp and not through the processor affect time alignment?
2. I assume the OEM center channel signal mono (or summed)? Wondering about how clean and the freq range of the OEM center channel signal too.

I know Noah doesnt care for a center channel in his truck, but it works well in the wife's car. I have a 4" Morel Hybrid ovation coax left over from the wife's car install that I think will make a nice center channel speaker. I used the other one in her car for the center using a RF 3 sixty.2 processor (a few years back).

sq systems do not use a center channel speaker, however you can use on if you wish. the problem is the center channel speaker sounds terrible. so i do not advise it. instead use a processor with time alignment if you want to use it then make sure to get a good speaker in there. as far as time alignment, there is no distinction between right and left so it will be difficult to tune